The Curse of the Punta Union Pass
So after a brief so-journ to the coast we find ourselves back in Huaraz. We had intended to return, not quite as soon as we did, but as we couldn’t get flights to the Galapagos until late August we decided to turn round whilst Huaraz was only 9 hours away.
Once back we decided to do the Santa Cruz trek, this is the trek we abandoned a couple of weeks ago when we were both just absolutely exhausted and finding the alltitude affecting us – bad weather didn’t help either – and heading over the Punta Union pass at 4760m in cloud didn’t appeal.
Day One: Cashapampa to Llamacoral
With supplies bought we caught two collectivos to Caraz and then onto Cashapampa – all very familiar. From there it was a steady climb up the Santa Cruz valley, along side a stream. The first couple of hours were fairly steep, but it flatten out. The Santa Cruz is a very popular, and youcould tell with a number of donkey trains passing us in both directions.
Llamacoral campsite is set in a lovely spot, with snow capped mountains poking out behind the closer smaller ones.
Day Two: Llamacoral to Alpamayo Base Camp (south side)
The joys of an easy-moderate rated walk rather than our recent difficult. A lovely relaxing day following the valley slowly up to the Quishuar campsite and then an easy 300m climb to base camp.
We had half intended to camp just before the actual base camp but as the wind picked up in the early afternoon and we were getting colder, we decided to head further up to a more sheltered spot. We were rewarded with wonderful views of Alpamayo and nearby mountains.
Day Three: Alpamayo Base Camp (South Side)
Today was supposed to be up and over the Punta Union pass, but during the night Nick was ill and couldn’t go anywhere, so we decided to stay put and see what the next day held for us.
I had a very relaxing day sitting in the sun watching the mountains, reading our Central America book and catching up on the diary. It is amazing how time flies in the middle of nowhere – I find it much easier to while away time in such a setting rather than in a city. I think it is because there is nothing to do, whereas in the city you feel like you should be doing something.
Day Four: Alpamayo Base Camp to Llamacoral
The Punta Union pass got us again, we are just not destined to go over it on this trip. Nick still wasn’t great, so we decided to walk out the easy way – all down hill rather than a hard climb. The weather also didn’t look great with lots of clouds forming early morning, certainly not the normal weather pattern of clear mornings, clouding up in the afternoon.
Not as relaxing as on the way up, but despite a few stops it only took us just under 5 hours to get back to Llamacoral campsite – 500m lower than we had been the previous night – so warmer and with slightly thicker air to breathe!
The weather got worse too, leading to rain in the early evening.
Day Five: Llamacoral to Cashapampa
Nick still wasn’t great, we had certainly made the right decision not to try and go over the pass. Down, down, down (although the first two hours were more undulating than we remembered!)
We got back to Cashapampa quicker than we expected – always a good sign – and two collectivos later we were back in Huaraz and pouring rain – not supposed to happen – it is supposed to be the dry season!
Hotels/hostels in Huaraz seemed to have at least tripled their prices since we left – due to Independance Day fesitivities over the weekend – and to begin with it looked like we would have to stay for a minimum for 3 nights and the buses weren’t running the following day. After initial worries we found a hostel room (at an extortionate price) and a bus to Trujillo the following day.
Apart from our 2 day so-journ to Trujillo, Huanchaco and Chan Chan it turns out that we have been in and around the Huaraz area for a month. Certainly time to leave – Ecuador here we come!!
Tags: Peru, Travel, Trek
Jenni
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