Dharma bums

So we picked up our bikes first thing Friday morning. We’d already made a last minute run to the Russian Market to get (fake designer) cheap boots and backpacks for our road trip. We planned to go north, near the Thai border to Preah Vihear, then on to Siem Reap and the Angor temples. Our trip would cover hundreds of miles over several days. We were looking for the “other” Cambodia and for adventure. Over the next few days, we would find out if we were ready for it.

The adventure began when we faced driving in Phnom Penh traffic for the first time. It’s not like driving in Kansas…we were part of a mass of motorbikes, hand carts, trucks, SUVs and bicycles moving together at multiple speeds and in different directions. We gotten some tips at the bike shop: “don’t stop if a policeman tries to pull you over – just keep going – or you’ll have to pay a bribe”…”don’t get in an accident – it will always be your fault because you are a foreigner”…”watch out for oncoming, bigger vehicles passing on your side of the road – they won’t try to get back on their side – you have to get out of their way”…”the bigger vehicle has the right of way.” Neil told us to keep our eyes on what’s in front of us – “don’t look back, it’s just like skiing – it’s the responsibility of the driver behind you to watch/anticipate for you.” I guess the coaching worked. We made it out of the city.

For the next few hours we motored up Route 6 through beautiful country, with houses on stilts, flat open fields that would be flooded rice paddies in the rainy season, and periodic small “towns.” The roads were paved and traffic was not too bad. Water buffalos, cows, and chickens were as big a road hazzard as the on-rushing trucks. It was great fun and Normano set a fast pace (90-110 km/hr).

After a couple of hours, we stopped for lunch in Kompong Thom at Arunras Restaurant. The town is the provincial capital and a mid-way point between Phnom Penh. While in town, we replenished our gas and water supply. “Get gas whenever you can” was another piece of advice we got at the bike shop.

We were now ready for the Road Less Traveled. There was a fork in the road just north of town. Route 6 continued towards Siem Reap on one fork…a nice paved road. The other, soon to be dirt, dust, and gravel, headed towards Tbeng Meanchey, our destination. We had another 150 km ahead of us and we wanted to reach it before nightfall.

We were certainly headed towards the “other” Cambodia. Cars, motorcycles and towns were now few and far between. We put on surgical masks to combat the dust of the road. Children would come out and wave when we would come roaring through the occasional little towns. It was hot, but we stayed cool as long as we were moving.

Then adventure found us. Coming up upon a bridge, Don skidded in some gravel and went down. The Dharma Bums were relieved to find that nothing was broken, but he had a deep cut on his left knee (gruesome picture) and an even deeper cut on his left elbow. We were out in the middle of nowhere on a dirt road, hours from a doctor, and it was just the first day of our trip. We decided “nothing broken or spurting, no need to turn around.” Neil took charge, washing the wounds with bottled water, and stopping the bleeding by wrapping knee and elbow with traditional Cambodian scarves. Norm dispensed the ibuprphon. We headed on towards Tbeng Meanchey.

A little later, adventure found us again! Going across a wooden bridge, the back of Norm’s bike went down in a 3-foot hole in the bridge, scrapping his shin and punishing his ankle. He’d seen the hole just before he hit it, and had accelerated enough to get the front of the bike past it. Again we stopped, regrouped, passed out the ibuprophin, and pushed on.

We reached our destination near sundown. Neil found a hotel and negotiated good rates. The rooms were rough, but each had a shower and and tv. Neil went looking for medical supplies while we cleaned up. We had wounds to wash and were covered in dust (Norm, Bernie, Don). That night we had dinner in an open air “restaurant” while we drank beer and watched ESPN Asia on the satelite tv.

The next mornin brought a new day. Children passed by our hotel on their way to school, people went about their business, and the main street was getting paved. Neil cleaned the bikes and suggested that we change our plans and head towards Siem Reap rather than push farther north to the Thai border. We’d visit some temples along the way and be able to get Don to a doctor.

Tags: Cambodia, Motorcycle, Travel

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