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July 10, 2004

Bronchitis in Budapest

Okay, okay, I'm exaggerating. It's probably NOT bronchitis. But I am totally, miserably sick. However, Budapest is wonderful! Have had some remarkably friendly people experiences. Also, the city itself has a really unique feel to it, kind of an ancient-eastern bright version of gotham city...course I could just be delirious....

Okay, so to catch up...I took the train from Prague on Thursday, a 7-hour trip that actually wasn't bad, since I was too sick to sightsee anyway. Saw some beautiful fields of sunflowers south of Bratislava in Slovakia. Came into this amazing old train station not really knowing where I would stay and too sick to worry about it anyway. Decided that this was definitely HOTEL time.

Here's my first friendly experience...

First off, getting a hotel wasn't as easy as it sounds. Since Budapest is a spa place, all the central hotels were really expensive...like 150-200 euros. (My luxury budget is like 75-90 euros or $80-$120USD). So after some research and walking around and talking to the tourist info desk lady, I got her to hold me a bed at a Best Western that is on the Danube but far outside the center. She also gave me directions to get there via metro and bus. (I was kind of hoping for a taxi, but again, too sick to argue). So I take the metro and get to the bus stop and nowhere on the bus thingy does it list the stop she had written down for me. (Okay, remember that I am coughing and hacking this whole time and it is about 90 degrees and muggy - I just want you to get the whole effect).

Anyway, so when the bus stops I show the bus driver my directions...remember also that I speak NO HUNGARIAN. Like I can't even say 'please' and it's not like Czech/Polish/Russian AT ALL. It's completely different. The bus driver nods, so I get on with my huge pack, which he takes from me and stashes in the front, and then, after a few stops, motions for me to sit. So I'm thinking, okay, he'll tell me where to get off. But if he wants me to sit..it must be a long way. (Granted I don't know where, exactly, because the street the hotel is on isn't on any of the city-center tourist maps.) So we drive and drive and drive. After a while, this girl gets on who is friends with the driver. (You know how that happens - in Portland I had my favorite driver too - when you ride the bus a lot this is common). He talks to her, points to me, and she says something to me like, she'll show me where to get off. So we drive and drive and drive.

Finally, we get off and hey! I recognize the street name - it matches the one on my directions. But the girl actually motions for me to follow her...and she walks me the whole way (about four blocks) to the hotel. How nice is this??!! Remember that this is just an ordinary city bus and this hotel is not in any tourist kind of place. In fact, its right next to a mobile home park. Its got kind of a sports center and a bowling alley thing. So the cynical part of me is wondering if she walked me to make sure I got there okay, but the optimistic part of me is like - wow! How nice?! And I bet I probably looked pretty pitiful.

As a result of this, however, my expectations for the hotel were really low, and I was very pleasantly surprised. Room was wonderful - European size (aka small) but not shabby and smoke-free (okay, the best part is that it is ALL MINE and I have LOTS of pillows *hee*) - free, big, hot breakfast every morning - and a jacuzzi and pool. And it's like a middle-range Marriott back home...better than a Super 8 but not as nice as a Westin. Really nice common and dining areas. Plus, it has German TV channels. So I got to watch Kiefer Sutherland speaking Deutsch. (Evidently they have a lot of tourists from Wien).

Okay, so on to the second funny people experience....

The next day (Friday), I forced myself to get out of bed because I really wanted some bottled water and was out of my Russian decongestant. So I took the free shuttle the hotel has into downtown and ended up (how could I resist?) at the Hungarian National Gallery in the Buda Royal Palace in the Buda Castle area, which was AMAZING. I had to take breaks a lot, because I am still sick and wheezing and kind of weak, but the paintings (all Hungarian) were wonderful. There was one named 'Consolation' of an old peasant woman comforting a young girl who had that disillusioned look. Something really haunting about that one. And then one called 'Sisters' (aaahhh) - wish they would have let me take a picture of it for you, Deb, you would have loved it. I'll describe it for you later (took notes).

I rode the funincular up there, and after I got up there, saw a lady who was comforting a little boy who had falled and skinned his knee. Maybe because I was feeling all friendly from the bus driver experience, I gave her a bandaid and some ointment from my day bag....she didn't speak any English, but together we figured it out....and he quit crying....that was kind of neat... anyway, so I went to the gallery, bought some postcards for you all, got my medicine at a Apoteke (thank God that word is similiar!!) and then went in search of supplies.

So (finally getting there - I'm sick, give me a break) I found some local-type shops where I bought marzipan and mosquito repellant (made buzzing noises and acted like something was biting me - the girl understood totally) and then found a little grocery-mini-market place. I went in and got some big bottles of water, some Nestea, and went up to pay. Here the lady let loose with a long stream of Hungarian. I did my best to look helpless and confused, hoping she would make some hand motions, utter a few English or German words. However, she just went off into another long stream of Hungarian. So I smiled and made the motion for whew! that went way over my head. Evidently, this hand signal is universal because she started roaring with laughter and wiping her eyes. Her and the young girl and guy who were also in the little shop....they all laughed and talked about me and so I laughed too. She gave me a bag (perhaps this was the question? I was too sick to know) and I paid and said very proudly the one Hungarian word I know....kosonom (thank you) and this produced more laughter and big smiles as they approved of my politeness.

So that's been my Budapest experience thus far. I am getting a massage at the hotel on Sunday (tomorrow) for only 30USD - yes!! And then I leave on Monday and go to Vienna...not sure yet how or when...need to arrange that...

Anyway, thanks for all your comments. Glad that you got the Hermitage postcards, Claire! :) Love to you all...

Oh, and have I mentioned that I ADORE my Prague haircut. I feel so much better having my hair short....and swimming at the hotel has been wonderful...if I feel up to it, I will try a spa...we'll see...

Posted by Elizabeth on July 10, 2004 12:02 PM
Category: Hungary
Comments

Praying for your illness to go away quickly...bummer. But in spite of it all you 've kept your good humor.

Posted by: mom on July 10, 2004 05:15 PM

Just want to let you know we received postcard No. 1. Again, thank you, thank you. All three are treasures for me! Sounds like 'Lovely downtown Ventura' will be a bit drab after all you've seen so far. Hope you are feeling much better. Not a good thing to be sick on vacation. Claire

Posted by: Jack & Claire on July 10, 2004 08:41 PM

Yeah Beth!!! Thanks so much for the postcard! I was so excited when I got it theother day! Sorry you're feeling under the weather...drink lots of water and take a little break and hopefully you'll be fine in no time! Miss ya and can't wait to hear more about the next adventures!!!!

Posted by: brandy on July 11, 2004 08:38 AM

I am laughing soo hard right now....I can just hear you managing your day and your cough with those great quirky/fatalistic/self-deprecating asides and gestures...Ah! Hey...be careful with the massages...I hear personal boundaries are a little different abroad! Oh...strike that...would be very funny to hear you turn La Femme Nikita on someone with a little "housekeeping" action! :->)

Posted by: Gina on July 11, 2004 11:14 AM
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