second time around

I had a nice smooth flight to Rangiroa and into my hotel, the Maitai Rangiroa. I have full board, all meals included and the kitchen here is superb. all the meals have been plentiful and wonderfully prepared. I have had fish, lamb shank, chicken and steak. I had only one reef dive yesterday, but it was great, and today I had a drift dive in the World Famous Tiputa Pass and a second reef dive, both incredible.

I don’t think I have mentioned the chickens yet. On all the islands there are lots of wild chickens and roosters, just like back on Kauai last time. They are quite pretty, and all over the place. As you can imagine, they generally start making lots of noise at around dawn, but it doesn’t bother me much, I just roll over and drift back off. The Maitai Rangiroa is a very nice place to stay, not a 5 star, but a solid 3-4 star. The food has been excellent and the bungalows very nice and clean, between the Atiu Villas and the Etu Moana in luxury level. Good hot showers.

August 7, 2011:
What another great day on the adventure. Up before the alarm, I have been waking pretty often through the night, somewhat warm and sticky. I had a nice small to medium sized breakfast, omelet and bread with coffee. Then off to Top Dive for the 8:00 drift dive. Nicholas was the dive master again, ?Kiochia the japanese girl had a japanese couple and Dave and Stewart. Dave and family are sailing around the world. From Ireland and exudes the “captain of the ship” a little too much with his son, who could in my opinion get a bit more slack, but I’m not sailing in the Pacific with him.

After a good briefing we set out. Much calmer seas today, no whitecaps in the lagoon, and even past the pass the swells were smaller, but there none the less. For the drift dive we put in a little closer to Tiputa Pass, just off the reef at the drop off maybe 250 meters east of the pass. Straight down to 60-70 feet and easy drift along the wall. Right away we saw a couple of reef sharks, then a few more, then 20-30 cruising by, parallel to the reef at about 90 feet. A couple of them were more curious (?hungry) and took a side turn to come look at us a bit closer. We eased down to 90-100 feet and ran into a couple of Dolphins that were happy to mess with us for a bit. Up and down and barrel rolls. It isn’t just the large number of pelagic, but the amazing density of the small fish. I think the current is very strong in the pass and at the top of the reef, with breaking waves and all, so they all like to hang by the sloping area and wall from 40-90 feet. Damsels by the hundreds, angelfish so packed together they look like they are schooling, Picasso Triggerfish all over, Parrots and Snappers and so many kinds of small reef fish I can’t count them. Today I saw large Barracuda, several Yellowfin Tuna, a Puffer at least 18 inches long, Blue fin Trevalley eating a star fish, large Napoleons, a Moray eel as big as my thigh, and a nice size silver tip shark. We didn’t go to the center of the pass, as the current is way stronger, and other than flying through in a couple of minutes there is not much to see as the current prevents coral from growing. The current was plenty strong by the side walls, no way you could swim against it, to stop you definitely had to hold on to the rock. Again I only had a shorty wet suit, but did not get cut by the coral, a small scrape but no blood no foul.

The second dive was a “reef dive” although there is still current to be aware of. They drop us a bit further from the pass and we eased along the wall with the usual sharks and Dolphins toward the pass, but before we enter the pass we pulled up and over the edge of the reef for the end of the dive, as the water was getting ready to go out. This dive I had a Green turtle curious about me. He came to me three or four times, until I petted his neck and fin, then he moved on. Two spectacular dives with great visibility and lots of things to see. Back to the Maitai for a shower and a wonderful lunch: salad, grilled steak with Roquefort sauce and fries and Ice cream profiterole for dessert. As I said at the start, another great day, and time for a little nap!

Tags: Travel

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