Taking the local train, Mongolia
Wednesday, May 2nd, 2007I turn to Batjargal’s worker and ask him if he wants me to move so he can take a rest. We’ve cleared out our compartment of the Chinese after a brief standoff. This is a Mongolian train and there’s little they can do but move or fight, and the Mongolians are bigger.
Batjargal interrupts and says, “He doesn’t want to sleep, he only wants to drink vodka.” This is true and so it begins. I’ve brought two unpalatable Korean drafts with me and am drinking them openly until Batjargal tells me the police are coming and to hide my beers. “People are drinking too much vodka in this country. Is big problem.” He cuffs his hands to let me know what might happen if you’re caught drinking in public.
The Gobi desert is desolate. It’s flat and there’s nothing but the occasional camel. The sun slowly sets and the vodka train chugs on. I wake up at 1:00 and the Chinese are smoking again. The train felt packed when we boarded at 4pm but now the boxes and bags have been stored away and everyone has found his little corner to sleep. At 3am I wake up and look out the window and the first thing I se is the Milky Way shimmering brightly, even through the dust covered window. The sun comes up and I don’t miss Beijing.
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