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July 21, 2004

Heading Off the Beaten Path

We're in Bangkok once again after our short respite on the island of Ko Chang. I can't quite claim that we had our fill of beaches, but we decided we should move on before we get completely sucked into the lifestyle of the beach bum.

A long standing problem on our trip is that some of it has felt a bit too planned, too thought out. In an effort to shake things up a little bit we decided to scrap what we had planned to do for the rest of our time in Thailand and head on over to Myanmar...

Myanmar, or Burma as it was once and occasionally still is known, is a country that has been largely forgotten by the rest of the world. Home to a brutal military government that regularly commits some of the world's worst abuses against humanity, Myanmar is a country that often polarizes travelers. Some would like a complete boycott against travel to the country, along with embargoes and boycotts of any foreign businesses that choose to set up shop. Others, like us, feel that more can be accomplished by the independent traveler who is cautious with where their money is being spent.

I'm writing this little introduction to Myanmar before we arrive because the internet is largely banned throughout the entire country. This is a country who's government is run much like George Orwell's 1984 and all of the newspapers and television stations are censored and filled with propaganda. Once we enter Myanmar we will probably be out of touch with the rest of the world until we come out again.

I hope to be able to write in more detail about our personal experiences after we've come out, but I thought some background would be helpful to my readers and perhaps even encourage some to try and help these people out. The recent history of Myanmar is very complicated, but I will touch on a few of the basic reasons why this country is ostracized and criticized by the rest of the world.

Myanmar is a former British colony that was a hotspot during WWII and made famous by the thousands who died there building the Burma Road. In 1990 Aung San Suu Kyi, daughter of a beloved independence hero, won the general elections and sought to lead the country to a better democratic society. The ruling military government ignored the election results and place Suu Kyi under house arrest. Suu Kyi has been under house arrest off and on ever since, even missing her husband's last days as he died in England from cancer. In 1991 Suu Kyi won the Nobel Peace Prize while the rest of the world either condemned, or more likely, forgot that Myanmar existed.

Myanmar holds the distinct dishonor of possessing the world's largest child army with over 40,000 children forced into serving in the military. The government also utilizes slavery in order to build much of its tourist infrastructure and has even gone as far as to use villagers to find landmines -- by lining them up and having them march across fields. Myanmar is a highly fractured land and the government spends most of its time trying hold its fragile borders together.

A country rich in natural resources (Burmese rubies and sapphires are considered the best in the world), Myanmar now wallows in poverty. Many go hungry and healthcare is limited. The cause of this has a great deal to do with the boycotts and embargoes the rest of the world has placed on the country in order to destabilize the corrupt government. While this is good in theory, it is the people who suffer while waiting for their government to eventually give in.

The reason why many people think travel to Myanmar should be avoided is that it provides desperately needed hard currency to the government. On the other hand, many human rights activists feel that the tourist industry is one of the few places that ordinary Burmese people can make money and that the smart tourist can avoid giving money to government owned enterprises. In addition, by talking to local people, travelers can show the Burmese that they have not been forgotten by the rest of the world and that people still care about their plight.

Reading all this, it probably sounds like we're heading to a very dangerous place. However, everything we've read and heard from others say that Myanmar is a beautiful land full of friendly people, despite the horrors they live through. The government is extremely careful to keep tourists safe since they're desperate for cash. It is the local people who are in the most danger.

We're looking forward to the trip very much. It has long been at the top of the list of places I'd hoped to visit. If you're interested in learning more about Myanmar, a few internet searches and trips to the library will provide a wealth of information and contacting your local politicians to make certain they also understand what is going on can go a long way towards helping these tortured people.

-- Shawn

Posted by kobb on July 21, 2004 11:01 PM
Category: Myanmar (Burma)
Comments

Shawn,

I cannot begin to express how jealous I am that you are going to Myanmar. I have read of the abuse of the people by the government for years, but have always wanted to see for myself what a beautiful land it is. Have fun, be safe, and share with us all the wonders that await us when we visit Myanmar.

Brian

Posted by: Brian on July 22, 2004 07:11 PM

Can't wait to hear about Myanmar. Having never done a long trip myself....I'm also curious about "travel fatique" in general. Hope things are going well.

Travis

Posted by: Travis on July 25, 2004 05:55 PM

Hi guys!

Reading your entries is a truly unique experience. Life in Portland on a sunny day in the carriage house seems a bit far removed from the mass adventure you are on. On the other big American hand, it is great fun read about your exploits, the geckos and the rich descriptions of travel. (Your description of fellow travelers sounds far too much like Eugene to me; are you sure you just didn't make a wrong turn on I-5 and are lost at the Eugene Saturday Market?)

Missing you both, hope you are well, keep writing.

love,
Gus & Walt the Cat

Posted by: Gus on July 27, 2004 02:15 PM

hi guys, just thought I should make myself visible to let you know that I've been enjoying the blog quite a lot. Looking forward to reading about Burma (Myanmar... the name as it is now doesn't evoke as much adventure as Burma. Buurmaaaa)

Posted by: lets on July 30, 2004 04:10 AM

Shawn and Jennifer!
I am thrilled to hear that you are finally on your trip. It does seem like you've been planning it forever and I'm glad you're letting some of that go to the wind as you venture off.

I enjoyed your post about the packs, and that's great that it was an "almost" scenario. Have a wonderful time. I look forward to catching up with you when you return.

PS-have a banana pancake with chocolate sauce for me. :-)

Posted by: Jen Leo on July 31, 2004 07:15 PM

Hi Shawn and Jennifer,

I've been reading your blog on and off now for a while. I can't wait to read about your travels in Myanmar. I'm sure it will be a wild ride. Have fun!

Posted by: Christina on July 31, 2004 07:29 PM

Okay, so I just tried to post this to the previous journal entry, but I got told that "comments are not allowed".... so, I'll put it here.... I can't wait to see how things go in Myanmar!.....

Damn, woman! You go girl! :-D

Hey there Jennifer Witty.... (I still can't break myself of that habit!) It's so good to see you being a bad-ass when necessary. ;-) Tee hee! I'm SOOOO relieved there are good people in this world who had the mental/logical capacity to figure out when # of bags is > # of people = more people are bound to come looking for said excess bags! Thank goodness those fellow travelers held onto them for you!

Well, Shawn & Jennifer, somehow, I managed to blink and three months have gone by! So, I've spent the afternoon reading all your entries... what a crazy time you've had! It's pretty phenomenal to read (what I'm sure is just a small sampling of) your adventures in travel.

I know I've said it many times, but I think that you guys are just totally awesome. This is such a terrific adventure you have set out upon... More power to you!

Much love, support, and excitement your way!!! I'll try to not blink nearly so long next time! LOL

-- Jennifer

Posted by: Bowman on August 1, 2004 01:44 PM
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