I saw Africa today
Well, I’ve arrived in Bahir Dar. Think Daytona Beach but set in Africa. It lies on the southern end of Ethiopia’s largest lake. Lake Tana. The journey here was long but well worth it. I finally left the dusty, sprawling and noisy confines of the capital and have arrived at my lake side hotel. It is a rather large room with twin beds sitting next to the hotel’s terrace restaurant. It seems like just when I’m getting down about everything and feeling like I’m going to suffocate in my own travels along comes an experience like today. 4 days in 2 of Africa’s largest cities was enough for me and now I can relax.
The journey started very early this morning at 4:30am. I was told that a driver would be in front of the hotel to pick me up. A 4WD arrived at about 5am and we took off. I thought I was going to be the only one on this trip but that is not the African way. The vehicle was soon packed with 7 Ethiopian’s all on a journey north to the city of Gondar. I was to be let off in the town of Bahir Dar before they continued on. At the time I didn’t know it but the journey took about 9 hours. We left Addis Ababa and after only about a 3 minute drive we were suddenly in the mountains. The sun crept up after an hour or so and I finally got to see the countryside I had been waiting for. Rolling hills with huts scattered along the landscape. Although I thought it would be greener than it was, apparently it is dry right now.
Along the side of the road you could see small villages and farmers and herders getting to work early. We stopped to stretch our legs in a small town near the Blue Nile Gorge. Here comes the “faranji frenzy” (or “foreigner frenzy). I was warned about it but you really don’t expect it to be as uncomfortable as it is till you experience it. We stepped out of the car and immediately a crowd of Ethiopian children came up to it and looked inside, around, and underneath the car then all eyes turned to me. It seems as though every person on this specific block were staring at me. This isn’t the polite glance back and forth type either. One teenager stood no more than 5 feet from me and stared endlessly at me. I looked off in the distance and the same for the elders. I was strange. I am sure I wasn’t the first westerner to pass through this town because it is on the way to some places frequented by tourists but I guess the novelty never wears off. It is uncomfortable at first but after a few stops I decide to make sure I kept a smile on my face and waved. The small kids LOVE to wave.
The scenery on the way was fantasic. Although, while it was similar, it doesn’t have the colors that Morocco had. Our driver was incredibly fast and a few times I thought we were going to collide head on with buses traveling the other direction.
After the Blue Nile Gorge the trip can be taken 2 different ways. A smooth paved road that takes longer or a bumpy back road that is much quicker but still several hours. Our driver took the bumpy (and I would have to imagine) more scenic route. It seemed like we were passing through backyards and I swear some of the roads were paved in dung. We didn’t go more than a minute or two without seeing people. Civilization is everywhere in Ethiopia, however limited it may be and poor it may look. And that is just the thing, they don’t LOOK poor. It is just rural farming and very basic housing. I would imagine it isn’t much worse than having a nice little shack to camp in. I guess the problem comes when the rain doesn’t fall and the crops don’t grow and the food doesn’t come.
I came to the conclusion that I enjoy rural Ethiopia much more. We stopped to use the bathroom (pee off a cliff on the side of a road) right near these huts. It was no development, no neighborhood, just a family who lived in that area. The children that came up to us didn’t stare but they smiled and played and laughed and tried to talk to me. It seemed I got more attention than the others in the vehicle but even they were stared at. Imagine living a simple life herding sheep and every couple of hours a huge, loud and dusty white monster comes barrel-assing down the hills then suddenly 7 people jump out. I would be curious too.
Fast forward a few more hours and we arrived in the last town before Bahir Dar. The driver was apparently supposed to pick up his manager and bring him here but he never showed up so we were hanging out for about 20 minutes. I was a bit uncomfortable at first because this was the type of area where the people just stared. Then one of them came up to me. He was probably in his early 20’s late teens. He asked me where I came from. Of course, as I tell everyone, without shame “the U.S.A.” He introduced himself with a hand shake and a name I can’t remember and told me that he is muslim but doesn’t like what Bin Laden is doing and that he and his friends were on our side. I didn’t know how to respond to it really other than to say thank you. He then ran off with his friends chewing on sugar cane like all of them seem to do.
We finally arrived where I am now and let me tell you it is refreshing. I haven’t gotten around to taking many photos but as soon as I do and when I can get to a connection that is faster than here I will show you. Tomorrow I should be visiting some of the island christian monastaries scattered on Lake Tana. I’m excited to be able to use my mosquito net for the first time, I heard the bugs here are vicious.
Time for some more macchiotos (good thing the italians occupied Ethiopia for a few years because they have great cafes)
Tags: Africa, bahir dar, Ethiopia, lake tana
Joey
The road trip sounds exciting! What I would do to be crammed into a van with Ethiopians! *sarcasm* Honestly though, I am extremely envious and so excited for you. Can’t wait for the pictures, especially of the inscects!
Keep up the stories Joey. We love reading them!
Sounds awesome. I wish I would’ve remembered this earlier but if you check out http://www.geekeasy.com, he has a lot of info. and a backpacking guide to Addis…..
Enjoy and keep blogging!
🙂
ahhh!! i’m so happy and jealous!! 🙂
Good to see you made it alright. This TFer will be keeping up on your travels.
Man thats whatsup!!!
I’m proud of you. Keeping Gangster. Bribing the five o, spitting game to some beautiful Ethiopian Prostitutes, peeing off cliffs, and representing the U.S of A. to them jits.Can’t wait to see some of your pics of your gangster trip.
From the Ghetto commentator D.B.
Sounds like you’re having a good time on your “misadventures.” Whats crazier though, (and I attribute this to all your blogging) is that it seems like you’ve seen a lot already but its literally only been a week. Still 5 months and 3 weeks to go. But even though you do have plenty of time, try to get some pictures up. Back to collecting…
Did you get to see, hang out with, play cards with, or shove Sally Strothers?
How do you say “Take your shirt off!”, in whatever language they speak where you are right now? 😉
im glad you are enjoying yourself! I bet it is gorgeous.. stay safe! love marie
Hey, this sounds wonderful. So happy you are shaing this with us. Wish I could’ve seen a pic of you with the 7 Ethopians in the car. WOW! Take care and be safe!
Looking forward to more of the trip & seeing the pics … Don’t worry about the staring they probably just like white meat … I am sure they aren’t cannibals … Can’t wait to see the pics… Be safe & take care …
What is really good son? Today is the 10th and no word from u……….. No internet cafes? Holla
Heee! Awesome, so glad you are getting to see a bit more of the country. The staring kids get a bit much — your arms get tired of waving and your face aches from smiling! Still, better than the grumpy January Sales shoppers back home!
Good decision to get a 4WD, as crammed as it was — our Addis-Bahir Dar bus broke down. 12 hours on the first day, a night in a random town, then 7 more hours the next day!
You staying by the lake — Ghion Hotel?? Do those fricking hornbills wake you up at silly o’clock in the morning with their honking? The lake is stunning though, huh? Enjoy the monestaries!
Take care
‘sup homey? i no u b chillin, but dont f’get ya peeps back home, kid!
shout!