Galloping into the Sunset
From the town of Keetmanshoop, we headed in the direction of Maltahohe to the heart of the Namibian ranching community in hopes of staying at the Daweb Guest Farm – a working cattle ranch. While enroute, we stopped at the Quivertree Rest Camp to see Namibia’s largest stand of kokerboom trees. They are also known as quiver trees because San hunters used to use the lightweight branches as quivers by removing the branches’ fibrous heart, leaving a strong, hollow tube. These interesting trees are in fact aloes which can grow to a height of 8 metres. In June and July, they bloom with a spectacular yellow flower.
We arrived early in the morning and were the first ones present to walk through the rocky area. We saw some movement underneath a scrub brush, then saw a small, light brown animal scurry across the sand into the rocks. Then, we saw another and another, and soon, we were surrounded by meerkats! These agile little critters were smaller than I had imagined and were digging up holes in the sand looking for food. A couple stood up on their hindlegs on top of the rocks as if acting as lookouts. It wasn’t long before they finished with the area and moved on to new territory. I wish I could have scooped one up and taken it home for a pet!
As we continued to walk through the maze of kokerbooms, we saw a few interesting lizards and a Rock Hyrax (a.k.a. Dassie). Today, we bought “The Mammal Guide of Southern Africa” by Burger Cillie which is a great reference to help us identify the wildlife we have been seeing in our travels. It is no substitute for a well-informed, knowledgeable guide but its informative and will make for great reading at night.
From the kokerboom area, we continued another 5 km down the dirt road to the “Giant’s Playground”. This large area is described as a “natural rock garden” but seemed more like a maze of rocks to me. Luckily for us, they had arrows indicating which path to follow, otherwise, it would have been so easy to get turned around and lost for good inside the boulders. This large area was home to many elusive dassies, colourful lizards, and singing secadas.
After about 45 minutes walking through the rock field, in sweltering 40 degree heat, we jumped back in the air conditioned vehicle and headed north. Another long, straight stretch of endless highway, with very few vehicles in sight. We did see a few Namibians driving horse-drawn carts down dirt paths in the barren fields along the roadway.
On arrival in Maltahohe, we followed the guide book’s directions to the Guest Farm down a long gravel laneway. On our approach, we were met by a man in a pickup truck who advised that they no longer rented out rooms, just camping. Being tentless, we headed back into the town of 2,500 and found a surprisingly decent lodging called Hotel Maltahohe (private room with bath, electricity, swimming pool and breakfast for $48). We enjoyed a refreshing swim and spotting a black bird with a red back and what looked to be a red helmet on its head (still have to determine its name). After spending many hours in the car the past few days, I was shocked to see a sign at the hotel offering massage services. I opted for the hot-rocks massage (never had one like that before so couldn’t resist), but having hot rocks rubbed all over you in a 35 degree C room was a little much. It still was a great opportunity to speak with a very pleasant girl from Namibia (German background though) about her life and the Namibian culture.
From Maltahohe, we headed westward towards the famous sand dunes of Sossusvlei. Once again, a particular location caught my attention: the Desert Homestead & Horse Trails (now you know why). After having only travelled about 2 hours (on dirt roads), Fred was more inclined to keep going (maybe the word “horse” in the title had something to do with it . . . ), but I pleaded to go in and just check it out so we did. It was much more impressive up close and upon hearing they had one room left, we took it for two nights ($120/night, including breakfast, anytime coffee/tea, no electricity, just a battery-operated fan and lights in the room). Since it was now approaching Christmas, we knew accommodations might be scarce. Each of the 20 thatched chalets had their own private porch and view over the desert and surrounding rocky hills. We signed up for a “sundowner” ride leaving at 5:30 p.m so spent the next few hours, relaxing by the pool. Since it was so hot and dry (40+), after leaving the pool you were completely dry again in less than 3-4 minutes.
Our very amicable guides, Ian and Luisa, accompanied Fred and I to the horse stable. Lucky for us, we were the only ones riding that evening. I was given a grey ½ Lippizan gelding by the name of Sultan and Fred was given a big Thoroughbred buckskin mare named Kalahari. Ian’s mount was a bay, feral horse they had rescued from Aus! The Desert Homestead has 24 horses of mixed levels (depending on your riding ability) and of a variety of breeds. They are very well cared for and are supplemented with grain (2x daily) and free choice hay.
We rode out towards the sandy plains passing grazing springbok and stopping to see a social weaver’s nest (which apparently snakes crawl into, too). Ian then asked if we were ready for a canter and Fred said, “Sure.” As soon as Ian’s horse cantered off, Fred’s thoroughbred was not to be left behind. Off she ran like a bullet, with Fred’s butt bouncing out of the saddle on every stride!!! Since the horses only had snaffles in their mouths, I knew Fred was headed for trouble. I was cringing and hoping he would remember Juan’s famous words (from Uruguay) “to stop the horse, pull the reins!”
Ian quickly picked up that Fred was out of control and brought his horse to a walk, hoping Kalahari would stop. Luckily, Fred’s prior riding lessons with Dan also came in handy as he remembered to keep his heels down and weight balanced, and successfully brought his horse down to an excited walk. I caught up to Fred and advised him it was just a snaffle in the horse’s mouth and that was why (among other reasons) she was so difficult to stop. I asked Ian about switching mounts with Fred but apparently Sultan was for the experienced rider and Fred’s was for the Intermediate rider (I think next time, Fred will check off “Novice”). They have one more level below for beginners who have never ridden before.
We spread out along the plains more so the horses wouldn’t feel the need to try and race one another. Fred tried to master cantering on Kalahari a couple more times with some success. I was relieved by the time we got to the “sundowner” location that Fred was still in once piece. A fall could have abruptly ended our travels.
An employee of the ranch had driven a truck ahead and had set up a wash basin, along with a table full of snacks (ham, cheese, crackers, grapes, nuts, salt and vinegar potato chips even), and a cooler full of varied refreshments. Fred and I quickly downed a water then popped open a Windoek beer. After watching the golden sun set behind the rocky cliffs, it was time to head back. I asked Ian if it was okay if Fred could ride Sultan and I’d ride the mare back, just in case she took off again. Ian and Fred had no complaints and all the horses were quiet as we just walked back to the homestead. What an incredible way to spend a summer’s evening – riding in the desert at night with just the stars illuminating our way home.
After a couple more drinks back at the lodge sharing stories with Ian (originally from Rhodesia), Fred and I called it an early evening since it was a 5 a.m wake up call for our 4 x 4 tour to the famous sand dunes of Sossusvlei.
Happy Trails,
Lisa n Fred
Tags: Travel
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