The air in Afghanistan
I WROTE THIS ABOUT A WEEK AGO….unfortunately, the predictions that the violence is coming close to Kabul came true about three days ago—with three bombings in one day–. However, for the time being all is well.
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There is something about this country that makes everyone fall in love with it. It can’t be the water, because most people drink bottled water… must be the air…the one common denominator. My other thought it that it must be the intense amount of passion in the air. It seems everyone in Afghanistan is ready to die for what they believe in. There are two main kinds of people a)the suicide bombers and Islamic fundamentalist that are ready to die, kill for what they believe in b) the engineers of development that are putting their lives at risk daily for what they believe in—the reconstruction of this country. And then there are those who want to understand what makes these people go this far.
One of our schools was rocketed two days ago. An Aid Afghanistan school in Wardak, west of Kabul, was rocketed by the Taliban who have really increased their attacks—To find Wardak pronounced by the Iranians as Vardak and sometime spelt as Vardak, look at Kowt e Ashrow province close to Kabul on the map enclosed. http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/middle_east_and_asia/afghanistan.jpg
People are a little uncomfortable with the increased Taliban attack in Wardak because it so close to Kabul. The principle at Wardak had observed the insurgency rising over time and actually the recent rocketing marks the second in about two weeks. We have decided to close down the school and the girls will have to stay home. Hassina has decided to create a “mobile library” so that the girls can keep reading in order to retain all that has been gained in the last 4 years.
Amad, my co-worker went to Baghran, Pol e Khomri, north of Kabul, to get some supplies for Boumi the textile factory/ design firm, my other engagement. He came back with reports that at 1:30 am he was awoken in his hotel. The guards asked to search him and his room because they were in pursuit of suicide bombers in the hotel. Amad says, as they searched him, they found three of them in the adjoining room. What was Amad’s response, “ahh, it is no problem, it is everyday here in Afghanistan.”
The American University is slated to open a campus in Afghanistan, www.auaf.edu.af. “Bill” the director came to pay us a visit and informed us of a car bomb in the outskirts of Kabul that was stalling traffic. During our conversation, “Bill” explained the skeletal security measures which he takes—which as an American is very inadequate.
I asked “Bill” if the bombing in Wardak, the suicide bomber in Pol e Khomri and the car bomb that stalled traffic made him want to go back home. “No”, he said. “I have waited 35 years to come to Afghanistan; nothing is going to make me leave.”
One must have a sense of dedication to Afghanistan to survive the harrowing tales of rockets, bombs, suicide bombers. These are lunch time conversations. We literality sit on the lunch table and talk about the events happening that seem to be creeping closer to Kabul. Yet no one is concerned. My boss’ reaction to this was to buy walkie-talkies so in case something erupts, and the phone lines are down, we can communicate with other. There is an uncanny sense of calm among all the people who I have encountered here, Afghans and expats. Life goes on, entrepreneurs keep setting up businesses, they have dreams to expand, aid-workers live here with their families and some plan to remain.
So not only do people in Afghanistan, locals and foreigners alike, fall in love with the country, there is also something about the people (especially foreigners and Afgan in the diaspora) it attracts that defy all odds and dare to dream.
I wonder how far I will go for what I believe….
Tags: Travel
szmakka
Dear SErah- Thank you again for your courage. Your reports are riveting and give me a feel of your on the ground experience.
Blessings. Nancy