There are 7 (or maybe 9) holy peaks in China. Perhaps a future mission to climb them all but for now I decided to settle for just one. Emei Shan, a mere 3077m high, with apparently amazing sunrises and sunsets, on the 2 days per year that it's clear enough to see them. We weren't there on one of those days but it was still breathtaking. Literally at that altitude!
We decided to be slightly lazy and take the bus to the top and walk down. We emptied most of the stuff from our packs but as we needed warm clothes, water and sleeping bags they were still quite heavy. After getting a cable car to the top we started the descent, a photo of white cloud to prove that we were there!!! The mountain is also famous for it's monkey, greedy little beggars that will attack anyone with evidence of food on them, as we saw happen to some stupid Chinese who were walking right next to us. We only get an abbreviated badly spelled warning sign and we knew better so I dont know what they were thinking.

Fortunately the crowds soon thinned out as we left the road and followed the stone path down through the thick lush rainforest. The mountain is dotted with monasteries, the rhythmic chanting of the monks drifting down the hill with us for a way.
The first afternoon we only walked 13km as the heavy rain made it quite slippery and unused muscles were reluctant to do their job. A little guy dragged us into his cafe shack around dinner time and we were easily persuaded to stay in one of his rooms. With an old monastery appearing and disappearing just below us in the mist it was quite a spot. And he was a fabulous chef. Whipped us up 3 or 4 different dishes, icy cold beer. What more could you want at the end of the day?! Felt a bit guilty about the beers though when we saw the tiny wiry porters trudging up the hill with baskets on their backs piled a mile high. It's the only way to get around on that side of the mountain. Even more amazing was the fact that they permanetly had a cigarette dangling out of the corner of their mouth!!!
Next day happily we had a lot more visibility and could better appreciate the soaring mountains and deep valley, threaded with waterfalls and crystal clear roaring mountain streams. The occasional winged rooftop of the next temple the only sign of human existence.
That day we managed 35kms. Down and down and down, then up and down again. Had a quick restorative feast at the Hard Wok Cafe, dashed through the Joking Monkey Zone and just made the last shuttle bus back to the village and a hot shower.
Took two days before I could walk without hobbling but it was worth it for the grandure and tranquilty of the mountain. We met hardly anyone, just a few monks doing a pilgrimage up to the top and a few other crazy Aussies and Brits. Not all of China is crowded and built up, as I was about to realise even more.