Gosh, I am at a loss where to begin. I have had so many memorable moments here, and I can't believe I've been here over a week already! The time just flies by. Still haven't visited the Hermitage or Pushkin or Peterhof or a number of other places. But let me tell you about the days I have had...they have been UNBELIEVABLY wonderful. I think I am falling in love with this city!!

Okay, so we left off at Swan Lake...Wednesday. Yes, well, it RAINED all day Wednesday. Not a little rain...no, "wenn Engel reisen" obviously does not apply to me! (This is a German saying, I can explain later).

So I decided (in Amy's words) to SUCK IT UP and go out in the rain, because, after all, I had to go to the ballet anyway. And you know, it was a good thing, because yes, the Nevsky Prospekt was a nightmare....see the pavement is really uneven, so the puddles are enormous, plus there are all these people jostling (pickpockets everywhere - some guy in my hostel had his jacket slashed - so I am watchful), and it was cold, and I was still sick and sniffling...but you know, it wasn't that bad. I did fine. I was okay. First off, I bought an umbrella. Then I hobbled my way and found a little cafe, tucked myself in a corner, had coffee. After this I hid in the Russian Museum of Ethnography which, aside from the overwhelming smell of lacquer from all the students in there painting, was actually really interesting. (More on that later, too).

Then I sniffled and sneezed my way along the canal to the Mariinsky for Swan Lake. It was a long way, but I gave myself plenty of time. Found one of these cafeterias (hey, I can sound out the letters, that is what it said, in Cyrillic) and had a little snack. Then I went to the theatre.

Oh my word!!! I literally have absolutely no words for how unbelievably beautiful the ballet was....Ivan, your country is so amazing!! These dancers...oh oh oh. It was breath-taking. I meant that literally. No breath. It was so beautiful. The music, the theatre, the dancers, the costumes, the music. Have I mentioned the ballet? The ballet was ENCHANTING. I kind of sat there, trembling. It was truly one of the most amazing moments of my life.

The ballet got out late...like 11:30. And it was a long, long walk back to the hostel. Plus it isn't the best street to walk on (Sadovaya) so I hurried. Well, I kind of had this really bad cramp in my left hip and leg...it has been bothering me...like this, shooting pain down my leg (sciata, Mom?). Anyway, so I walked really fast but because of my cramp and because my feet were hurting and I was sneezing it took me a long time to get back. I didn't get back to the hostel until nearly 1am. Course, it is a long walk, and I did get a little turned around. So, anyway, I got back safe, and I don't know if it was the adrenaline rush from walking fast and acting tough (cause people were out drinking, so I was on my guard) or the ballet but I couldn't sleep. I just sat there in the dark for like an hour.

The next morning my cold was gone. I mean gone. I feel great. I still have that weird pain in my hip. But Thursday it rained again, so I took the day off. Stayed in the hostel, finished Anna Karenina (kind of not sure that I liked it that much - more on that later too), ate chocolate (hey - I'm on vacation), then took myself out to dinner and picked up some groceries for breakfast. (I have to tell you later about breakfast at the hostel - my roomie now calls it the Nazi Soup Kitchen. It is funny.)

Okay, so that brings us to today. Today was gorgeous weather. I went to Peter & Paul Fortress (Ivan's favorite place). I took the metro (yeah for me - it is scary - have I told you how deep it is? It's like the Journey to the Center of the Earth. I am NOT joking. Ask Ivan...it is deep!!! It is kind of creepy. But I SUCKED IT UP (I sense a theme here) and rode it successfully to the stop I wanted for the island where the fortress is...its not far..only had to change trains once. But the trains are packed, so it is kind of hard....you have to push your way on and off and I am learning).

First off, I went the Museum of Political History. This, for a person like me, was sooo interesting. I could philosophize about that, but my time on the cafe computer is running out. So, G & A, make a note. I'll ramble about that later to you. Sturty - I went to the original cabin that Peter the Great built! It was so cool. I remember so much about him from our class in high school, it is weird how things come back. Remember I read his biography? Anyway, they preserved his cabin and I got some great pictures to show you all later when I finallly get that part done. Sooo interesting.

Also went to the history of saint pete's museum...this was newer, interactive exhibits. Very nice. But I couldn't really concentrate, because there was this band, playing big-band, early Americana kind of music in the courtyard. Too cool for words. Have I mentioned also, that the weather was amazing, and the Neva was absolutely beautiful? It is a big river, like the Columbia. Maybe not as wide, but you get the idea. A real river. You know how the wind comes off the river and gives the air that smell? And the sun is high? And there's a band playing? Can you feel that? It was so much fun I had to go out there and listen. Then I walked on the rooftops of the bastions...they have built this walkway that allows you to look out over the fortress and the bridges over the Neva. It was cool.

Okay, I have 5 min left. Have to tell you about the dinner and the concert.

Dinner was funny. It started to rain (another theme) so I found a cafe. Menu only in Russian, so I just guessed. Guess what they brought me? You will never guess. Omigod, I laughed SO HARD. Mushrooms. Like 6 different kinds. Very fancy. Pickled. I laughed until I almost fell out of my chair. How funny is this. It was so funny I wasn't even cranky, I just ate the bread, drank my beer, and bought an ice cream from a vendor cheap. (I hate mushrooms in case someone doesn't know).

Then I saw a sign that they were having a concert at the Peter and Paul Cathedral, which is, of course, absolutely beautiful. (It is also famous because the imperial family is buried there.) The concert was also totally amazing....it was a-capella, the Men's Choir of Saint Petes. They made me cry. They sang not only sacred music, but Russian folk songs. It was the kind of music that just kind of runs up your arms and whispers in the back of your hair and seizes you. Do you know what I mean? Like music from a long, long, long, time ago.

Okay, I have to post, I'm out of time. Walked home to the sunset over the Neva, lighting up all the buildings and making them glow. In the Summer Garden, the smell of lilacs everywhere, blooming. Such an amazing day. I love your city, Ivan. I love your country. I can't wait for you and Sue to come.

Sandra, I will post later on my plans...thank you so much for your kindness! You are wonderful. I don't know yet what I am doing.

Okay, gotta run, love you all!