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June 12, 2004

Cathedrals & Crowds

What a city! Wow, wow, wow! Wow to the amazingly beautiful St. Isaac's Cathedral, which I visited yesterday (the 11th). And wow to the amazing amount of people, traffic, and pollution on Nevsky Prospekt. Having never been to New York City, but having seen pictures, I imagine that's what it is like...except there they have catalytic converters on the cars...which probably makes a difference to the breathability!

Still, I am so excited to be here. It is an amazing place. I got a lost a little bit already, but after a while, found my way okay. In being lost, ended up next to a theatre with an announcement about the ballet. Back at the hostel, they called and got me a cheap-rate ticket to see Swan Lake at the Marinsky Theatre next week. (More wows.)

The city has so many beautiful buildings...the Hermitage is unbelievably big...and all I have seen so far is the outside. I am saving it for a rainy day (as I hear there will be at least a few during my time here). I visited the Russian State museum today (Saturday) and the artwork was so amazing...hope that the pictures come out so that I can show you, Deb. The building was HUGE, with amazing gardens around it, fountains, sculptures.

The Neva river is bigger than I imagined it, with many canals everywhere. Found a bookstore and bought a map in Cyrillic. Did lots and lots and lots of walking. Seems like most tourists are either in large groups, with tour buses that take them everywhere, or they have a privately hired car with a driver to take them around. The buildings are amazing, but they are far apart and the streets are so crowded it is difficult to navigate until you get into the big-city mindset.

For example, when waiting to cross the street, you don't stand on the sidewalk...or the curb...you stand in the street. The busier the street, the more people are standing in the street. Sometimes they get tired of waiting, so even though the light is red, they walk. The cars stop. What else can they do? There's over a hundred people sweeping across the street, so they just stop. It's quite an experience! This is my second day here, so I am started to get more used to it.

I read in a local paper (St. Petersburg Times) in an article where they were discussing the 'promises' of St. Pete's newest mayor, that 22% of the people here live at the poverty level. In a city of 4.3 million, that is a lot of people! I noticed that there is a big disparity in the prices between, for example, food in the tourist areas and food at the little grocery store by my hostel. I definitely sense that split between those with lots of money and those without.

The hostel where I am staying is safe and comfortable, but nothing at all like the hostels in Poland and Deutschland. The building smell actually reminds me of Yellowstone-kitchen smell (remember, Debbie?). Not completely unpleasant, but definitely a smell you remember. As I walk the streets, I keep being reminded of Doystoyevsky's Crime & Punishment, where the people are so poor that all the beautiful buildings of St. Pete's are pretty much irrelevant. Of course, I am a tourist, so I don't understand, but I begin to get a feel for how this could be so.

Anyway, amazing city, and so grateful to be here! FYI - I will probably be posting only every couple days, since I have to rent time at an internet cafe. (In Poland it was free and in the hostel, so it was easier. But the computer in the hostel here doesn't seem to be reliable. So, Mom & Dad, no worries if you only hear from me every couple days. I can check my blog from the hostel, but it is really slow for posting. So post if you need me urgently.) Hope you are all doing well!

Posted by Elizabeth on June 12, 2004 09:40 AM
Category: Russia
Comments

I'm glad you are having a good time. I know it is very exciting for you.
BTW the trees you thought you killed in the atrium are coming back to life nicely.... especially the big one.... I know this was a big worry in your life...... Hah! So don't worry about them any more and enjoy your vision trip!!!

Posted by: Pete on June 12, 2004 05:26 PM

Swan Lake in St Pete... it doesn't get better than that. Keep having a wonderful time!
Amy

Posted by: Amy on June 13, 2004 05:38 AM

Can't wait to see pictures of all the spiffy artwork and stuff. Are you in any pictures? difficult I know. love you lots, praying for you. Are you tired of traveling yet? luv ya, deb

Posted by: deborah on June 13, 2004 10:01 PM

Hey Beth!

Otlichno!! You're finally in the city of Peter. Soak up all that beauty so far away.

Posted by: susie on June 15, 2004 02:12 AM

To Russia with Love and awe! :) Well, the RV camping trip went well. We were in Merlin, OR (near Grants Pass). Was very beautiful, though not as sunny as we'd have liked. Probably the only bad part of the trip was hearing the riffle reports on Friday...the talk in town was that they were tracking down a rogue cougar. Very sad. As to skipping days in correspondence I'd say "What are you crazy?! Hello...day one and the Mafia already knows where you live!!!". Get extorted at the internet cafe for heavens sake! Remember the 5k to 7k discussion?...come on...I'm having an anxiety attack here with the 3 day delay...! :)

Posted by: Gina on June 15, 2004 03:55 AM
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