Last night, we had a chance to go downtown to the Kuwaiti Souk. It's a shopping area that has mainly normal, day to day stuff that people buy. For that reason, there are no shops with touristy crap, and thus no tourists. The folks I went with were looking for some machine made carpets to furnish homes in the US. The price for a nice, 11x17 foot carpet started at about 900 SAR (around $230), and was very negotiable...One guy walked out with 2 matching rugs (6x9 ft and 9x15) for about 1500 SAR ($400).

I bought socks. And some almonds and corn nuts ...

The Ugly Shirt
I also tried out my "Ugly Shirt," bought a couple of months ago for the express purpose of going out on the town. There's a certain look that just screams "American." Not that I'm not proud to be one, but here, with the very real terrorist threat, sometimes it's best to try to blend. I grew a moustache a few months back (Mrs. F. has graciously let me keep it...even though it tickles her nose when I kiss her), and I make a point of practicing my Arabic whenever I'm out. There's not much some people can do, but I'm regularly asked if I'm Syrian. It might not be best to be thought of as Syrian, considering the country's history of supporting terrorism (and yes, I know that there's a difference between the people of Syria and the government), but, if that's some AQ guy's first impression and he passes me up, so much the better.

Back to the Ugly Shirt...Most of the locals (non-Saudi Arabs and other TCNs - Saudis wear the thobe (white man-dress) and gutra (white head scarf) or shamagh (red and white checked head scarf)) tend to wear these long sleeve button down shirts that just wouldn't sell well in the boutiques of NY (I assume, anyhow...). Some are particularly ugly...that is the kind I bought. It's blue, has diagonal alternating red and tan pinstripes, and a white collar underneath the blue striped collar. When I bought it, I asked the vendor to "sell me a shirt that is like the shabab (young Saudi men) wear. I want to look like a well dressed shabab..."

He pulled this shirt off the rack, held it up to me, said, "Hatha kamisa kweiss" (this shirt is good), and I bought it. It was about 40 riyals. And worth every halala.

So last night, I donned the Ugly Shirt, a pair of khaki pants, non-matching brown socks, and my slip on shoes. All males (except the Westerners) wear slip on shoes or sandals...I think it's easier when they go pray. As I was wandering around wearing my Ugly Shirt, I looked around at what other guys were wearing...they all had their own versions of Ugly Shirts. Some had khaki pants, some other dress pants, and all wore the ubiquitous slip-ons or sandals.

I will complete my out on the town ensemble...I'm going to have some lightweight dress pants made in a gray cloth, and go get myself some sandals to go with it. Whatever it takes to try not to stick out...

Teeth Sticks
Now with Ramadan in full swing, it's not uncommon to see guys wandering around chewing on sticks. These sticks are called Siwaak, and are spoken of in the Quran. Part of it is cleanliness...the end of the stick frays and acts like a toothbrush. Also, since there is no eating or drinking during the day, having something to chew on helps to stimulate saliva production, reducing the feelings of thirst, and gives you something to do to take your mind off your belly.

One of our interpreters brought back a bunch of them from Makkah when he went last week...We've all been chewing on them periodically. It's something of an acquired taste, I guess.

I think it just tastes like a stick.