burning cold flames
This is an excerpt from an email on some general thoughts from the fall 2005:
Part of what I love about
Third World travel, I guiltily acknowledge is the culture that seems to come at
least partially with poverty — crowds, the smells, kids excited by tiny gifts
and smiles. which disappear with “progress” –when American kids sullenly glare, no one makes eye contact with strangers . . ..
Of course, what I really love does not come from poverty, and who could object if the delicious smells of khana delchesp (delicious food) were not marred with that of sewage? Or the laughter of children were not marred with those crying from disease. I’d like to go to Kerala, because maybe it’s idealized but from what I’ve read it is simple and not full of Western pop-culture, and yet they have much higher Human Development Index marks.
As for White privalege :I hate it, unless I really need it, and then hate that I
appreciate it. I can relate to you being sick of the ubiquitous “sir” because
you’re white. In India I’m turned off by men (especially creepy ones)
condescending to me, and being servile — it’s somehow a mix of both at the
same time, as if they think that I think that I need special treatment, whereas
in reality I don’t want want their attention and they probably don’t really
want to give it, but they do give it and I accept it, what a stupid game :
“madam, from which place are you coming?”
“US”
“Ahh, (Big smile, is that real?) US, very good, let me carry your luggage”
(ignores my mumbling excuses. Once I didn’t have any ruppees on me, but no one
could believe that such a white person could not be concealing wads of cash).
Did you ever experience when this eager-to-please-the-whites goes
astray — when there is a serious question to a cab driver for example?
“Do you know how to get to Kommonahalli?”
“Yes madam, no problem, ” (45 minutes later, after trying to charge me extra
gas taxes and various other hidden tariffs and then asking me why I don’t know
where we are going).
“Um, then why are we stopping?” (When I see the street barricaded
and burning tires and protesters he must finally confess “there is
Hindu-christian ‘demonstration’ [riot] ahead, do not worry madam.”
(I think it’s the British that wanted such yes manisms. Funny that even these
annoying habits charm me though).
Tags: India
nabrams
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