Our trip from the Chilean border through Bolivia to Arequipa, Peru, took about 36 hours on various qualities of transport modes. But arrive we did in the beautiful colonial town. Basically there were five more adventures we planned on for Peru, the Arequipa area held two – seeing the Andean condors and a bit of mountaineering. To see the condors independent of a tour group meant we would have to limit ourselves to only one partial night in a bed and leave Arequipa on a 1:30 am local bus to be at the viewing area by dawn. The bus let us off on a dark cliff side at about 6:30 am with a group of local vendors. We huddled behind whatever we could find to keep out of the freezing wind, hoping for the morning sun’s warm rays. You know how if you stand and watch the kettle boil it seems to take for ever? Well this is the same thing: it took an eternity for the black line between mountain peak and starry sky to be erased. Ever so slowly the mountainside brightened down into the deep gorge to where a white cloudy mist settled. From what we gathered, this is the second deepest gorge in the world, (though we doubt this after visiting Nepal), and when the sun melts the mist below the condors are to awaken from their nests and soar on the warm thermals inches from our heads on the very wind-swept cliff we were perched. All of this was to be done in time for us to catch the 11 am bus back to Arequipa. Well let me tell you the heat never came, the mist actually crept up the mountain side engulfing us in its freezing shawl, the birds never flew and the homeward bus didn’t show until noon. If it sounds like it sucked, good, because it did.

We got back to Arequipa in time for a good night’s sleep for our second adventure – summiting a 6100 meter mountain called Chachani. I believe there is no mountain this tall in Canada, but this was supposed to be pretty straight forward. In Arequipa we were already up over 3000 meters, we would drive to 4500 meters, trek our gear to 5300 meters, set up camp and then mountaineer the last 800 meters, leaving camp at 2am. The drive up through the barren Andes was great and our trek up to our ´base camp` with 20kg was good but hot and tiring as the sun was blazing and the thin air made it demanding.

We set up our camp under brilliant sunshine with smiles on our faces. Then the clouds chased our warmth and smiles away. The first freezing rain shower chased us into our sleeping bags with frowns on our faces. The first couple of inches of snow allowed regret to creep into our minds. We were to eat a light meal and retire early, allowing ourselves to acclimatize to the high altitude and then begin our summit at 2am. The temperature plummeted with the howling wind and snow and a restless sleep ensued.

We emerged from our frigid cocoons at 1am to warm coca tea and frozen bread under a clearing sky. This time of year the existing snow softens during the warm days and hardens like rock during the chilly nights allowing for easy hiking on this hard surface. The fresh snowfall on top of the soft snow would make for a difficult summit. We started out bundled in our rented snow gear, boots, and gaiters through a rock garden under the light of our headlamps and fleeting stars. When the clouds parted it gave us a glimpse of stars we had never been closer to or seen as clearly. The route up to a 5600 meter saddle between two peaks, one of which we would skirt around, took a lot of energy and time as each step sunk us to our knees and sometimes to our crotch. Once on the saddle we met a harder surface which allowed us to put our crampons on our feet and make pretty good time but within another hour we had to be roped together, were using our ice axes, and were trudging through some deep crap on a very steep slope with only blackness below. After three hours of climbing, we were behind schedule and with seven to nine more hours in front of us, we decided to turn back. Our guide fully supported this move and was not comfortable with the conditions. Once back at the saddle under warm morning skies, the guide offered me a chance to summit a lower yet more technical mountain. Brandy would follow our previous trail back to the tents that could be seen from our location and we would make a quick summit of two hours. Guide Herman set a blistering pace and my lungs burned to keep up to him in the lessening atmosphere. Our ice axes were required to climb the last 150 meters to the summit but we made it!

After getting back to camp we rested briefly, packed our gear and hiked down to the snowless 4500 meter level to await the truck. While it was a real experience and one I enjoyed, let me tell you Brandy did not like even a second of it and was a trooper beyond belief for my sake but she vows that as far as mountaineering goes, that was the last time.

After all that we had an overnight bus to Nazca. I was so wiped out from the climb that our bus was thoroughly searched, stuff thrown out the window, by the police and I never stopped snoring. We got to Nazca by 7am and started searching for a good deal on an early morning flight in a five seat plane that would give us a tour of the Nazca Lines and figures. The rectangular ´landing strips`, directional lines and figures (hummingbird, dog, parrot, spaceman and others) are so huge you can only see them clearly from a plane. No one knows for sure why these ancient lines and symbols were made but let me tell you, they are as clear as day and huge. They lie on a table-flat, rocky desert with miles separating each one. There is lots of speculation about the why’s, I personally like the alien explanation, but it was really incredible to see them, especially from the air.

After 45 minutes in the air, we were soon back on another bus that would take us close to the Pacific Coast and to the world’s highest sand dunes. We were dumped in the oasis town of Huacachina that looked really like an oasis you would see on TV with mountain-sized orange and yellow sand dunes surrounding a palm tree ringed little lake. We found a cheap place with a pool and sat pool side watching the sun set on these sandy mammoths to the blissful tones of Guns n Roses that blared around the pool deck. The next morning after a hearty breakfast at poolside we set out for our real reason for being here - sandboarding! Snowboarding on sand! We rented two boards and started the blistering climb to the top. We were drenched in sweat by the time we got up there so the sand was just sticking to us. We oiled up the base of our boards and tried some runs down into a small bowl. Then we were ready for the big face. Basically you just point your board straight down the hill and go for it. Now it is not like ripping it up on the snow but it was fun and a great experience. It took a very long shower to get all the sand out from every nook and cranny.

So back on a bus to the capital Lima, only four hours this time, where we quickly checked into a hotel and set off to the cliffs over the Pacific that Lima is perched on. Lima is a really pretty city along the coast and the area we stayed in had a long park at the edge of the cliff that looked down on kilometres of beach with lots of surfers enjoying the endless waves. We had come for the paragliding which looked as if it would be spectacular off the cliff and then over the ocean to the beach. But the weather was not on our side. While it was sunny and warm, not warm enough to create an onshore breeze that is required. We still very much enjoyed Lima with its colonial squares and buildings. We visited old churches and monasteries where they buried people in mass graves in creepy catacombs. We spent Valentine’s Day evening in Lima They really get into it there with outdoor dancing and singing and other romantic festivities such as making out in the park.

So far South America has been a trip highlight but we are off to Panama next to see what adventures Central America holds.

Adios for now…

KLH

Congratulations to Garry and Marisa who just welcomed their first child, Gordon (as if either of you will ever have time to read this blog again!).

And a big hello (zdravstvuite) to Brandy’s new little brother Dima who recently arrived from Russia. We are looking forward to meeting you soon!

Photos:
At Condor Gorge
Condor Sighting
Climbing - Day One
Our Camp
2am
It´s not as much fun as it looks...
Kevin Summits
Post Climb Beverage - Arequipa
Nazca Figure and Highway - Hands
Our Plane and Pilot
Poolside at Oasis
Sandflying = Broken Sunglasses
Kevin Rides
Brandy Rides