Plan A, B, C . . .
Plan A
After a great breakfast buffet, we headed west on the B4 towards a remote, colonial town on the South Atlantic called Luderitz. Apart from wanting to see an old ghost mining town long abandoned, I had no real desire to drive the 123 km to Luderitz (except for the fact that we would pass “Garub” where the actual watering hole is located for the wild horses). So upon seeing the sign, and another arm-twisting, Fred turned the car onto the dusty path to the watering hole.
While driving up the sandy road, I spotted a lone Gemsbok underneath a tree so took the opportunity to photograph it. It certainly didn’t allow me to get close before taking off (at least they take off the opposite way and don’t charge – I was a long way from the car!). I was surprised to see it had a full tail like a horse.
We continued on and reached the large depression which contained the water trough. To Fred’s delight, we encountered a flock of Ostrich (about 8 – 10 of them), plus, several Gemsbok (also called Oryx) visiting the water trough. However upon our arrival, they started to leave. Moments later, from far in the distance, here came the wild horses of the Namib. As soon as they entered the basin area, they perked their ears forward and started trotting excitedly towards the water trough. Stallions, mares and foals all gathered around to replenish themselves.
After several minutes, these horses had their fill and headed back to the desert to graze while another band headed in. Stallions, in passing, would challenge one another with a squeal and a strike, or a wheel and a kick, but none got too out of control – it is the summer season and it’s too hot. It was also interesting to note how the wild horses were dominant over the gemsbok at the watering hole. They would stand off about 30 m away until the horses finished drinking. A few became brave and went to drink from the trough while the horses were present but were quickly frightened away when the horses turned their heads and bared their teeth.
Just as we were about to leave, a huge herd of Gemsbok came from out of nowhere it seems and headed towards the watering hole. They were careful not to walk where the horses were coming and going, but instead, walked around the upper perimeter of the basin. They certainly have a healthy respect for the feral horses.
We could have stayed for hours watching all the dynamics of the watering hole (they have put up a rustic, wooden viewing cabin so that the tourists won’t disturb the wildlife) but the arrival of 3 jeep loads of loud-mouthed, camera-snapping tourists forced us to move on.
In just over an hour, we arrived at the town of Luderitz. We double checked the map to make sure this wasn’t the ghost town. There was nobody out and about, all the stores and shops were closed, only a gas station was open so we took the opportunity to fill up. Finally realizing it was Sunday (we need to buy a calendar!), we drove around and checked out the town a bit and found one guesthouse we thought would be nice to stay the night in. We buzzed the owner (they all seem to have locked gates in the towns and cities here), who came out briefly and told us they were full.
Plan B
So, we decided to head back east and stay at a place that I had suggested earlier out in the Tirasberge Mountains area called the Namtib Biosphere Reserve (bungalows with full board for $45). Since it was 55km north, then west 48 km, then north 12 km, on dirt roads, Fred insisted we call first so back we went to Klein Aus Vista so I could make the call. After letting the phone ring and ring for two minutes, I hung up. So much for that idea.
Plan C
By now, it was around 3 p.m so we studied the map again and decided to head on the paved road east a couple hundred kilometres to Keetmanshoop. Known only for its large amount of petrol stations, we weren’t too excited but everything doesn’t always go as planned. As we were driving along this very straight stretch of highway (the roads are as straight and flat as southern Ontario), we came across a Namibian woman waving a piece of clothing cautioning us to slow down. Seeing vehicles on both sides of the road, we figured it must be an accident. Sure enough, on top of the crest of a hill (the first and one of a few hills on this stretch), about 15 feet up, was a white Nissan car laying on its side, with a bloodied white man holding up his bloodied female passenger.
Kneeling over was another white lady applying some first aid to what we later learned was her sister. Using their cell phone, they contacted emergency requesting a medical helicopter to no avail but apparently an ambulance would be sent. They wanted to get the injured woman to a hospital as soon as they could and we suggested they take them to Keetmanshoop which would be the closest. What a place for an accident to happen – we were about 200 km from Luderitz, 60 or 70 km from the tiny village of Aus, and about 150 km to Keetmanshoop.
We went back to the overturned vehicle and got out their daypacks and a couple of other belongings which had been thrown from the car and gave them to the sister. It was impossible to open up the trunk for their luggage and at that point, wasn’t a priority. The injured couple were helped into the Land Rover with the sister and her boyfriend who high-tailed it towards Keetmanshoop. A French couple, now living in England, who had been travelling in the Land Rover with the sister and her boyfriend, were left at the scene so we offered to drive them to Keetmanshoop. They gratefully jumped in the backseat and off we drove following the Land Rover to the hospital.
Since they were sleeping in the back seat of the Land Rover at the time of the accident, they didn’t see what caused the accident but awoke when they heard the sister scream and looked to see the Nissan sliding sideways out of control then just before they collided with it, it went airborne and flipped 4 times, before landing on the opposite side of the road, 15 feet up the embankment.
After at least an hour, and only 30 km from Keetmanshoop, we finally came across the ambulance. The injured parties were transferred and our passengers went back into the Land Rover. We had learned from our passengers that this woman had just got out of the hospital a couple of weeks ago from reconstructive surgery as a result of an accident she had a couple of years ago. Apparently, she had been jogging and was hit by a car. This poor woman (probably around 30), has spent the last 2 years in and out of the hospital and was encouraged to go on a vacation in South Africa and Namibia to relax…
On arrival in Keetmanshoop, we found a nice hotel right as we entered the town called Canyon Hotel. Even though a swim in the pool would have been wonderful, we had a long day and retired to the room where we watched a couple of movies before dinner (I had a delicious chicken cordon bleu with fries). Just before bed, Fred went to the bar to buy a bottle of water and was approached by the lady with whom we had given the ride to. Unbelieveably, the injured woman only received two broken ribs and several stitches, and the guy, although battered and bruised, did not appear to have any serious injuries. Thank goodness they were wearing their seatbelts! Since the hospital seemed very third-world, they were going to take them to the capital city of Windhoek for a second opinion. The doctor had wanted the injured couple to stay overnight in the hospital but given the hospital conditions, the sister decided they were better off in the comfort of our nice hotel. Although they were only 2 days into their holiday, at least they are still alive. But it makes you wonder if that woman will ever go near a car again.
After about 3,500 km in 15 days driving, we have been through a South African and a Namibian traffic police checkpoint. Apparently, there is a high incidence of drunk driving, speeding, and passing when its unsafe Although there are few vehicles on the road, those that are drive at excessive speeds (our 80 km/hr roads are 120 km/hr here with no paved shoulder!). This includes not only the locals, but the tourists as well (Germans are used to no speed limits on the Autobon). All you can do is stay at the limit (or under!) and drive defensively. Yes, those that know Fred’s driving, I know what you’re thinking…
I have been photographing several of the posted signs cautioning wild animals (feral horses, gemsbok, deer, springbok and saw one that looked like a wolf but we were by it too quickly). The only things we have had to stop for so far have been the ostriches crossing the roadways. Luckily, we haven’t been travelling at night so there’s a less chance of coming upon the other animals during the daytime. On our drive yesterday, we did have a small deer (not sure of the kind – I need to buy a wild animal identification book today) and a mongoose-looking rodent cross the road in the distance in front of us. It is amazing to think about all the wildlife which survive out in the middle of the desert.
Well, my sister has emailed me about a 50 car pile up near Toronto due to the snowy weather conditions so I know those back home reading this blog have their own driving issues to contend with. We don’t have the snow here, but we have signs posted which caution motorists for high winds and blowing sand! I got out of the car and took a photo of the red sand being blown across the roadway in the high winds – it stung my face a lot more than the snow does!
Until next time,
Drive safe!
Lisa n Fred
Tags: Travel
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