Wrong again: Andros does have a vampire tradition. I was leafing through Theodore Bent's classic travel book about the Cyclades recently and it leapt out at me. The Albanian villages in the North of Andros, particularly Arni, had many stories of the undead in the 19th Century. Theodore Bent describes an old Arvanitiki (Albanian) wife relaying the story of a girl who had been buried. Her bones rattled (or was it the coffin that rattled?) and the poor old dear could hear them. The villagers opened the grave and found that the girl's skin was still intact and had a waxy complexion, so they had to put a stake through her heart. Hm, I'd better quadruple check this story, because Theodore Bent will be turning in his grave if I got the story muddled. So, after checking with the book, the beautiful village of Arni will be one of the first on my list when I arrive on the shores of Andros this year.