On my original list of things to do in China, the 3 day Yangtze/Three Gorges trip was definitely on there. Another of those unmissables. Or so I thought. Chatting to other travellers, reading the thorn tree it became increasingly clear that perhaps it was not going to be all that I was looking for. Stories of dire food, having to pay to get out on deck, huge expense to go on guided tours at each stop off point, with Chinese speaking guide only, and less than impressive scenery. Why pay to put myself through such things? I know they're going to be completely flooded soon, which made the decision not to go even harder, but I'd really had enough of being herded around in a group. It's unavoidable sometimes but here was a way out.
So instead I hopped on a 36 hour train journey east from Chengdu to Wuxi.

The conductress for my carriage had it in for me, constantly checking me for my ticket. Surely as the only foreigner in her carriage, not to mention the whole 18 carriage train, I was kind of hard to forget! But enayone, folded up like a rag doll I stuffed myself into my middle bunk and sweated my way through the misty countryside.
The train started in Chengdu so people started getting on an hour or so before, worried that their reserved seats would be taken?!!!! The result being a nice steamy, smoky compartment.
The flashy flat screen tvs in each compartment showed ads, occasionally. Most disappointing as I was hoping for at least an installment of a samurai drama. There are dozens of them on tv, fabulous period costumes and sets, filmed on video with acting that makes Home and Away look good. But they kick butt, regularly, and are so hammed up that they're thoroughly enjoyable.
Wuxi isn't a town that's on most travellers itinerary I'm sure but I went there because English friends from Slovakia, the incomparable Helen and Andy, are now teaching there. Couldnt be in China and not go see them. It's a small city, of 4 million!!!, a nice modern downtown and near a huge lake.
At the city park I had an "only in China" experience. Nice park, temples, lake with pedal boats in the shape of giant swans and mini pagodas. The usual. On my way out I saw a giant gaping dragon's head. Had to investigate. Into a long dark, misty tunnel I went. Came to a room filled with pint sized terracotta warriors, with inane grins on their faces. No need to go to Xi'an!!!
The corridor stretched for miles underground, with rooms off to one side containing models of dinosaurs (complete with tacky sound effects), a Chinese looking Mary and Jospeh with donkey - and Ninja turtles!, giant vegetables with hands and happy faces. WHAT THE?!!!...... surreal to say the least.