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Archive for February, 2008

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Football and Elections

Tuesday, February 5th, 2008

We are once again stuck in Douala after spending 3+ days on the coast in Limbe where it was nice to relax, but a bit boring.  Douala is a bit boring, too, and it is easy to see why it is not a major travel destination.  Yesterday we visited the central market and it was by far the best market scene I have seen in Afica or Latin America.  The people are exceptionally friendly and they had a lot of unusual things for sale such as the red palm oil that they produce and consume in huge volumes, odd-looking vegetables and fruits and plant materials such as bark, traditional medicines, and animal parts as well as the normal stuff like clothes, chickens, goats, pineapples, etc.  I was definitely the freak of the market and people loved saying hello to me.  Pam got a good view of what it is like to be mzungu in a local situation in Africa and she thought all of the attention was fun.  It is fun!  We struggled trying to find out what some of the odd stuff is used for, but there are a surprising number of Cameroonians that speak English well to help us through the questions and answers.  Two guys got me to try chewing a bark that has some medicinal properties and it was horrible, but it definitely affected my head even after spitting it out after a couple of minutes.  I could not find bushmeat for sale, but I did find stalls selling animal parts such as tortoise shells, forest animal skins and snake skins including one that we opened up that was a python that was about five meters in length.  We only scratched the surface of this huge market in over three hours and we will go back if this Douala episode continues.  We are supposedly leaving the city by plane on Thursday for the northern part of the country, but who knows since we are in the Cameroon twilight zone.

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Cameroon to CAR

Sunday, February 3rd, 2008

I decided to go back and re-read what I wrote about my last visit to Central African Republic’s (CAR) Dzanga-Ndoki National Park.  Unfortunately, all I found is tales about the trip from Brazzaville, Republic of Congo (ROC) into Northern ROC.  Then I remembered my five day trip out of this area and back to Vermont and how burned out I was by all of it.  I could not find the time or energy to go back to ROC and CAR and so the tales about rivers, river people, forests and forest people were never told.  I still remember that trip well and although the travel was very difficult, the experience was top-notch.  In particular, the forest people, Ba’Aka, were the highlight.  That was because all I could see when we first met them was a pathetic lot of malnourished, out-of-place people, but when we entered the forest with them a remarkable transformation occurred and they became in my mind the most amazing people I have seen.  The Ba’Aka have essentially lost their home, the Congo forests, and these nomadic, hunters and gatherers have been forced into a sedentary life in Bantu river people villages.  This transformation was so magical and such a slap-in-the-face for my pre-judgement (in reality, they really are pathetic out of the forest), I decided this year to make another difficult trip to see these amazing people in a much more in-depth manner.

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