Dharma bums

Wednesday, Normano and I said our goodbyes to the staff of the Lighthouse and the few guests we knew, arranged for a shuttle into town and were packing our bags to head to the ferry that would take us to Chumphon via Ko Tao when Normano asked me what day it was. We were leaving a day earlier than we needed to! (it is easy to lose track of reality while on vacation). Instead of trying to coax Carla, the manager at Lighthouse, to allow us to stay another night we decided to take the ferry to Ko Tao and spend the night there.

The ferry, a sleek catamaran with airline like seating, was nearly filled to its 250 passenger capacity. The ride was fairly smooth given the choppy sea and rainy weather. It was still raining when we landed but there was an internet cafe right across the street from the ferry station where we occupied ourselves until the rain stopped. After walking a short distance south along the now muddy street we were able to locate a very pleasant resort right on the beach. We checked in to the Sensi Paradise, drank a beer, took a 2 hour nap and then began our next quest. We were looking for authentic Thai street food for our supper, what we found was maybe even better than we had hoped. After walking aways along a street lined with restaraunts and the occasional food cart, I spotted a tent like structure with the words Food Center printed on it. Under the tent were two women who spoke almost no English but boy could they cook. I sampled a hot squid salad that was excellent but I ended up ordering a cashew chicken stir-fry. Normano was feeling brave and ordered a black egg stir fry dish and a green mango salad. Having absolutely no idea what a black egg was, we were curious. The black eggs were bright pink, at least the shells of the hard-boiled eggs were pink. Inside that pink shell the contents was indeed a black egg. Two eggs were halved and added to the stir-fry, by the time it was served the the texture was almost gelatinous. I have no idea what bird a black egg comes from but it tasted much like I would expect a hard-boiled, stir-fried hens egg to taste.

After dinner we took a hike down the road, going north to the next town and another beach. We made a turn and started walking back along a narrow lane that more-or-less parallels the beach, there was much more to see along this route. We came upon a rather unique “Car Bar”, it was an old van converted into a bar. One side had two openings with hinged doors that formed an awning when in the open position. At the bottom edge of the opening was the bar complete with stools in the sand. Naturally we had to stop and have a beer while we watched the nearby fire dancer perform his act. The fire dancer was doing quite well until he got a call on his cell phone. I guess it is difficult to talk and catch a flaming baton at the same time. Most of the bars and restaurants we passed had few if any patrons. It seemed like there was no shortage of people on the island so it was either too early or they don’t party as much here. Our several mile walk and our day ended back at our resort where we had a dessert that consisted of banana chunks cooked in coconut milk along with a glass of wine.

Because of the rain upon our arrival and napping away most of the remaining daylight hours we really didn’t get a good look at our little island until the next morning. Our resort had a small private beach area with a great view of the very busy harbor. At least three different companies operate ferries in and out of Ko Tao, also there seemed to be rather large flotilla of colorful fishing boats decorated with flags motoring in and out. The beach area that we saw ringed the harbor area and ended at large rock outcroppings at either end. The island is around 20 sq. km., about 1/10 the size of Ko Phanagn where we had just been. We spent a few hours at the private beach sunning, reading, swimming and meeting a couple from Finland by accidentally stealing their beach chairs and towels. We were forgiven when we bought them each a beer and were able to have a nice conversation. We had to end our beach time for this day and for this trip in order to catch the ferry to Chumphon where we would get on overnight train to Bangkok.

Sadly our adventure is nearing the end and our shoe will stay behind. They have suffered the travel and punishment of miles and miles and we thought it best to bury them here. Our shoes maybe wore out but not our spirt…long live the Dharma Bums…

Dharma Bernie

Its 5:30 in the morning and I can feel the thunder of the city as it has been awake for hours. Tuk tuks are busy delivering bundles of fresh produce as well as truck loads of fresh slaughtered hogs, cattle and chickens and every kind of seafood you can ever imagine, all to be cut up, chopped in pieces, fresh and very appealing to the eye or the stomach. This activity is all for the purpose of feeding a society that is hungry all the time.

Thais eat all the time and when they’re hungry. There is not set time for feeding the body and soul. You can see this mind set as you walk along any street or boulevard in Thailand. If there is a crowd of Thais eating, this is a good place to stop and eat. The Dharma bums leaned this from S. on our trip to Cambodia last year. He taught the Dharma Bums the art of finding food in a foreign land and when you think about it, it’s not much different than picking up some roasted chestnuts in Paris. In any country of the world, the street is where the good food is.

The other lesson the Dharma Bums have leaned from their travels, food is the only thing we’ve got going. Old Dharma Bums are not attractive to women and so food or gay guys are our only recourse. And the Dharma bums are not gay, so that’s out.

So food is where the fun and joy is. Exploring the nooks, crannies and secert avenues of a city to find a “home cook” restrauant with a real “salt-of-the-earth” mom in charge, its where the search begins. It’s the place where you can feel that “your mom” is doing the cooking and she will take care of you. Cuddle and support your thrist and hunger. She won’t let you leave until she is satisifed that you can continue your journey full of warmth and energy. She does this automatically. She is all our mothers everyday.

The Dharma Bums travel looking for food to feed the soul. Each day the recipe for life must be baked to be completely fresh. This continuing motion is the wheel of life and soul of the Dharma Bums. Our travels have taken us to Cambodia and Thailand. Each place has provided the substance to continue.

I was sitting on the front steps of the restaurant at the Lighthouse enjoying my first cup of coffee, listening to the sounds of the sea and watching the waves break on the rocks.  I was having a generally peaceful and serene moment when Chilli Willi showed up to begin fishing off the dock.

He was in the process of setting up his fishing gear when Normano arrived wearing a Dharma Bums World Tour T-shirt.  Willi started chuckling and explained that he and his Austrian friends were getting a big kick out of our shirts.  It turns out that in the German language the word bums is a slang term for fucking.  “Dharma Fucking World Tour”, Chilli howled and danced. I wonder if Jack Kerouak knew that? 

Chilli Willi who, it seems know his way around a party, confirmed that the Full Moon Parties at Haad Rin are indeed  legendary, they have been occurring every month for more than twenty years.  The Dharma Bums were not on the island during that phase of the moon, in fact, we arrived on the day of the new moon, as we would under Dharma Bum rules.  But it really doesn’t matter anymore what phase the moon is in, there is a beach party every night, some are just bigger, louder and last longer.

There are people, mostly young, from all corners of the world but predominantly from Europe and Australia not to mention the Thais here on the island.  If you venture into town and onto the beach in the early morning (before 10) you will rarely see anyone but the local Thais,  mostly cleaning up from the previous nights partying.  The revelers rarely make an appearance before 11:00 unless they need to catch a ferry to leave the island.  Around noon there is much more activity as they begin to take on nourishment and to rehydrate, there are plastic bottles of water everywhere.  After lunch they start gathering at the beach, the Sunrise Beach on the east side of the island is the preferred site for the party set.  By mid afternoon the crowd at the beach thins dramatically,  the sun gets too hot.  From mid afternoon until about 9:00 in the evening there isn’t much activity, siesta time.  About 9:00 the activity level increases with people going out to a leisurely dinner.  The drinking activity and the music begin about 10:30-11 at a very modest pace.  The tempo of the music and the drinking hits full stride around midnight.

There are bars that overlook the the beach, each with their own very powerful competing sound systems cranking out techno beat but most parties are on the beach.  Some places provide tables and chairs  right on the beach, some provide entertainment in the form of small theater screens, some have Thai fire dancers and fireworks, all have booze by the bucket.  The plastic buckets come with about six straws so it can be shared with one or more friends. 

The drinking, the music and the dancing all get pretty raucous.  Some partyers crash right on the beach.  We saw one young man passed out in a plastic chair with his head resting on his chest, it looked mighty uncomfortable.  Those that pass out on the beach often have a rude awakening, first the sun comes up and then the tide comes in.

And then it happens all over again.  Maybe its like “Ground Hog Day”, they have to keep reliving it until they get it right.

Dharma Bernie

Dharma Bernie has already told the story about how we got to Koh Phangna, but, like all good stories, there is another story. After we’d spent a few days in frantic Bangkok last year, we knew that THIS year’s trip would have to include some down time on the beach. While doing some deep research on the trip, Normano googled ” Nude Beach Thailand,” and up popped Haad Rin on Koh Phangna in the Gulf of Thailand. We arrived at the pier in Haad Rin after a 45 minute ferry ride from Koh Somui. The ferry had been packed, probably two airline flights worth, and it was raining and the sea was rolling. Don B was up on the deck with a bunch of drunk Irishman. They were sailors on leave (literally – fisherman from the Irish Seas) coming to Koh Phangna to get drunk in wild – and the couldnt’t wait. One these guy drank two beers and a half pint of Old Bushmill during the 45 minute trip. The others weren’t far behind. Whoo-ee!!!

The ferry arrived and the Bums headed into Haad Rin. The small town has achieved a sort of international recognition for it’s monthly “Full Moon” party – a “must do” for the backpacker set. Every full moon, approximately 30,000 backpackers and fun seekers come for the party. It’s kind of like a monthly ” Burning Man” with fireworks, fire dances and trance music but without the the desert – or the art. Even in between the full moons, it’s a hot location, and it would soon be Saturday night in Haad Rin.

The plans for Koh Phangna had solidified last fall following a call from Normano to Don B. “Don,” Norman sad, “I think I’ve found the place. Go this this link I’ve sent you.” It was for the Light House Bungalows – the very last guest house on southern tip of the island. We couldn’t get there by car – we’d have to walk, it was so isolated. It was perfect!!

The Bums walked through the narrow concrete street of Haad Rin, through the tattoo parlors, Thai message shops, liquor stores, restaurants, moto rentals, guest houses, and Internet cafes. The sounds of Bob Marley, the Eagles, and English Soccer games fills the street, along with motos racing by, and locals asking us if we wanted to book a tour, get a message, or have some food. Most of tourists looked different than the Dharma Bums…less experienced…thinner…more tatoos.

We walked through town till the road ended, then kept walking along dirt roads, following the signs, up this hill, down that hill. Finally we’d reached the end of the beach and development and the only thing we could see was a wooden walkway along the rocks, above the water, curling around the point. We followed it until we finally reached the Lighthouse Bungalows. It was all that we’d hoped for – beautiful view, quite, with a constant sea breeze. We walked in to meet Carla, the owner’s girl friend and day manager, who was expecting us – and we were set.

We soon fell into an island routine. Get up pretty early (for Haad Rin), have breakfast, then beach time or blog work, followed by more beach time, then a nap, then back into town for dinner, then back to the Lighthouse. Carla told us about a shorter walking route the Lighthouse, walking directly along the beach.

Normano quickly found a local restaurant that became our home away from home. The place was called “Mam’s Resturantt” and was run by a woman named “Mam” though she was not the woman of the title. Pretty soon, it was breakfast, lunch, and dinner at Mam’s. I wouldn’t say Mam’s was a “hole-in-the-wall” – it wasn’t that nice – but the food was definitely local and great fun to eat. We began to work our way through the menu. Mam explained that she worked all the time, too much. She was always there – litterally. She slept on the floor, and if somebody came in early, she’d get up to serve them. And she kept late hours, too.

We wanted to see what the Haad Rin party scene was all about. After dinner at Mam’s on Saturady, we headed down to the beach. It was 8 pm or so. There were tables and chairs set up all along the half-mile beach. Local staff were busy preparing for the rush, setting up “whisky buckets.” “Whisky Buckets” are the Haad Rin way (and probably a lot of other places out here). A “Whisky Bucket” is a small plastic bucket, a pint of cheap/potent liquor, some mixer, and straws. You get the fixen’s a bucket of ice, the straws – all for 150 bhat. They probablly had 200 buckets set up just in the area we were in. And it was that way up and down the beach. It’s a sure and cheap drunk. That’s the way they roll here!

Normano bought a bottle of wine, and the Bums settled down on the beach to watch the party unfold. After a while, the wine was gone but the party had not begun. Normano decided to head back to pad; Dharma Bernia and Don B would stay abit longer. – But our research latter told us that the Bums would have to wait a whole lot longer – the Haad Rin Beach Party starts to pop about midnight and is really underway from 2 – 5. Unless they roll back the beach party to an earlier time, like they’ve done with Midnight Mass, the Bums would not make many of these parties. – After another beer, Dharma B and Don B headed home.

When they returned, the found that Normano was getting to know the neighbors. He introduced “Chili Willie” and his friends. They were Austrian, and you could tell that Chili Willy had done some living and knew the score. His friends were cool, too: 36 year old Roland had a shaved head and was working on a string beard from his chin that was already 4 inches long; Hans knew about Jimmi Hendrix.

The next morning the Bums headed back into town for breakfest at Mam’s. She was tired. Her business thrives on the parties. She’s cooking all night and then sending the kids home with food in their drunked stomachs at sunrise. By 8 am she’s ready for the morning shift – us. We had breakfast – by now we were way past the “American Breakfast” – going local – and then walked around to survey the damage. In they alley ways, local people sorted through the bottles and trash, sorting it for pick up. Down on the beach, drinking straws scattered all around were the most visable sign of the scene the night before. That and a few really destroyed looking tourists.

Haad Rin is changing. The nude beach is gone, replaced by bungalos. It’s now commerce with a capial “C.” There are signs for rooms, bungalos, “Tribal, Funky, Progressive” Happenings . There is also building everywhere. More bungalos, and even hotels. Who knows, maybe condos will be next. But on my last day, we talked with Dam, the owner of the LightHouse. He’s a local, has studied economics, worked as an accountant in Bankgok, and has a ten year plan for his place. I asked him if Koh Phangna will be the “next Koh Somui” (which is seeking to be the next Phuket). He said it would be better, that they had learned from Somui. This time, the local people are holding on their land, not selling it to developers. He’s got a bar in town, down where the parties happen. The proceeds of the bar – from the Saturday night and Full Moon Raves, are funding the fullfillment of his dream. And he’s adding to his land.