Dharma bums

Wednesday, Normano and I said our goodbyes to the staff of the Lighthouse and the few guests we knew, arranged for a shuttle into town and were packing our bags to head to the ferry that would take us to Chumphon via Ko Tao when Normano asked me what day it was. We were leaving a day earlier than we needed to! (it is easy to lose track of reality while on vacation). Instead of trying to coax Carla, the manager at Lighthouse, to allow us to stay another night we decided to take the ferry to Ko Tao and spend the night there.

The ferry, a sleek catamaran with airline like seating, was nearly filled to its 250 passenger capacity. The ride was fairly smooth given the choppy sea and rainy weather. It was still raining when we landed but there was an internet cafe right across the street from the ferry station where we occupied ourselves until the rain stopped. After walking a short distance south along the now muddy street we were able to locate a very pleasant resort right on the beach. We checked in to the Sensi Paradise, drank a beer, took a 2 hour nap and then began our next quest. We were looking for authentic Thai street food for our supper, what we found was maybe even better than we had hoped. After walking aways along a street lined with restaraunts and the occasional food cart, I spotted a tent like structure with the words Food Center printed on it. Under the tent were two women who spoke almost no English but boy could they cook. I sampled a hot squid salad that was excellent but I ended up ordering a cashew chicken stir-fry. Normano was feeling brave and ordered a black egg stir fry dish and a green mango salad. Having absolutely no idea what a black egg was, we were curious. The black eggs were bright pink, at least the shells of the hard-boiled eggs were pink. Inside that pink shell the contents was indeed a black egg. Two eggs were halved and added to the stir-fry, by the time it was served the the texture was almost gelatinous. I have no idea what bird a black egg comes from but it tasted much like I would expect a hard-boiled, stir-fried hens egg to taste.

After dinner we took a hike down the road, going north to the next town and another beach. We made a turn and started walking back along a narrow lane that more-or-less parallels the beach, there was much more to see along this route. We came upon a rather unique “Car Bar”, it was an old van converted into a bar. One side had two openings with hinged doors that formed an awning when in the open position. At the bottom edge of the opening was the bar complete with stools in the sand. Naturally we had to stop and have a beer while we watched the nearby fire dancer perform his act. The fire dancer was doing quite well until he got a call on his cell phone. I guess it is difficult to talk and catch a flaming baton at the same time. Most of the bars and restaurants we passed had few if any patrons. It seemed like there was no shortage of people on the island so it was either too early or they don’t party as much here. Our several mile walk and our day ended back at our resort where we had a dessert that consisted of banana chunks cooked in coconut milk along with a glass of wine.

Because of the rain upon our arrival and napping away most of the remaining daylight hours we really didn’t get a good look at our little island until the next morning. Our resort had a small private beach area with a great view of the very busy harbor. At least three different companies operate ferries in and out of Ko Tao, also there seemed to be rather large flotilla of colorful fishing boats decorated with flags motoring in and out. The beach area that we saw ringed the harbor area and ended at large rock outcroppings at either end. The island is around 20 sq. km., about 1/10 the size of Ko Phanagn where we had just been. We spent a few hours at the private beach sunning, reading, swimming and meeting a couple from Finland by accidentally stealing their beach chairs and towels. We were forgiven when we bought them each a beer and were able to have a nice conversation. We had to end our beach time for this day and for this trip in order to catch the ferry to Chumphon where we would get on overnight train to Bangkok.

Sadly our adventure is nearing the end and our shoe will stay behind. They have suffered the travel and punishment of miles and miles and we thought it best to bury them here. Our shoes maybe wore out but not our spirt…long live the Dharma Bums…

Dharma Bernie

Its 5:30 in the morning and I can feel the thunder of the city as it has been awake for hours. Tuk tuks are busy delivering bundles of fresh produce as well as truck loads of fresh slaughtered hogs, cattle and chickens and every kind of seafood you can ever imagine, all to be cut up, chopped in pieces, fresh and very appealing to the eye or the stomach. This activity is all for the purpose of feeding a society that is hungry all the time.

Thais eat all the time and when they’re hungry. There is not set time for feeding the body and soul. You can see this mind set as you walk along any street or boulevard in Thailand. If there is a crowd of Thais eating, this is a good place to stop and eat. The Dharma bums leaned this from S. on our trip to Cambodia last year. He taught the Dharma Bums the art of finding food in a foreign land and when you think about it, it’s not much different than picking up some roasted chestnuts in Paris. In any country of the world, the street is where the good food is.

The other lesson the Dharma Bums have leaned from their travels, food is the only thing we’ve got going. Old Dharma Bums are not attractive to women and so food or gay guys are our only recourse. And the Dharma bums are not gay, so that’s out.

So food is where the fun and joy is. Exploring the nooks, crannies and secert avenues of a city to find a “home cook” restrauant with a real “salt-of-the-earth” mom in charge, its where the search begins. It’s the place where you can feel that “your mom” is doing the cooking and she will take care of you. Cuddle and support your thrist and hunger. She won’t let you leave until she is satisifed that you can continue your journey full of warmth and energy. She does this automatically. She is all our mothers everyday.

The Dharma Bums travel looking for food to feed the soul. Each day the recipe for life must be baked to be completely fresh. This continuing motion is the wheel of life and soul of the Dharma Bums. Our travels have taken us to Cambodia and Thailand. Each place has provided the substance to continue.

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