My friends, Joan, Ramona, Mary Jane, and I decide to checkout some markets in the area.

One of the great finds in this area is the indigenous markets.... and the people you meet there.

Some friends of mine have asked who these women are - they are a wonderful group of friends that I have made since coming to Xela. I met all of these women and any other name I mention here. Since I´m traveling solo you can bet that any name you read is someone I met at school.... for now.

Friday 11-12-04

We head to San Francisco el Alto - Mary Jane, Joan, Ramona, Maria (Joan´s teacher) and Llana (Maria´s morning student). This market is well known for being a haven for pickpockets. We have all been warned to not bring a nice camera or lots of money.

We all follow these guidelines. At Proyecto Linguistico de Espanol, the school I am attending, the teachers are very flexible on what kinds of experiences you have and share. Joan asked her teacher if she would like to come with us to the market. Maria loves the market in San Francisco! She makes a wonderful guide since she knows the highlights of the place.

We take a bus to the market and when we offload all of us are immediately overwhelmed by the number of vendors in the streets. This is simply the introduction.

This market is mostly indigenous - Mayan - and their wares. Ramona is almost 6 feet tall and hovers above everyone in the market. This is important because she found a jacket that she really wanted. When she asked the man if he had a larger size... one that would fit her.... he said "chiquitas solamente". We all had a good laugh that this market was not made for the Amazonian woman that Ramona so proudly is. ha ha

The market grows with every turn in the street. Each time we round a corner the stalls grow in number and the walkway shrinks in width. This is good info to have too because of a thing called "jostling". What happens is a group of people will surround you and then start bumping into you so that while you are distracted by the bumping and trying to stay upright they are cleaning out your pockets.

At one point in our visit Ramona and I were surrounded and the bumping began. Ramona, in a loud clear voice, stated "Rebecca... we are being jostled...it is happening right now.... be aware of the experience" I stood there laughing so hard I was crying while they worked me and bumped me. I was aware and luckily all they could get was change... literally .75 worth off of me. They deemed it was not worth it because I walked away from the experience with my change in my pocket. I´m sure they thought I was mad that the entire time this was occurring I was laughing hysterically. This moment has continued to bring me several bouts of laughter. Every time I retell the story anyone listening laughs as well. Ramona.... I love you girl!

We went deep into the heart of the market so that Maria could show us the place where the animals are sold. I told you... this market has everything! In this open area there are cows, pigs, rabbits, cats on leashes, puppies, chickens, turkeys, sheep, goats, and a couple other animals I am forgetting. The pigs and cows are young....piglets and calves actually. The piglets are unforgettable because they each have their own leash and they crowd together to keep warm. There are even speckled piglets which are the most adorable!

On the way to the animal portion of the market you have to push... think football tackling.... your way up some stairs with the rest of the market goers. Remember Ramona.... and her height.... yeah... a very small and very old man (maybe 4 1-2 feet tall) grabbed her butt pocket to hold onto to get him up the stairs and securely thru the crowd. ha ha

Unfortunately a friend, Dustin, did not listen to our sage advice and left his wallet - complete with license, bank card, and 250 quetzales ($30) - in his pants pocket and, after 30 minutes, he was jostled and his wallet was gone.

In this place there is a lot to be said for the warnings given by locals. They know what they are talking about.

Ok.... on to the next market.