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January 12, 2004

Rainy Days

Hey there!
Right now, Cartoon and I are on Koh Phangan, off the east coast of the Andaman Penninsula in the gulf of Thailand. Honestly, I would normally wait until I got back to Bangkok before writing this entry (especially since I don't have my card reader = no pictures) but I'm experiencing my first bout with bad weather so I can't really go out to play.

We arrived here on the 10th, to dark clouds, rushing winds and huge waves. We thought we'd wait it out. Three days later now and no sun in sight.
Apparently, this is a bad time for this side of the penninsula. As Cartoon would say; 'No worries' (she lives in New Zealand) constant sun, heat and blue skies can get a little boring after awhile so in a way this is a welcome change and it gives me a chance to spend some time with you, my dear pals.

About a week and a half ago, the four girls: Apple, Cartoon, Nong and I, boarded the train in Bangkok for a 17 hour ride south to Hat Yai, the third major city in Thailand after Bangkok and Chiang Mai. It was definately better than my last train experience, it helps to have friends along. We talked, had plenty of snacks and some beer, and before we knew it it was bed time. Cartoon and I were pretty exhausted after the long night before. (we met quite a few characters, including a 7ft tall Native American named Dick)

I slept like it was church and in the morning we had a two hour bus ride and a two hour ferry ride to Koh Tarutao, the largest of a group of islands on the very south west boundary between Thailand and Malaysia. We were expecting some quiet times since this wasn't a really a tourist island but part of a national park. We made sure we brought the sauce with us: one btl of Absolute and one Tangueray.

I've really got to hand it to enterprising Thais, often the beach is too shallow for the ferry to moor so a longtail boat will take you to shore, the fare of which is separate than the ferry. Then, farang (white people) are required to pay 200 bhat entry fee into the park while Thais are charged 20 bhat. I guess I can understand, but the garbage upkeep could have been better.

We had a relaxing day on the beach, much deserved after the long trip, and found out from one of the rangers about how to arrange another pesky visa run for yours truely. He was so nice that he offered to drive us to the Malaysian boarder in a few days. See what happens when you travel with native speakers!

The next day, we needed some action so we took the ferry to Koh Lipe (Lee-pay), a small island west of Tarutao, which isn't part of the park.
F-ing unbelivable! Sand like white talcum, clear emerald sea, good snorkling right off the beach and a decent selection of places to stay, eat and drink. Reasonable prices too. The four of us got a hut for 350 Bhat (<$10) and went nuts for dinner, 2 servings of excellent green muscles, fresh fish, veggies in oyster sauce, rice and a salad all for less than $20.

I'm adding to my list of 'happy places', this one is called the Jumping Monkey Bar on Koh Lipe, the main attraction of which (as you can guess) is an adolescent monkey named Jessie. Who needs sports on the tv when you can play with a real monkey? We were there twice a day.

We were only able to stay there a few nights because we had to get back to meet the ranger for my visa run. The last day on Koh Lipe was great though, I had a Thai massage on the beach and made some new little sea gypsy friends. They were so cute and friendly, at one point, I had two of them on my back, one in each arm while chasing another in the water. They totally exhausted me!

After we finished my visa, the ranger took us to see a bit of Thali Baan national park. Any of you bird watchers out there should check it out, it's one of the best places in the world to see hundereds of rare species.

We got to Hat Yai in time for our train back to Bangkok, but Cartoon and I were like 'Hey, why go back? Let's go to the beach!' Unfortunately, Apple had to be in Bangkok to spend her last few days with her family before returning to Chicago, but Cartoon and I had time; her husband isn't arriving until Jan. 25th and my friend from Vermont is coming on the 22nd.

So here we are, spending rainy days on the beach, losing all track of time.
I think I'll only be able to put up with this for a few more days...max.

It's still better than the snow in Chicago (he he)
K

P.S. I plan on amending this entry asap to include pictures (you've gotta see this monkey!)

Posted by Girl Owl on January 12, 2004 09:21 PM
Category:
Comments

Ι can sent you the super dog for snail hunting if it raining to much in Tailand. Anyway here in Chania it is sunshine...... xa xa xa
Many kisses Panagiotis

Posted by: Panagiotis on January 19, 2004 11:09 AM

Hi Kate. Keep those reports coming. I was wondering, while on Kho PhanGan, did you go to the full moon party?

Posted by: Marc-Andre on January 23, 2004 08:01 AM

No full moon party for me man, I don't like the crowds.
Pretty cool half-moon party though, the moon rose slowly over the sea, huge and orange, like sunset at night.

Posted by: Kate (me) on January 25, 2004 06:26 AM




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