Si Phan Don….
4000 islands of the Mekong……..
One of the best decision I made so far was to come to the islands of Don Det and Don Kon. These islands lie in the extreme south of Laos, where the Mekong stretches up t0 14 km in breath. During the dry season the river recedes and exposes the land. Even in the rainy season there are hundreds of them. It’s of course a beautiful place…very different from the mountainous charm of the north. Rich rice fields are surrounded by the mighty Mekong, laced with coconut trees and lazing canoe fishing boats. The pace after the early morning hours (the busiest time in these islands) is that of leisure. I can’t remember anything but once again eating, sleeping and reading.
This trip to the south ended up being about the people more than the place. I met some of the nicest travelers here and some who were actually waiting for me as I was delayed for a few days in Vientiane. I was touched by that..
Lisa, Kun and Sophie were some who shared this island treasure with me. Lisa and Kun were having so much fun with us that they delayed there departure! We played cards, shared stories, discussed politics and or plain yapped..time passed slowly and gently.
Will load pics of my new found friends soon….
Then there was Noy….the young women who owned the guest house where I stayed one night. Because of a noisy neighbour..my cousin from the past ( a monkey) I had to move shop, but I returned every day as Noy made the best food I have had so far in Laos. I mean it was good!. Sorry if you miss this pleasure as she’s getting hitched in Feb and the hills of Scotland await her.
Walking around the Island I saw the simple life of the farmers here. Woken up by roaring motor boats (wooden canoes with engines) I saw the industrious fishermen as well. Have to say I was a bit embarrassed as my lazy hammock swinging b*tt. That guilt kept me away from the locals but I soon got over that and ventured. Many people just peeped out of the houses to say a quick hello or would give me some of the loveliest smiles. They are a bit shy so you might have to take the first step. The village headman (I found out later) came out of this bungalow..said a big hello and asked If I was from India..I nodded…he nodded. Shortest conversation.
One of the longer conversations was with a researcher who was in the area along with a medical doctor from Indonesia studying the impacts of tourism on the poor. The question first they had to answer was what was poor here? Village headman claimed the people were not poor. Then they were trying to see what we spent how and how much went to these folks. I asked myself this question as well. Does my being here help them? Do we help by traveling or are we bringing a way of life which is going to destroy their traditional one. Long discussion and no right answer.
Since I was feeling a little queasy I went to the local hospital..more just to see whether I could manage to see a doctor. They spoke French but mine is non existent so I ended up having 5 interpreters..between them and the lady doctor who just nodded and wrote me a prescription, the screen was hilarious. They would all ask for my symptoms and then one by one say something to the doctor. In the end I was nothing but a source of amusement for them and I happily got the medication and walked away happy for making their day. Not sure what it was..maybe the placebo effect did the work and I feel fine and dandy.
The week soon came to an end and I found myself on a truck to Pakse and after a brief overnight stay I landed in Cambodia safe and sound. Contrary to the picture painted about this country I have yet to see a gun. Siem Reap will soon turn into Vegas…its construction cranes everywhere. More about Siem Reap later and of course Angkor Wat.
Cheers
Madhu
Lao Lao Gang View image
Madhu and Keon View image
Sunset Si Phan Don View image
Sunset View image
Tags: Laos
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Madhu
Hi Madhu,
How are you? It has been such a pleasure reading your traveling log. I am glad you have landed safely in Cambodia, and ready to explore more. Pleas take good care of yourself, and enjoy!
Life in the States is about the same. John Kerry and Bush are still very tight in the election race, and almost every day one hear the words of terrorist and war in the news. The alert level went up again last few days with some info on possible attacks on the financial market in NY.
Arnold finally proposed a balanced budget by cutting thousands of state jobs. You are so lucky to be away from all of this…
Happy traveling!
fondly,
Dora
Madhu,
Glad you ended Laos on a good note. It was one of the highlights of my trip. I didn’t get to the 4000 Islands area and I wish I had. Next time!
Hope all is well.