"La shukran" is Arabic for "no thank you", and is the number one most important phrase every traveller to Luxor needs to learn. "La shukran, I do not want a felucca ride now. La shukran, I do not want a felucca ride later. La shukran, not tomorrow either. La shukran, I do not want a carriage ride. La shukran, 'the lady' does not want a carriage ride either. La shukran, I do not want to see your alabaster shop."

After my last entry about Cairo, I began to get used to the place, and to really enjoy it. Cairo, even though it was obviously much bigger and dirtier and noisier than Luxor, also had the advantage of making you fairly anonymous. In such a huge city, everybody is just going about their business, and is ignoring you. This leaves you free to sightsee in peace, and to just walk around town. Most of our interactions in Cairo, besides at the pyramids, were perfectly pleasant. In a tourist town like Luxor, though, most peoples' business is attempting to extract money from you in some way, and so we're constantly having to fend off the buzz of touts, carriage drivers, and papyrus shopkeepers. After awhile it's maddening not being able to have a conversation with somebody that doesn't involve them trying to sell you something, or to rip you off in some way.

So I guess I have mixed feelings about Luxor. On the one hand, the constant hassle is wearing. On the other hand, the sightseeing here is amazing. The temple of Karnak is the coolest thing I've seen. Most of it is in ruins, but the Great Hypostyle Hall (i.e., a giant temple hall with closely packed columns) is fairly intact, or at least well-restored. The temple of Luxor, though smaller than Karnak, is in even better shape. Both temples are devoted to the "Theban Triad", the supreme god Amun, his consort Mut, and their son Khons.

Yesterday morning, we took a cab to the Valley of the Kings. We went to a couple of the less-popular tombs, of Tuthmosis IV, and Siptah. Both were fairly simple, but it was fun to be able to explore, and look at all the wall paintings and reliefs without the crowds. We also went into the Ramses III tomb, which is larger and more elaborate. However, it's difficult to linger and look when you're crowded into the tomb with a couple busloads of French package tourists!

Tomorrow we'll probably head back to the West Bank, and see the tombs of the nobles, as well as a temple or two.

After that , we'll head further south, to Aswan. I think Cathy and I will have both succumbed to "Pharaonic fatigue" and will be ready to find a slightly nicer hotel, where we can relax on the terrace and drink Stella (Egypt's national beer) and just read for a day or two!