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A Lion of a New Years

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008

Day 275

We weren’t getting the early start I thought we would today, I was eager to get into the Serengeti as soon as possible. The reason thoughdid make sense. The permit for being in the park is valid for 24 hours from the time you enter. So if we entered at noon today then we would have to be out by noon tomorrow. After breakfast the truck was loaded and just after 9am we were off. We passed through some scruffy villages, stopped for fuel and a drink. Actually our driver stopped for a drink, he then got back in the truck and drove off. Never asking if we wanted anything or even telling us what the stop was about. Matter of fact he didn’t really talk to us much at all.

W e entered the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and stopped of for an amazing view of the crater below. We would be back here tomorrow night to camp on the craters rim and then do a game drive the following morning. We continued on towards Serengeti, and soon the road wound it’s way down to the plains below. They seemed to stretch forever in the distance. We saw zebra and wildebeest in groups moving along the plains and a few giraffe. It was amazing, we weren’t even in the park yet. We also saw several Maasai locals walking with their cattle, dressed in their traditional clothing. They would wave at us and shout things, mostly hello, other times to stop and buy something from them. The The Maasai may be semi-nomadic and still very traditional but they aren’t stupid and know how to make a buck from tourism. They sell all kinds of tourists souvenirs, I think they may be semi-nomadic in the sense that they move to where tourists are. The entire trip made for some excellent photos.

Mid-afternoon we reached the gate to the Serengeti, snapped a photo and started our drive in the park. It was very flat here with rocky outcrops spread amongst the plains. A scene straight out of the Lion King, heck I was waiting for the theme music to kick in and a lion to be peering out off one of those outcrops. We saw thousands of zebra and wildebeest moving along the plains. I think part of the annual migration, but I’m not sure since our “guide” had no clue either. Either way it was quite a sight to see so many animals all moving in the same direction. We turned off the main road onto a smaller dirt track while some dark rain clouds gathered in the distance.  We put the roof on anticipating a downpour soon.  Just minutes after doing this we saw it, finally our first lion sighting!  Not one but two lions lying in the grass next to each other no more than 10 meters from us.  I looked at Jordana and she just laughed, it was such an incredible sight to see.  We stayed just watching the lions for a good 10 minutes, I must have taken 20 photos.  You know the way it is the first time you ever see something, besides it’s a lion!  Eventually we moved on when not more than 30 minutes later we came across another lion, no wait we came across another 3 lions!  2 large females and a small younger female.  They stared at us and then they rose and walked right across the road in front of the truck.  So large and powerful looking, and so close it’s tough to describe how it feels to see a lion this close.

We continued the drive and saw 2 more lions, several giraffe, buffalo, thousands upon thousands of zebra and wildebeest crossing the plains and of course impala.  The scenery was tremendous and as good as Kruger was it was hard to compete with what we were seeing here today.  A few hours before sunset we arrived at our camp for the night.  This was more what I had in mind for this safari.  A cleared out spot right in the middle of the Serengeti with a few trees about.  No fences here like in Kruger, animals can and have wandered right through the camp.  As interesting as that sounded I was kinda hoping they would just keep their distance tonight.  Maybe they had a new years party to go to, hopefully.

Well we didn’t have a party to attend and our New Years consisted of the 5 of us drinking some ridiculously warm beer that we had packed in our bags and some kongyagi.  A pretty decent Tanzania spirit made from sugarcane that the Swedes pulled out of their bag.  It was surprisingly smooth.  I’m hoping to be able to find it at the LCBO back home, if not I’m thinking I should start importing it.  It may sound like we had a big drink up for new years but in fact we shared the 6 cans of Castle lager between us and then rationed the Kongyagi as well.  It was far from a drunken new years and by 9:30pm we were all in bed.  It was the first new years I can ever remember when I wasn’t awake at midnight, but it didn’t matter.  Camping in the Serengeti for new years sure beats any drunken night out at a bar.  Now a drunken night of camping in the Serengeti?  hmmm, maybe next year.

Nothing Changes on New Years Day

Monday, December 31st, 2007

Day 56

We had to move hotels today since the Jinava is booked for New Years. We figured a bit of a splurge was in order for New Years eve so we called ahead and reserved at the Vulcano Lodge in Jaibalito. At $40/night it wasn’t exactly breaking the bank. Jaibalito is just a 25 minute ride from San Marcos and since it is unreachable by road it promised to be a very quiet new years.

We climbed off the boat at Jaibalitos dock and walked uphill on the villages main “street”, although since there are no cars let’s call it a sidewalk. We passed friendly locals and laughing kids playing football, it was a good first impression. Finally we reached a sign pointing the way to the hotel, it was set just under some cliffs on the upper end of the village. Sprawling grounds, attractively landscaped with small cabins to stay in. Our room was spotless, large and well decorated with a fabulous front veranda. We had a hammock, a couple of chairs and a great view. It was tough to imagine a more relaxing place.

The hotel is owned by a very friendly Norwegian couple. They bought the place 14 years ago and slowly have transformed it into one of the best places I have ever stayed at. That night for our new years dinner they had setup large table for 12. All the guests, staff and themselves sat down for a new years eve feast, it was like dinner with family. The food was laid out buffet style and we could just take what and how much we wanted.

After dinner some guests headed to bed but Jordana and I were determined to be up at 12am to bring in 2008. We got a bottle of wine and sat on our veranda waiting for the new year to arrive. With a candle, mosquito col burning and some low key music on the iPod it was the quietest new years we have had yet one of the most enjoyable.

I don’t have much else to report from our time at Jaibalito. We spent most of it on our veranda in a hammock. Hence the title of this post, sorry I just wasn’t feeling creative and I always think of U2 on new years. When we tired of that we strolled through the village to say hi to the children and buy some bananas for lunch. It was a perfect way to start 2008, a year that promised to be filled with new countries, adventure and excitement.

Happy new year!