Selçuk & Efes
The bus got in at 4.30 in the morning, and I was tired. A group of Koreans were picked up by a shuttle going to Wallabees Hotel, and I jumped in for ease. Not a bad choice. Simple rooms, but family run by a Dutch-Syrian and Dutch-Turkish/Yugoslav who are super friendly and cool people. My own room with breakfast, free internet, and free bike loan for only 15YTL. No air-con in my room, but with the window open it’s fine. After sleeping, I spent the beginning of my day in a panic. What’s one of the worst things that could happen to a traveller? Did you say lost passport? Cuz you’d be right! I know I had it on the bus, and I know I was moving things in my pockets trying to get comfortable, so it must have fallen out there. The folks at the hotel called the bus company, and the same one that dropped me off was going to be back in Selçuk at 12.30. Albi, one of the guys working there, took me to the otogar and, thank the travel gods, it was there. The driver opened the door and handed it to me straight away.
Now that I could relax, I checked out Selçuk. The main attraction is Ephesus, but I’ve been advised to go early to beat the heat and crowds, so I’ll save it for tomorrow. I checked out the ruins of St. John’s Basilica (2YTL), built on the site of what is believed to be St. John’s tomb. Nearly everything is ruined, and what stands now has been restored. I also went to the İsa Bey Camii and Artemis Temple. The Artemis Temple was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, larger than the Parthenon, and now all that’s left is 1 of the original 127 columns. I also stopped by the Crisler Library, a new building with a good selection of research material. I think it’s part of the house of the owner, an American couple, the Crislers. I was the only one there, so she gave me a bunch of info and let me look around and showed me a video of their cooperation with the Austrians excavating Ephesus.
Around 16.00 I took a dolmuş to Şirince (2YTL). The trusty Lonely Planet warned of it’s touristic nature, but I was interested in the fruit wines they produce there. The dolmuş lets off right in the heart of the tourist crap. So, I headed right off to try to get away, and that meant up. I kept heading uphill, and found some much more interesting proto-typical Turkish village areas. At one spot was a family-run Gözleme restaurant that also served some homemade wines. I’ve had enough Gözleme, but tried another dish of white beans in a thin tomato sauce with some homemade bread, red wine, and baklava. All homemade and all for 9.50YTL, with a view over the village below. Quite nice. I wandered around the back streets some more and tasted some wine at a shop, buying a bottle of their blackberry wine.
After crashing early that night, I was up bright and early to get to Efes (10YTL). Touted as the best preserved classical city in the Eastern Mediterranean, it most certainly is! Not only some amazing structures still standing, such as the Grand Theater and Library of Celsus, but the size of the city is astonishing. Bits and pieces of various buildings and roads everywhere. Quite impressive. After, I headed to the Ephesus Museum (2YTL), which has some artifacts, sculptures, and pieces of structures from Ephesus on display, but also a room on the Gladiator. Interesting, and the sculptures were amazingly intact.
Tags: Asia, Travel, Turkey
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