Steve’s Travel Blog

Hello all,

Well my final journey in Australia is now complete.  When I wrote last I was in Broome and it was a nice little town.  It was pretty rainy when I was there but it made for some incredible thunder and lighting storms.  I was able to catch a ride out of Broome on Monday the 9th with 2 Aussie blokes.  I had met Jake a few days earlier at the backpackers and we were both helping each other to find a ride.  Brodie contacted Jake first and then me and we made our plans.  We got out of Broome at about 10am and started on our way.Brodie had a small van with all the camping gear we would need for the trip.  There are not a lot of stops along the road so we figured camping would be the best option.  Brodie drove for about 2 hours and then I took over for about another 2.  The van has a mind of its own and no mater how hard you push on the gas pedal it goes the speed it wants to, which is usually between 80-90.  It was kind of disappointing seeing the speed limit signs at 130 knowing that we were never getting close to that speed.  On one downhill we topped out at 112!!!  After a quick lunch Jake hopped behind the wheel and drove to Halls Creek about 3 hours away.  We stopped to pick up some supplies and then drove about 10minutes out of town and stopped at a truckers roadside turnout.  We cooked up some chops and salad for supper and sat around and bull shitted for most of the evening.  Brodie slept in the van and Jake and I slept in a tent.  We thought we had a great spot until all the trucks started pulling in and not turning off their trucks or the noise from the generators on the back of them.  It was pretty noisy which was okay and did not bother me to much but the heat in the tent was crazy.  It had been about 38 degrees during the day and did not seem to cool down a lot during the night.  After a restless sleep we were all up at about 6:30 and after some breakfast we were on the road by 7am.  Brodie ended up driving the whole day even though we had offered to take the wheel for a while.  He drove to Kununarra and stopped at the dam for a few photos along the Ord river and then again for a huge Moab tree.  Once we got into town we picked up some more supplies (ice & beer) and gas and continued on our way.  We made a detour to Lake Argyle that Jake had heard was really nice.  It was a really big lake and and it looked awesome.  Since we had gone a while without a shower, a swim was a definite must. We stopped at the little campground first to ask if it was safe to swim in and were told that if we stayed to the one area then all is good. The other parts do have Salt Water Crocs and we did not want to see them.  After a very refreshing swim we got back in the van and put on some more miles. It was not long and we left Western Australia and crossed into the Northern Territory.  We drove until dusk and pulled into a regular roadside turnout this time instead of one for the truckers.  We got set up and had a few drinks in the process.  I cooked up some steaks and veggies for supper.  After Brodies long drive he was pretty tired and went to bed early.  Jake and I pulled out my computer and watched Eddie Murphy Raw until the battery died.  It ended up been early to bed for us as well as it was only 9pm and nothing else to do.

With the early bed time we were all up by 6am and on the road by 6:30.  In the morning we drove to Katherine with a few picture stops along the way.  Once we got to Katherine I was all for getting to Darwin since I had seen all the stuff from Katherine to Darwin already.  I thought the others might want to see Katherine Gorge and a fewother sights but the past and we headed for Darwin.  We got in at around 4pm and Jake and I checked into the YHA, Brodie called his fiend and went to stay with him.  I so wanted to have a shower but that would have to wait for a bit.  When I checked in I only had enough cash for the room and  nothing left for the key deposit.  I hoped they would just let me get in the room and then go get more cash and pay them then.  That did not happen and I had to put my bags in the lockup and get cash before they gave me a room key.  I put my bags in the lockup and started walking out when the girl asked for the key to the lockup back but I said I did not have it and the room was unlocked.  She said that I took it and I had to go and find it, so I went back to the lockup to look for this key and could not find it anywhere.  I went back to her and said again that I did not use it and she said that it is a big key and hard to loose (it was attached to this big crocodile thing) and I needed to look again.  I was getting pretty irritated since I was sure that I had not used but went to look again.  After another minute of looking I could hear her yelling to me that she had found it.  It had been sitting on her side of the desk the whole time.  I left rather quickly to get some cash before i really lost it.  I got back and got my key and went and had a great cold shower.  I chilled out for most of the evening but did go for a walk and picked up a few groceries for breakfast.

The next few days were very similar.  Wake up around 8:30 and have a great fruit salad for breakfast and then wander down to the library for some free internet.  I had chats with lots of different people during the time but most of it was spent doing research on South East Asia, my next destination.

On Friday I made my decision on where to start the next part of my travels and booked a flight to Dili, East Timor.  i was also able to book a place to stay in Dili for the first few nights and so I was set.  I leave for Dili on Wednesday November 18th.  The rest of the day was spent continuing to do research and getting ready to go.  I met up with Jake later in the afternoon and a friend of his, Josh.  They are traveling together going south to Uluru and Adelaide.  They are buddies from home and had made a big bucket of punch and were on their way to getting drunk.  I had a few glasses with them but did not intend to get to drunk.  I was successful at staying relatively sober but I maybe should have got drunk.  There was a new guy in the dorm room for this night (a Canadian from Van. Island) and he had some bad dreams.  He was talking in his sleep saying “help me, please help me” 2 of us got up but he was asleep.  We did not know what to do so we left him and tried to fal asleep.  The next morning I chilled out at the hostel and got some extra sleep since not much was gotten during the night.  In the afternoon I meet up with Jake and Brodie and we went on a fishing charter.  It was the same type of charter that I went on the last time I was here but I wanted to go again.  There were a total of 11 of us on the boat and the fishing was pretty slow.  I caught 5 fish (only 2 keepers), Brodie got 6-7 (1 keeper) and Jake got 2-3 (no keepers).  It was enough to feed us for the evening but a bit disappointing since the last time I was here I got about 15 fish.  We did the fish on the BBQ and they tasted great, we also had some salad and garlic bread to go with it.  I chilled for most of the evening and found a new book to read, another Girsham novel.  THe nights have been entertaining with the sleep talker in the room.  He has now started to kick the wall and bed and last night he was spitting at the wall.  He even got up at one point and called out for Charles and then went back into bed and kicked for a while again.  We talked with him about it and he does not remember a thing.  He told us that it started a few weeks ago when he was working on a Mango farm and has not stopped.  He apologized to us and I really do feel sorry for him cause I think he is a bit embarrassed about it.

The last few days have been spent chatting with friends and family on the internet about Australia and my new adventure coming up in South East Asia.  I did another walk around Darwin to check out the sites again and just took it easy.  I have continued to do research on SEA and feel very prepared to go.  I would have to say that I am excited but also a bit nervous as well.  You all know that i do not really travel with a plan and I am continuing with that but i have figured out at least a possible route for the first bit.   I fly into Dili and will spend some time around there and talk with the hostel and tour people on what there is to see.  From there i am thinking of busing it toKupang in West Timor which is part of Indonesia.  I want to stop in Lombok, Gili Islands, Borneo, Bali and Jakarta in Indonesia before going to Malaysia, Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam.  I have no idea how long this is going to take but I would imagine 6-9 months at least.  I have talked with a few friends that might meet me along the way and that would be great and i am sure I will meet new friends as well.

After just over 7 months in Australia it feels a little strange to leave.  I know that I am ready to go but it has been such a great country with spectacular sights and so many great people.  I would like to thank all the friends that I met along the way in Oz for a fabulous time.  I traveled with so many different people in Oz and saw so many different places.  To think that I put on about 25,000 kms in the past 7 months and have been almost everywhere in Australia, some places even twice and Melbourne 3 times. It was definitely MEJ!!!!  Thanks to all!!!

Now on to my next adventure in South East Asia!!!

We will talk to you all soon,

Steve

Hello all,

Well it has been 2 weeks since my last blog and I have gone about 2500kms up the west coast of Australia.  I traveled with Saskia and Colin for the whole trip and today both are leaving to head back for Perth as I make plans to continue north.

Our trip started on October 24^th when Colin picked us up at the hostel with his van that his nephew had named Philmore.  We drove to Numberg National Park and what they call the Pinnacles Desert.  It reminded me of the termite mounds that I saw in Litchfield but the Pinnacles are Limestone rock formations and not made by termites.  The area is quite vast with many formations but it is also very touristy and had lots of people around.  From the Pinnacles we went to Kangaroo Point in hopes of seeing some kangaroos on the beach but there were none there.  It was a very nice beach and we just hung out for a while.  We then made our way to Lake Thetis which is known for Statolamites, which are like live rocks.  It did not look like much but we saw it anyway.  It was time to make it to a hostel for the night and we went to Cervantes Lodge where we cooked some supper and then taught Colin how to play Bohnanza.  Good thing I got this game from Felix as I seem to be playing it all the time and having lots of fun with it.

The next day we were on the road at 10am and stopped at 2 lookouts (Molar Hill and Grigson) that gave a great look of the area.  We drove on and stopped at a town called Geraldton.  We stopped to pick up some groceries and a look at their famous St. Francis Xavier Cathederal.  We then drove on to Kalbarri for the night.  We did a BBQ for supper and then chilled out from a long drive that day.  We woke up to a big rain storm in the morning and not sure what to do.  We waited the rain out in the morning and then headed out to see some of the sites along the coast.  Our first stop was the Natural Bridge and Island Rock.  It was an awesome place to listen to the ocean and spot whales.  We saw at least 6 or seven while at this spot alone and many more the rest of the day.  We then did a 3.4km hike along the coast to Shell House Grandstand which was another lookout and along the way we saw lots of kangaroos.  We then went to Rainbow Valley and did the walk to Mushroom Rock which is a big rock the looks like a (I bet your thinking mushroom) well you are right.  It actually was not that impressive but the whole coast is very impressive.  Our final stop for the day was at Red Bluff and the views were amazing.  We were very lucks as a pod of whales came by when we were there and a baby was breaching and a couple others were doing a bunch of tail slaps.  The whales were about 200 meters out but the slaps were very loud and could be easily heard. We were the only ones there and once some others showed up the whales were leaving, what great timing we had.  Very MEJ!!!  It was back to our hostel in Kalbarri for the night and time to chill out.  It is a little quiet right now as it is the start of the slow season to go north and not that many people are around.  There is one tour group that has ended the same places we have been and they are paying $2500 for 10 days to get to Broome.  It is costing each of us about $50 per day instead of being on a bus and rushing thru everything.  The next morning we made our way to Kalbarri National Park and it was time for some hiking. We started with the loop walk and to Natures Window.  It is the first part of an 8km hike along the gorge.  It was a really good hike and very warm.  The weather is getting a lot warmer as we move north and we made sure we had lots of water for the hike and used it all.  After a quick lunch we drove to another hike called the Z Bend Gorge and a 2.6km hike straight down the gorge through rock formations.  It was almost like caving except above ground.  We were told that at the bottom are great pools to go for a swim but all we could find were pools that were knee high.  When we got back to the top I went to the lookout as well and got a great view of the actual Z bend. It reminded me a bit of Kings Canyon but just not as spectacular.  It was nice to get in some exercise and we were all very tired at the end of the day.  Back to Kalbarri for the night, supper and time to chill out.  An Australian guy came with us on the hike and asked if he could join us for the next few days until we got to Exmouth where he grew up.  We all agreed that it saved us gas money and invited him along.

The next morning we left Kalbarri at 10am and headed to the Hamelin Pools where we found more Statolamites and these ones were much more impressive.  This was also an old telegraph station but it looked like most of the stuff was closed for the season and we could not get into any of the buildings.  We made our way up the highway and stopped at Shell Beach. The beach was really cool and made up of very tiny shells.  The water was a very clear blue and a great place to relax for a while and take a break from driving.  Colin and Saskia ended up in a water fight where they both ended up in the water.  After they changed clothes we made our way to Denham to pick up some groceries and then out to Monkey Mia.  On our drive there was a big group of Emus on the road and a few lizards in another spot.  We chilled out with a few drinks with some of the people we had met through the first few days and keep on running into.  There are not many choices along the west coast so you end up seeing the same people all the time.  Monkey Mia is known for one thing and that is Dolphins.  The dolphins come right up to the beach every morning for a small feed and a little interaction with humans.  They used to feed them a lot and touch them but all this stopped in the early 70’s as they found out what they were doing is harming them.  Now they only feed them a few fish and no touching is aloud.  They allow you to walk into the water to about knee high and the dolphins swim right in front of you.  It was really cool to see them that close.  I was not picked to feed them but I don’t think I would have anyway.  After the dolphins Saskia and I went on a 1.5km very boring nature hike.  The cool thing about the hike was that you could the difference between the red sand inland and the white sand on the beach.  There was a stop to look at all the different birds but there were none around, but we did see another emu and a lizard.  We met up with the others on the beach and just sat in the sun for a while.  In the afternoon our plan was to drive 3 hours to Carnarvon with a stop at Eagle bluff where we could see sharks swimming in the water below.  Carnarvon was supposed to be a bigger town and a few more things to do.  We got into town and there was a big 4wd event going on and all the hostel beds were booked and the caravan parks were full.  We then decided to go all the way to Coral Bay which meant driving some in the dark.  We all kept our eyes on the road and it was a good thing because there were lots of kangaroos and cows on the road.  We had to drive slower and this meant that we did not get there until almost 8pm.  We got booked into a hostel and then went out for some food because no one felt like cooking.  I was not feeling that well but still hung out with the group for the evening and played some pool and table tennis with Colin.  I had a really good sleep that night and woke up recharged and ready to take on the day.  Coral Bay is the gateway to the Ningaloo Reef.  Many say that this reef is better than the Great Barrier Reef on the East Coast but the part I saw I would not agree with that comment.  The reef was really cool and was all hard coral.  There is no soft coral on this reef and not that much color.  The reef formations were a lot bigger than at Great Barrier and you barely had to leave the beach to see it.  Colin and I rented snorkeling gear and went for a swim, I got a noodle to help me float as you all know I cannot swim that well.  It was lots of fun and we stayed out for almost an hour and saw a big turtle and tons of different fish. We sat on the beach for a while and then went back to the hostel for some lunch.  We chilled out for the afternoon and evening and met a few of the other backpackers (Antje from Germany, Emily from the UK and Ashley from Alaska) and had some drinks with them. It was Friday night so we decided to check out the local bar but it was closed when we got there.  A few hung out at the beach for a while and others like me went back to the hostel and hung there.  The morning was spent at the beach with some tanning and water volleyball with our new friends.  My tan is looking great again but I am watching very closely not to get burnt with all the sun that is here.  Every day is around 30 degrees right now and it will only get warmer.  In the afternoon we took the short drive to Exmouth and found a bigger grocery store and got some food and an ATM for some money.  The evening was spent chilling and playing Bohnanza again.

In the morning we were on our way to Cape Range National Park.  We drove right to the end of the park and Yardie Creek.  Here we hiked 1.3km along the gorge which looked like some splashed white paint all over the place.  Most of the other gorges and rocks I have seen have been in layers but this was different and cool to see.  The gorge itself was not that big and we were only allowed to hike certain parts and that is why it was such a short walk.  From Yardie Creek we went to Turquoise Bay.  This is a very touristy spot and the beach was filled with lots of people.  It is also another place to see Ningaloo reef but there are lots of warnings about the under currents and not good for average swimmers.  I stayed out of the water here but Colin went for a swim and said that it looked the same as Coral Bay.  On our way back to the hostel in Exmouth we stopped at Viamingh Lighthouse and lookout.  There were only a few people when we got there and luckily a few whales also were there.  After about 15 minutes 3 big tour busses showed up and we made a hasty exit.  In the evening we got a little laundry done and relaxed.  There was an awesome full moon in the sky and we went on a walk across the street to the park that was full of kangaroos.  We watched them for a while and looked at the moon and stars then headed back for bed.

We were up and on the road at 9am this morning with just Saskia and Colin.  Todd found Exouth very different than the last time he was there and asked to come along with us but the 3 of us agreed that we would rather move on with just the 3 of us.  Today was all about driving as we were headed inland off the coast.  It took 7hours to get to the town of Tom Price with a few stops for lunch, gas and bathroom breaks.  There were not many cars on the road but we did have to stop for a very long train. We got some supplies for the next few days as we were headed into Karijini National Park and there is nothing for supplies there.  We stayed in a caravan park for the night but did not camp because we could see some rain clouds coming in.  The backpacker part was more like Atco trailers with beds but it was nicer on the inside than the outside and the showers were very nice. We had timed everything very well because once we got settled the rain started and it did not stop until sometime through the night.  There was some amazing lighting to see and loud thunder to go with it.  In the morning we were on our way at 9am and I was surprised to see no real evidence of all the rain.  The country is so dry that the ground sucks it up so fast and it so warm the rest evaporates pretty quickly.  We drove to the Karijini National Park info center and looked at the Aboriginal display they had.  From there we made our way to the Dales Campground and got a site.  It was very hot already and we packed lots of water for the hike we were going on.  We hiked along the Dales Gorge and then down to the Circular Pool.  The hike was really cool, over and under rock formations and ended with a little tropical forest.  When we got to the pool we went for a short swim that had a waterfall along one side of the gorge.  From there we walked along the bottom of the gorge to Fortesue Falls with one wrong turn and ended up having to cross the river to get back on track.  After some pictures of the falls we continued on to Fern Pool and another swim.  There were a lot more people here and we only stayed for a little while and hiked back to the campsite.  We set up camp and made supper early so that we could see what we were cooking.  There is not lights out here and we only had 2 flashlights with us.  Once it got dark there really was not much to do.  Once the moon showed up it was picture time.  The moon was still very full and I spent the next hour or so taking pictures and deleting them.  I played around with the different functions on the camera and ended up taking some really nice photos.  It was still a fairly early night with nothing to do but that was okay.  With going to bed early that meant getting up early and I was up by 7am.  I had my breakfast and got the van organized and then the others got up and we were on the road at 9am.  We had a 3 hour drive to Port Hedland and our expected stop for the night.  Port Hedland is a mining town and as we found out that is all that is there.  Everything in the town is red from the ground to the houses and everything else.  Our first stop was the Information center because we could not find the hostel.  We were informed that the hostel was destroyed by the last cyclone and never rebuilt.  The cheapest place to stay was a motel at $90 a night or a caravan park at $40 for 2 people.  We decided to get back on the road and find somewhere else to stay.  Colin drove for 1 ½ hours and then I took over for the last hour and made it to 80 Mile Beach for the evening.  We set up camp again and made some supper.  While roaming around the park we found out that this area is famous for turtles coming up the beach to hatch their babies.  That night we went to the beach and saw a few turtles.  The first 2 we saw we already at the sand bank up the beach and digging holes for the eggs.  We watched for a while and then one of them was finished and went from the bank back to the ocean.  It was really cool to watch but very difficult to get a photo.  While we were waiting for the other one I took some more pics of the moon and they also turned out great.  Still waiting for the other to finish and we see another turtle coming from the ocean and up the beach.  We watched it all the way up and then decided we had seen enough.  Earlier in the day we were disappointed with Port Hedland but were so glad that we did what we did and found 80 Mile Beach.  Strange how things seem to work out for me, I know it was meant to be, no coincidences!!!  I was up early again and had my breakfast and got all my stuff together.  It was very warm in the morning and I think the low was about 25 degrees.  The caravan park had a tv and computer lounge so I went there and thought I would start writing this blog.  I was the only one there and turned on the tv and watched part of the morning news.  I had found out that the high for the day before was 42 but up in Broome where we were headed it was only 35.  We left 80 mile beach at 9am and drove straight through to Broome.  We got checked into the hostel and chilled for a little while and then I headed to MacDonalds for some free internet time where I caught up with a few people.  We chilled out for the evening with a few drinks and met some new people.  That night a huge storm blew in and I was awaked by the loudest thunder I have ever heard.  I think it woke up the whole hostel because a lot of people got up to watch the lightening and listen to the rain and thunder.  From my bed I could see out the window and watched from there.  It was amazing to listen to the lightening was crazy.  It was very close to us and made a lot of noise.  Friday was all about getting updated on the internet.  I was able to chat with my sister Cathy and then a few other friends.  It was nice to get caught up with everyone and see what is going on.  I also was able to download all my pics on Facebook for everyone to see.  I also made it to the grocery store and got a few other things done.  Today I said goodbye to Colin early in the morning as he started his trek back to Perth and then later on to Saskia who decided to fly back.  I am looking to get a ride to Darwin in the next few days but so far no luck.  I thought I might have one that leaves on Monday but there is no room for me so I will continue to wait.  If I can’t find a ride in the next few days I might just go fishing!!!  I can also take a bus for about $200 to Darwin or fly next Friday for about the same price.  I guess we will see what happens.  I really want to drive it though and see the area they call the Kimberley’s.  Once I get to Darwin my plan is to head straight for South East Asia.  I am still deciding where to start but right now it looks like it might be the city of Dili in East Timor.  I will update everyone before I do head into South East Asia.

I have been surprised by how isolated the west coast is and the lack of services in the area.  I knew that there was a lot less here than on the east coast but I did expect a little more.  With that said the scenery here has been amazing.  I think a lot of people come here because it is isolated and not as many tourists.

I hope all take care at home and hope to see as many of you on Skype or Facebook as possible.

Steve

PS: Birthdays wishes to give, my cousin Dale had a birthday on the 6^th on November (not sure I have ever wished him a happy birthday so it is about time!!!) and I think he is the only one at this time.  Lots of friends birthdays but I can never remember them all and will get those done on Facebook.