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November 19, 2004

San Andres Chikul

I could have the spelling all wrong but if you look in a guide book the pyschedelic church is what will bring you here!

Thursday 11-18-04

This town is famous for its crazy colored church. I am not telling tales here! The church is a bright yellow and the other bright colors are reds, greens, blues, and pinks. But the exterior is not the only reason to attend this church. Inside there is a lovely neon sign reading "Pescador de Hombres" in bright electric blue and then green and pink neon lights surrounding the statue of standing Jesus. It is truly a sight to behold.

The town is preparing for a huge festival right now and it looks that there will be tight rope walking from a huge free standing pole, across the town square, to the top of the entrance of the church. It will be quite the festival.

My observation, as we walked up and down steep cobble stone streets, was of the local Pila. A group of about 8 women were all doing their laundry on the community pila. This consists of tubs and permanent concrete scrub boards for any community member to use. We walked past the ladies doing their laundry and sharing stories in a language that is not spanish.

Once past these ladies, and quite a contrast to their picturesque laundry day, was the loud, brightly lit arcades that have been set up for the festival. The children of the town are giving away their money to try and eat dots like Pac Man or destroy Asteroids from their space ships. It was very interesting to see two completely different worlds sharing space within 100 feet of each other.

The dancers for the festival were out and practicing and was very fun to watch. Their regalia is amazing and very ornate. I loved it!

We walked up a very steep hill to overlook the city, the corn drying on the roofs of houses, the threads with which to make textiles drying from their dying, and that big yellow church directing everyone to God. At this end of town is a very small and equally bright church that locals come to for their very personal prayers. Beyond this small church is an outside worshipping site for another indigenous religion. There are crosses and charred earth and worshippers there. Fires are present and, at times, so are live sacrifices. The chickens in this area are looking a little nervous.

Upon our return from San Andres Chukil a few of us are invited to talk to an ex-Guerrilla fighter. The history he gives and the conversation is amazing. We are able to ask the personal questions and the curiosity questions. I am moved by his experience and the hard history of Guatemala is brought into a much more vivid picture for me. Their history is not so ancient. Their war ended in 1996. This day is declared on their money - 29 de Diciembre de 1996.

It is hard to hear their stories because at some point there is always the "the United States funded the government and the army to fight against their own people". That is never easy to hear..... or at least it shouldn´t be.... for an American. I am learning that the US has done some things that I´m not so proud of. I will not turn my back on my country but it is important to know both sides... good and bad.

My night ended with conversation and friends at Vino y Queso. A delightful way to end a day of extremes.

Posted by Wander Woman on November 19, 2004 09:01 AM
Category: Guatemala
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