Arriving in Laos after several weeks in China is an altogether different sort of shock. Compared to where we were in China, their are hordes and hordes of Western travelers here. So far we've been to Luang Prabang and are now in Vang Vieng, two of the most popular backpacker destinations in Laos, and we've seriously seen more white people walking the streets than Laos.

Luang Prabang was a nice respite in our travels. As I said, it is quite touristy and it takes a little getting used to the sea of white faces, but it does still manage to retain a great deal of its own heritage. In fact, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The town is small and dotted with temples that you are free to explore, although you feel a bit self-conscience as all the monks that live there watch you walk about.

We spent several nights in the town just exploring and kicking back. The heat...oh my, the heat. We were forced to sacrifice the afternoon and just hide in our room with our duel fans and wait for the heat to subside. The temperatures probably hovered at around 90 everyday with a humidity level to match. Luckily for us, the heat drove us to find the best and most bizarre retreat in Laos.

Our base of operations in Luang Prabang became the Cruisin Gate, a local gay bar with the best happy hour I've ever seen. Cocktails are a dollar and shots are $.20 and, get this, all the drinks are two for one. Our first day there, Jennifer and I had far too much too drink and it cost us $1.30. With the rainbow lights, effiminate Lao men, one odd Swedish guy that worked there and Whitney Houston cover songs, it definitely goes down as one of our odder experiences.

We took a half day to visit a local set of waterfalls outside Luang Prabang. It was a long dusty ride in the back of a pickup to get there, but it was certainly worth it. Winding trails follow the water as it falls over various cascades and forms turquoise blue swimming holes. These eventually lead to a cliff of around a hundred feet that has dozens of small falls tumbling over the edge. We hiked about half way up along some treacherous paths and often close to knee deep in water, but it was a wonderful experience.

We've left Luang Prabang now and headed south to Vang Vieng, a place we had read was a big backpacker hang out. I don't think we were prepared for what we'd find. The town consists of a few crumbled streets lined only with Internet cafes and restaurant/bars that serve Western food and play endless American movies, many of which are still in the theaters. As it has poured rain constantly since we arrived, these restaurants are about the only thing we can go to, as it is just too wet to get to the area caves for exploration. If the weather doesn't change we probably won't stay here long. It is relaxing in its own way, but not at all Laos.

It is easy to blame all of the tourists for turning what was once probably a very real Lao town into a backpacker ghetto. There is certainly some truth to that, but I think it is a little too PC to blame only the Westerners. The Laos want to escape the poverty their country is steeped in and they're all too willing to serve pancakes and play "Kill Bill 2" on an endless loop if that brings in the dollars. We will try to enjoy this minor escape, but I think we will move on soon.

Next we head to the capital of Laos, Vientiene. We've been told there isn't a whole lot to do there so we're not sure how long we'll stay. Of course, it seems we tend to stay longest in places we're told there is nothing to do. Usually, that means a lack of backpacker cafes, but no shortage of interesting, traditional back alleys to explore. Our problem is that our visa is only 15 days long, too short for real exploration off the main route, but too long for just the easily accessible towns. I think we will probably hit Thailand before long and, with the thought of warm beaches, I don't think I mind.

-- Shawn