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October 13, 2004

Pula

I know that as travellers, we go to all the touristy places. It is actually quite a disgrace being seen as a "tourist" as opposed to a "traveller" in this little network of round the world travellers. But I personally believe that a tourist destination is made a tourist destination for a reason.... because of some natural beauty, history, or other event of significance. So I knew to expect greatness coming to the little coastal city of Pula.... but I have been floored yet again.
Finally arriving last night, the evening brought more frustration though trying to negotiate private accomodation with an older Croatian woman who did not speak English and who was trying to rip us off. 60 Euro for a cruddy 70's bedroom and a stinky shared bathroom... I think NOT! Luckily, we won and price was reduced by half! Beer was needed after that, but all the freakin' bars closed at 11:00. Luckily I got a few down before bedtime and slept well.
This morning, I awoke early and took a short stroll though the vegetable market. Still feeling a little woozie, I had two cappacino's and an apple strudle (the pastries here are wonderful!) and I was ready to go!
Seeing the ancient Roman ruins and the later midevil ruins in Pula was nothing short of magnificent! The amazingly old Temple of Augustus, an ancient Roman church (barely standing), an 18th century castle built on a hill with a moat, ruins of a Roman theater, and then the collosal, the downright awesome ancient Roman ampitheater.... supposedly the best preserved ampitheater that exists.... well, I must say, the hellacious travel day was worth it.
I can't even begin to convey the spine tingling, goose bump feeling I got walking into the ampitheater. It was surreal.... it was something out of the movie "Gladiator"... like when Maximus enters the arena for the first time. Eyes wandering around 360 degrees. The blood that was spilled. The Emperors that sat there. The thousands of Roman civilians that packed the stadium seats screaming for death. The chambers carved beneath the earth that held wild animals and served as entrances for the fighting and exits for the dead. I was standing amongst the history of one of the greatest empires of all time.... and I felt extremely privileged.
What's funny is the European non chalantness (sp?) with which the ruins are treated. The castle, the crumbling Roman theater... feel free to climb all over them. They are all overgrown with bushes, broken glass litters the ground. It's like nothing to these people. It's something they see every day. A part of their history that is so common and familiar, it is either taken for granted or it's just not that significant. That said, I love being able to climb around, explore, to see things from the perspective in which I want without the watchful eye of some power hungry security guard. It's just sad to see graffiti on ancient Roman arches.
Going to Trieste, Italy tomorrow!
This little town on the coast

Posted by Erin on October 13, 2004 07:41 AM
Category: 06 Croatia
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