A Jolly Start to Zambia
Tuesday, December 9th, 2008Day 253
It felt a bit strange going to the airport, its only the 3rd flight we’ve used to get somewhere on the trip. Strange but good as well. In South America we had a clear goal, overland from Toronto south to Tierra del Fuego. Here in Africa it was a bit unclear if we had an overland goal anymore. I had hoped it was north through Zimbabwe or Mozambique but neither was going to work. We have discovered that traveling overland on a budget and doing activities in Africa is very difficult. So taking a cheap flight, like todays saves us time and probably money. Overland we’d have to go through very expensive Botswana and it would take 2 days to reach Livingstone. Today we will arrive 2 hours after take off.
The hostel had a free drop off service at the airport, one of the reasons we wanted to stay there. We checked in for the flight where we met a interesting fellow Canadian in line. She was a middle age ex-banker from Newfoundland, living in Oakville who was now running an children school in Lusaka. The school was for children affected or infected by HIV/AIDS. We walked around the shops in the newly named and renovated Oliver Tambo Airport. Soon enough we boarded our British Airways flight to Livingstone, Zambia.
The flight was quick, with a decent meal and lots of empty seats. As we neared Livingstone the pilot announced out the left window we could view the falls. It was quite a sight below. The snaking Zambezi river with a cloud of mist rising above the green landscape, it was a beautiful sight without much civilization in view. We touched down at the small airport and pretty much drove right up to the door of the airport. Upon entering we were immediately at customs and were second in line. “$50 U.S. please”, the smiley customs agent asked from us. I never understand why countries demand payment for a visa in a currency other than their own. Zambia will only accept $50 American and nothing else. I’m not sure what happens if you don’t have it but lucky enough I keep a stash for situations just like this. Don’t tell any muggers that.
We have booked 3 nights at Jolly Boys Backpackers here and they had free airport pickup. We quickly grabbed our bags from the carousel and I excitedly searched for a sign with my name on it. I’ve never had anyone pick me up from the airport before with one of those signs. “Jolly Boys – Michael Coroneos”. I looked, and nothing. From the runway to customs to baggage claim to the airport exit was about 50 meters so we were just about outside. Where was my sign?! “Sir, do you need a taxi?” A man asked. “No, there should be someone here picking us up, Jolly Boys”. He led us outside where a large man was having a smoke while holding a small chalk board. It read “Michael”, I was disappointed. This wasn’t the way I pictured my first time being picked up at an airport to be. We’ll have to try again somewhere else.
Nevertheless he was a friendly guy and soon enough we were pulling into Jolly Boys Backpackers. We checked in and settled into our neat little thatch a-frame bungalow. It was well designed with screens all around for ventilation and a good fan. The hostel was pretty nice, a pool, bar and even small gift shop. Jordana and I set out to get some Zambian Kwacha from an ATM and find some early dinner. Livingstone is surprisingly pretty much a simple one street town. Its a bustling street but I pictured something different for such a touristy spot. With the falls 11km away most of the upscale accommodation is located outside the town, so its actually not a very touristy place.
“Money?! Money?! Change here!” It seemed every other guy on the street was a money changer. I just used the ATM to withdrawal money but I did have some South African Rand I changed with one guy to $ U.S. for a great rate. Gotta love the black market. It didn’t take long for Jordana and I to notice how friendly everyone seemed. People smiled as the walked the street and even the ones that tried to change money or sell us something just wanted to say hi and know how we were after they knew we weren’t needing their business services. One young man selling wood cravings just wanted something from Canada to trade for something he had made. Really, he didn’t want any money. We felt bad cause we don’t have anything “Canadian” with us, we used to but have given it all away already. For dinner we found a strange Zambian pub where American country music played. We talked about the friendly people of the day and tried to decide what activities we may want to try here. Apart from Victoria Falls everything from white water rafting to bungee jumping or walking with lion cubs is on offer. Problem is it all comes at a steep price. Tomorrow we are off to see Victoria Falls, a place I’ve heard makes Niagara look small. We shall see.
Michael Coroneos