A Jolly Good Trip

Plan A

After a great breakfast buffet, we headed west on the B4 towards a remote, colonial town on the South Atlantic called Luderitz. Apart from wanting to see an old ghost mining town long abandoned, I had no real desire to drive the 123 km to Luderitz (except for the fact that we would pass “Garub” where the actual watering hole is located for the wild horses). So upon seeing the sign, and another arm-twisting, Fred turned the car onto the dusty path to the watering hole.

While driving up the sandy road, I spotted a lone Gemsbok underneath a tree so took the opportunity to photograph it. It certainly didn’t allow me to get close before taking off (at least they take off the opposite way and don’t charge – I was a long way from the car!). I was surprised to see it had a full tail like a horse.

We continued on and reached the large depression which contained the water trough. To Fred’s delight, we encountered a flock of Ostrich (about 8 – 10 of them), plus, several Gemsbok (also called Oryx) visiting the water trough. However upon our arrival, they started to leave. Moments later, from far in the distance, here came the wild horses of the Namib. As soon as they entered the basin area, they perked their ears forward and started trotting excitedly towards the water trough. Stallions, mares and foals all gathered around to replenish themselves.

After several minutes, these horses had their fill and headed back to the desert to graze while another band headed in. Stallions, in passing, would challenge one another with a squeal and a strike, or a wheel and a kick, but none got too out of control – it is the summer season and it’s too hot. It was also interesting to note how the wild horses were dominant over the gemsbok at the watering hole. They would stand off about 30 m away until the horses finished drinking. A few became brave and went to drink from the trough while the horses were present but were quickly frightened away when the horses turned their heads and bared their teeth.

Just as we were about to leave, a huge herd of Gemsbok came from out of nowhere it seems and headed towards the watering hole. They were careful not to walk where the horses were coming and going, but instead, walked around the upper perimeter of the basin. They certainly have a healthy respect for the feral horses.

We could have stayed for hours watching all the dynamics of the watering hole (they have put up a rustic, wooden viewing cabin so that the tourists won’t disturb the wildlife) but the arrival of 3 jeep loads of loud-mouthed, camera-snapping tourists forced us to move on.

In just over an hour, we arrived at the town of Luderitz. We double checked the map to make sure this wasn’t the ghost town. There was nobody out and about, all the stores and shops were closed, only a gas station was open so we took the opportunity to fill up. Finally realizing it was Sunday (we need to buy a calendar!), we drove around and checked out the town a bit and found one guesthouse we thought would be nice to stay the night in. We buzzed the owner (they all seem to have locked gates in the towns and cities here), who came out briefly and told us they were full.

Plan B

So, we decided to head back east and stay at a place that I had suggested earlier out in the Tirasberge Mountains area called the Namtib Biosphere Reserve (bungalows with full board for $45). Since it was 55km north, then west 48 km, then north 12 km, on dirt roads, Fred insisted we call first so back we went to Klein Aus Vista so I could make the call. After letting the phone ring and ring for two minutes, I hung up. So much for that idea.

Plan C

By now, it was around 3 p.m so we studied the map again and decided to head on the paved road east a couple hundred kilometres to Keetmanshoop. Known only for its large amount of petrol stations, we weren’t too excited but everything doesn’t always go as planned. As we were driving along this very straight stretch of highway (the roads are as straight and flat as southern Ontario), we came across a Namibian woman waving a piece of clothing cautioning us to slow down. Seeing vehicles on both sides of the road, we figured it must be an accident. Sure enough, on top of the crest of a hill (the first and one of a few hills on this stretch), about 15 feet up, was a white Nissan car laying on its side, with a bloodied white man holding up his bloodied female passenger.

Kneeling over was another white lady applying some first aid to what we later learned was her sister. Using their cell phone, they contacted emergency requesting a medical helicopter to no avail but apparently an ambulance would be sent. They wanted to get the injured woman to a hospital as soon as they could and we suggested they take them to Keetmanshoop which would be the closest. What a place for an accident to happen – we were about 200 km from Luderitz, 60 or 70 km from the tiny village of Aus, and about 150 km to Keetmanshoop.

We went back to the overturned vehicle and got out their daypacks and a couple of other belongings which had been thrown from the car and gave them to the sister. It was impossible to open up the trunk for their luggage and at that point, wasn’t a priority. The injured couple were helped into the Land Rover with the sister and her boyfriend who high-tailed it towards Keetmanshoop. A French couple, now living in England, who had been travelling in the Land Rover with the sister and her boyfriend, were left at the scene so we offered to drive them to Keetmanshoop. They gratefully jumped in the backseat and off we drove following the Land Rover to the hospital.

Since they were sleeping in the back seat of the Land Rover at the time of the accident, they didn’t see what caused the accident but awoke when they heard the sister scream and looked to see the Nissan sliding sideways out of control then just before they collided with it, it went airborne and flipped 4 times, before landing on the opposite side of the road, 15 feet up the embankment.

After at least an hour, and only 30 km from Keetmanshoop, we finally came across the ambulance. The injured parties were transferred and our passengers went back into the Land Rover. We had learned from our passengers that this woman had just got out of the hospital a couple of weeks ago from reconstructive surgery as a result of an accident she had a couple of years ago. Apparently, she had been jogging and was hit by a car. This poor woman (probably around 30), has spent the last 2 years in and out of the hospital and was encouraged to go on a vacation in South Africa and Namibia to relax…

On arrival in Keetmanshoop, we found a nice hotel right as we entered the town called Canyon Hotel. Even though a swim in the pool would have been wonderful, we had a long day and retired to the room where we watched a couple of movies before dinner (I had a delicious chicken cordon bleu with fries). Just before bed, Fred went to the bar to buy a bottle of water and was approached by the lady with whom we had given the ride to. Unbelieveably, the injured woman only received two broken ribs and several stitches, and the guy, although battered and bruised, did not appear to have any serious injuries. Thank goodness they were wearing their seatbelts! Since the hospital seemed very third-world, they were going to take them to the capital city of Windhoek for a second opinion. The doctor had wanted the injured couple to stay overnight in the hospital but given the hospital conditions, the sister decided they were better off in the comfort of our nice hotel. Although they were only 2 days into their holiday, at least they are still alive. But it makes you wonder if that woman will ever go near a car again.

After about 3,500 km in 15 days driving, we have been through a South African and a Namibian traffic police checkpoint. Apparently, there is a high incidence of drunk driving, speeding, and passing when its unsafe Although there are few vehicles on the road, those that are drive at excessive speeds (our 80 km/hr roads are 120 km/hr here with no paved shoulder!). This includes not only the locals, but the tourists as well (Germans are used to no speed limits on the Autobon). All you can do is stay at the limit (or under!) and drive defensively. Yes, those that know Fred’s driving, I know what you’re thinking…

I have been photographing several of the posted signs cautioning wild animals (feral horses, gemsbok, deer, springbok and saw one that looked like a wolf but we were by it too quickly). The only things we have had to stop for so far have been the ostriches crossing the roadways. Luckily, we haven’t been travelling at night so there’s a less chance of coming upon the other animals during the daytime. On our drive yesterday, we did have a small deer (not sure of the kind – I need to buy a wild animal identification book today) and a mongoose-looking rodent cross the road in the distance in front of us. It is amazing to think about all the wildlife which survive out in the middle of the desert.

Well, my sister has emailed me about a 50 car pile up near Toronto due to the snowy weather conditions so I know those back home reading this blog have their own driving issues to contend with. We don’t have the snow here, but we have signs posted which caution motorists for high winds and blowing sand! I got out of the car and took a photo of the red sand being blown across the roadway in the high winds – it stung my face a lot more than the snow does!

Until next time,

Drive safe!

Lisa n Fred

While staying at the desert resort, Klein Aus Vista, Fred and I had the opportunity to go on a 3-hour “sundowner” sunset safari to see the wild horses of the Namib Desert ($21 each). These are some of the world’s only wild desert-dwelling horses. A small group of 9 of us (one couple were German, the rest South African), climbed into the safari jeep and headed westwards into the desert. Enroute, our guide showed us the domesticated horses that belong to the lodge (a herd of grey Arab-mix, well kept horses) as well as some other bays and blacks on the other side of the roadway.

Passing a caution “wild horses” sign, as well as a caution “gemsbok” sign, we entered the “off-limits” Naukluft Park. Fortunately for us, the Klein Aus Vista resort has permission to give guided tours to see the wild horses. We travelled a few kilometres over a sand roadway before spotting our first herd of wild horses grazing on the dry, grassy scrub vegetation. After getting out of the jeep, I couldn’t get over how absolutely still and quiet our surroundings were. No birds chirping, no wind whistling, no traffic in the distance, and remarkably, nobody was talking. I must say, I have never heard absolutely nothing before.

The herd had around 15 horses, with one foal about a week old. They must be accustomed to the tour groups coming through since they didn’t seem to mind our presence by running away. They continued grazing, but would only allow me to get 30 – 40 feet from them before walking away.

Wild Horses of Namibia

(The following literature has been researched and was given to me from the lodge):

History:

Theories of the origin of the Namib horses abound. A more romantic of the theories tells of a ship carrying thoroughbred horses that ran aground south of Luderitz, and that these horses made their way through the desert to Garub. Another favourite anecdote is that the wife of Baron von Wolf who built the castle at Duwisib, opened the farm gates and set free his nearly 300 horses who ran off into the desert – also to Garub.

But considering the nature of horses, they tend to stay in the area they know as long as there is food and water, and will emigrate to neighbouring areas as a result of population pressure or food and water scarcity.

Therefore the most likely origin of the Garub horses is from horses that were lost in the vicinity of Garub and Aus, which leaves us looking at the people moving through or colonizing that area in the beginning of the 1900’s.

This would include Nama herders, transporters, German farmers, the German Schutztruppe and Allied forces. Considering the necessity of quite a number of horses to start a viable population, First World War activities between Aus and Garub seem to be the most likely contribution to the population.

A recent discovery in the archives could shed some light on the origin of these horses. At the time of the First World War a force of 10 000 union soldiers with 6000 horses were stationed at Garub for 5 weeks. A German aircraft dispatched bombed into a herd of 1700 horses at Garub. It is believed that a number of these horses were not re-captured and formed the core of what we today refer to as the Namib’s feral horses. Important to note is that over the past 90 years other horses could have joined their ranks. Oral history records that feral horses were already roaming the area in the mid 20s.

For the first 70-80 years of their existence, the horses lived predominantly in the Sperrgebiet Diamond Area, which made them reasonably inaccessible to hunters and horse capturers – a saving grace for these horses. They also survived as a result of the goodwill of a few key people who ensured that there was water at Garub; one central figure was Jan Coetzer from CDM, who showed personal interest in the well being of the feral horses.

Ecology:

The horses today reside in a core area of 350 km2. This area is part of the southern desert vegetation type (biome) with patches of succulent Karoo vegetation. Trees mostly occur on the mountains, dunes and along dry river courses, the most remarkable tree is the Camelthorn Tree (Acadia Erioloba). The 3 main grass species that the horses utilize are short and tall bushman grass and weather love grass.

The following morning, we returned to see the feral horses, this time at their watering trough at Garub. On our arrival, around 10:30 a.m., we were surprised to see a gathering of about 8 ostriches and 6 gemsbok (oryx). Within minutes, a herd of horses came trotting from the desert with their ears perked forward, eagerly anticipating a refreshing drink of water. The oncoming presence of the horses soon scattered the gemsbok away from the watering hole. It was obvious to see, as we watched for an hour, the pecking order of the water hole.

According to the article, the availability of grazing and the prevailing temperatures influence the drinking frequency of the horses. When grass is abundant close to the troughs, they will drink every day. When grazing is far and temperatures low, most horses will only drink once every third day.

The Namib horses spend most of their time grazing (71%) in times with average food availability. The rest of their time they spend sleeping (17%), playing and for comfort behaviour (3.5%), and trekking to the water (8.5%). When food is good and plenty, they decrease the tie spent grazing and increase playing and comfort behaviour.

Population Dynamics

It is estimated that the population of horses has fluctuated between 50 and 280 horses during their 90 years of existence. The first census of the horses on record is an aerial count done in 1985 when 168 horses were counted, after that most likely the highest number of horses occurred in 1991 when 276 horses were counted. Several died during the 1992 drought and 104 were captured and sold for domestication (our guide told us the sold for R80 or about $8 U.S.)

Since December 1993, the horses were individually identified and accurate records of all births and deaths have been kept which showed that the population varied naturally between 89 and 149 horses.

The population consists of several family/breeding groups/bands and bachelor stallions. The breeding groups consist of one or more adult stallions, adult mares, their offspring and other juvenile fillies or colts; sometimes an “outsider” stallion also associates with the group. The breeding group size varies between 2 and 12 individuals. Bachelor stallions live alone or in small groups up to 4 individuals, they are not associated with a breeding group. The number and frequency of occurring group changes increase with human interference (such as captures) and severe stress during droughts.

The number of foals born each year depends mainly on the rainfall during the previous year and the number of breeding mares. Mortality rates are high, especially during the droughts such as in 1998. Under normal conditions, the survival rate for foals is 70% and for adults under 20 years, it is above 95%. During droughts, this changes dramatically and survival of foals drops to 25%; the rate also rapidly decreases for adults older than 15 years.

Deaths of several horses during droughts are a necessary natural population control method. Removal of wild horses due to domestication is not an ideal solution since it causes stress within the wild population as well as adaptation problems for the removed horses. Of the 104 horses removed in 1992, almost half had died within 5 years due to difficulties of adaptation to the changed conditions.

Mares in the herd have a greater energy demand when they carry and raise foals and therefore are affected by nutritional stress and old age much earlier than stallions. The male biased sex ratio among the Namib horses is in reality an advantage to the population since it contributes to genetic variability by the formation of smaller breeding groups rather than a few big groups.

Population Status (as of September 2006)

Foals born during past 8 months: 21 (9 colts; 12 fillies)
Number of breeding groups: 21
Number of bachelor stallions: 25
Total number of females: 74
Total number of males: 93

(Updated 2008 population status is 176 horses, of which 100 are stallions).

People admire the horses roaming free in the desert, they stand for freedom and space what we are all striving for . . .

Happy Trails,

Lisa n Fred

After leaving Gecko Creek Lodge (Cederberg Wilderness Area), we took the N7 and headed north to Namibia. After a brief stop to fill up with gas in the scenic town of Springbok, we continued through the Northern Cape’s rugged and desolate landscape until we reached the border about 4 ½ hours later. Luckily, I was able to pick up a CD in Clanwilliam – AC DC’s Black Ice (I should know all the lyrics by now!) and it sure helped with this long stretch as we cruised along at 120 km/hr (the speed limit!).

We had no problems going through customs and actually found the agents, especially on the Namibian side, quite friendly. We took note of the Nomad overland truck tour that was also present, filled with about 12 excited tourists ready to begin their African adventure. Fred and I had contemplated taking this same overland tour, however, decided against being locked into a rigid schedule and possibly potential aggravating fellow travellers.

Once over the border, we drove to Felix Unite in hopes of spending a night in a cabana overlooking the Orange River. Upon arrival, we were advised they were full, but recommended the relatively new Noordoewer Guesthouse B & B back 9 km at the junction from where we had just come. Luckily, they had a spacious room with private bath and air-con, delicious breakfast and a cold beer ($50/night). After settling in, we drove back to Felix Unite to book a ½ day canoe trip for the next morning, as well as to have dinner there. Not surprisingly, the Nomad group were there setting up their tents. We enjoyed our South African red wine ($4/bottle that we had brought with us) while overlooking the Orange River at sunset. The colours of the sky were fantastic and that was the first “double rainbow” I had ever seen.

After having one of the best sleeps of my life, we woke up early (6 a.m.) to get ready for our canoe trip. We ended up canoeing with the same Nomad group for 3 hours down the Orange River. The river’s source is 2250 km away in Lesotho. We saw the great Goliath Heron, some Reed Cormorants, Malachite Kingfishers, and several thrushes, flycatchers, sparrows, and finches (among many others that I am unable to identify). The paddling was easy (Grade 2 or 2.5) but after 3 hours, we were ready to stand up on land. Fortunately, it was a cloudy morning so the temperature was bearable.

We hopped back into the car and headed northwest to our next destination about 3 hours away – the Ai-Ais (Nama for “scalding hot”) hot springs (60 degrees C). Just as I was looking forward to a theraputic soak, a couple of fellow motorists flagged us down just a few kilometres before the entrance and advised us that Ai-Ais was closed. Subsequently, we had to change our plans and accommodation for the evening and after a quick reference to the guide book, found ourselves at Canon Village. This was our biggest budget-buster yet at $140/night but the room, refreshing pool, and gourmet dinner did not disappoint. Once again, we enjoyed a spectacular sunset over the rocky canyon with another double rainbow ( it hadn’t rained where we were). As the sun was setting, crawling quickly on the sand towards us, was the Buthidae Scorpion – dangerously venomous. This was my first siting ever of a scorpion so I quickly activated the telephoto and snapped a photo of it – just before it scurried under our table, narrowly missing Fred’s big toe.

The next morning, we drove to Fish River Canyon which measures 160 km in length and up to 27 km in width, with a depth which reaches 550m. Although there is an extensive network of hikes, it is not allowed during the summer season due to extreme heat and flash floods. So we were only able to admire it from above – maybe next time we will partake in the 5 day, 85 km, mule-assisted hike. This is the second largest canyon in the world – the Grand Canyon in Arizona being the largest.

We left the canyon and continued north along a dirt road before reaching the tar road to turn west to a tiny town called Aus. Our destination is the Klein-Aus Lodge (deluxe room $100) where we plan to go out to see the Wild Horses of the Namib desert. It took some convincing on my part to get Fred to agree to drive to this area to see the feral horses (“I didn’t come all the way to Africa to see horses 🙁 “

Fast Facts about Namibia: (taken from the Lonely Planet: Southern Africa 2007 edition)

– a predominantly arid country and has some of the world’s grandest national parks
– it is the geographical size of Texas
– the Namib Desert is one of the oldest and driest deserts in the world
– population is about 1.83 million
– 1 litre of gas US $0.70
– leading cause of death since 1996 is AIDS
– in 2003, it was estimated that about 21% of the population were HIV positive and by 2021, it is estimated that up to a third of Namibia’s children under the age of 15 could be orphaned
life expectancy has dropped to 54 years of age, however, some other sources report as low as 46
– has one of Africa’s lowest population densities at 2 people per square km

Until next time,

Lisa n Fred

After spending a week in Cape Town, Fred and I took the N7 tarred highway and headed north. Since it’s a 7 hour drive to the Namibian border, we decided to stay a night somewhere in between to break up the drive. After reading about the Cederberg Wilderness Area in the Lonely Planet, described as a “must-see”, I checked the “Alternative Route” {accommodation guide for independent travellers which I had picked up free at the hostel) and read about a lodge bordering the wilderness area.

We were supposed to turn off the highway 29 km from the town of Citrusdal. I had been keeping an eye on the odometer, but for some reason, we missed the turn and ended up in the next town of Clanwilliam. After stopping for more concrete directions from a local (“it is just after the little store on the left that is closed now, it is just before you get to the red and white tower”) we headed back south, only this time, there was no missing the big green sign. We realized why I had missed the sign – it was because when we had come over the hill, we entered into a green, lush valley where farm labourers were working on the left hand side in a watermelon field, and on the right hand side, I was distracted by watching a white egret land on a horse’s rump out in the grassy field and the horse bucked the bird off! I had never seen that before and it’ll be one of those scenes that I’ll always remember.

We turned east off the tarred highway onto a reddish dirt road and over a narrow bridge. The Olifants River Valley (Olifants means Elephant in the “Afrikaan” language) used to have the highest concentration of elephants in Africa, with one herd having 250 or more – now unfortunately, there are none. We continued another 4.2 km on this dry, dirt road before reaching the sign “Gecko Creek”. I opened the gate and we drove in, noting a sign that read Danger Pasop with a picture of what looked like an ostrich on it. Surprisingly, this Pasop was right beside the roadway but by the time I had got my camera, it had gone.

We continued driving over a tiny, narrow bridge and along a dirt track over the hills and through the valley. As we drove, small green signs indicated a 25 km/hr speed limit and warned of Wild Animals and Tortoises. The area is full of small and large clumps of grass, brush, and and other unique vegetation so I was on the lookout for something to pop out at us at any given moment. At the top of one of the hills, a Danger sign read Wolf with a picture of a wolf on it. Fred and I questioned whether there are wolves in South Africa or was this just a joke?

Continuing on, after about a 10 minute slow drive on private property, we arrived in a valley to Gecko Creek Lodge – a 517 hectare private nature reserve . The setting couldn’t have been more magical – a perfect paradise in the remote African wilderness. Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by the owner/manager, Linton Pope, as well as his North American timber wolf named Hoka. Linton had rescued Hoka from being put down years ago and he is now a treasured member of the Gecko Creek family. We were briefed on some very important “Wolf Rules” which were further explained hanging up in the kitchen (there were a couple of rules Fred recounted later that I hadn’t heard in the earlier conversation – I asked him how he knew about them and he said “Didn’t you read the sign in the kitchen? You usually read everything in sight.” But, then we laughed realizing, as those of you that know me, that the kitchen is not one of my usual hangouts!

Linton introduced us to Charles, an employee of the lodge originally from Zimbabwe, whose wife and children still reside there while he makes a living and sends his salary home from South Africa. Charles showed us to our wooden cabin with a spectacular view overlooking the valley, nestled between the Cederberg Mountains. For a moment, I was worried that I had not converted the Rand to the Dollar properly and that this place was $400/night and not $40/night! If the wooden cabin (king-sized bed, soft African-themed linen, walkout french doors, with a hammock on the front private) had an ensuite bathroom and electricity, it might just carry that price tag!

Charles then showed us around the property – a very clean, beautiful salt-water pool overlooking the valley and “Leopard Rock”, his and her washrooms with hot showers (despite being given the tour, Fred ended up showering the first day on the girls’ side – he must have had a hard time distinguishing between the brass, topless African lady hanging on the wall of the entrance from the men’s wall hanging – or was this his plan? . . . ). There’s also what is called a “boma” – a small, circular area where guests gather at night to lay back on bean bag chairs, drink, converse, and star gaze around a campfire. Also located in here are several “braii” (a barbecue; a South African institution). Finally, Charles showed us the “lapa” – a large, thatched common area used for eating and socializing, as well as the grassy area just outside where Linton welcomes his guests to sit around for a “sundowner” and exchange their stories. If you ever find yourself at Gecko Creek, be sure to ask Linton how he was finally able to teach Hoka who was dominant and the funny story about the Canadian girl who thought that “Pasop” was a particular species of bird 🙂

After a relaxing swim in the 35 degree C heat (it is not the uncomfortable, humid heat we get in Canada), and a refreshing shower, we made our way to the lapa for dinner. Fred was starving and I had read that there were “prepared meals”. However, we were advised that they no longer offer this service, but not wanting to have to drive into town (30 km) after driving all day, luckily Rhino (a visiting tour guide) and Ingrid (a very kind German lady who helps out around the property and is the resident “wolf-sitter”) came to our rescue and served us our best steak and potatoes dinner yet – topped off with chocolate mousse:)

The next morning, Fred and I headed into the friendly town of Clanwilliam for groceries, etc. Already at this point, we knew we wanted to stay longer to relax and soak up the spirit of Gecko Creek. What had originally started out as staying a day or two, ended up being 6 nights and 7 days. For those of you following our blogs, this is uncharacteristic of our travels which have been on average, one, two, or maybe three nights. We quite easily fell into the routine of sleeping in, enjoying our morning coffee in the lapa, going out for a hike or short-distance driving excursion, coming back hot and in need of a refreshing swim (pool temperature was 82 F which was perfect), having a warm shower, then meeting up with everyone for the 6:30 p.m sundowner. After a couple of sundowners, then everyone headed for the kitchen or braii to begin dinner. Fred and I alternated cooking dinners (well, at least I have two varieties of spaghetti in my repertoire), then it was relaxing late into the night with a glass or two (or 3) of red wine either by the fire in the boma or else the comfort of the lapa.

Gecko Creek Lodge and the Cederberg Wilderness Area truly deserve a 10-day stay to explore its many assets. Cederberg is a 71,000 hectare area has world-renowned rock and cliff climbing as well as caves with 1,000 year old San (indigenous people formerly known as Bushmen) rock paintings. At Gecko Creek, Charles gave us a tour to Leopard’s Rock which hides 10,000 – 12,000 year old San rock paintings (they have been carbon dated from a museum employee). As well, we hiked to Elephant Rock (it really does look like an elephant, along with a second elephant just behind it) as well as a climb to the very top of Gecko Creek property with a stunning, 360 degree view of the mountain range.

At the National Park entrance of Algeria, just a 10 minute drive down the dirt road, we also trekked to the waterfall and soaked ourselves after the climb up in 40 degree heat during midday (note to self – leave much earlier and remember to take water!!!). We also drove to one of South Africa’s finest wineries, a further half hour down the road. This winery has won many national awards for its fine wines. We picked up a fine red Pinotage for only $5. Further on, we went horseback riding down in the valley and through small streams, looking up at the majestic mountains. 4 km further down the road are caves with 1,000 year old rock paintings. Linton also arranged for us to take a scenic flight over the Cederberg Wilderness Area in a 12 seater plane. Another day was spent driving an hour to the Atlantic Coast to see Bird Island at Lambert’s Bay and the thousands of Cape Gannet sea birds on their rock island.

But, as one of my favourite sayings goes, “All good things must come to an end.” Well, I guess they didn’t have to. We could have stayed for months – Gecko Creek is just one of those rare, remote, pieces of paradise tucked away in a corner of the world that has yet to be truly discovered. I sure hope it stays this way. Although the owner was strongly against installing electricity, the high cost of operating the pool, etc necessitated it. Plus, I think guests prefer an ice-cold drink in 35+ C temperatures. For anyone out there contemplating writing an autobiography, poetry, music, or any other form of literature, this is the place to do it! Check out their website at www.geckocreek.com

After a heartfelt goodbye, it was time to move on to explore new countries in southern Africa. Next stop – the remote and sparsely populated, desert country of Namibia!

Lisa n Fred

From left: Fred preparing to meet Jaws, pouring the bloodmeal trail, getting lowered into the ocean, the Great White 🙂

After spending a week in the lovely city of Cape Town, Fred and I ventured 2.5 hours (200 km) east, along the Atlantic coast to the village of Gansbaii. Years ago, we had read about diving in a shark cage to see Great White Shark and finally, we had our opportunity.

As we lay there quietly, motionless, in the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean, suddenly, an immense dark figured started to swim towards us. It swam directly for us, then suddenly, veered away. Luckily, for Fred and I, plus four others, we were “safely” confined inside a steel shark cage.

The 4 metre beast continued to circle around and approach our cage. After initially being lured by the foul smell of “bloodmeal” – a combination of blood and fish guts purposely poured behind us by the crew, the shark was further enticed to our cage with tuna bait which was thrown out on a rope and pulled towards our cage. This encouraged the shark to steer directly towards us, sometimes biting angrily at our cage because it was denied its meal.

The dive operators never allow the great whites to eat the tuna bait as they don’t want the sharks to associate getting fed with boats. Fortunately, the 8 dive operators working out of the town of Gansbaai, South Africa (cited as the “Great White Shark Capital of the World”) have not had a casualty yet 🙂 Strict rules must be followed and a waiver signed (along with a cost of $80 – $120 each, depending on where you book) before being lowered into the deep ocean waters. They guarantee a shark siting (a 99% chance), otherwise, you get a free trip the next day. For us, it was only @ 10 minutes before our first shark siting.

After staying a night at the Marine Bay Guest House in Keinbaii, (private room + shark diving for $90 each), we went to Michael Rutzen’s, “Shark Diving Unlimited”. We figured this must be a very reputable company since celebrities such as Brad Pitt, Leonardo Di Caprio (both in June ’06), the King of Jordan, and His Royal Highness Prince Harry among others have allowed themselves to be lowered inside their cage. Also, just a couple of months ago, CNN reporter Anderson Cooper was on board to film a documentary. Perhaps you have already seen “Beyond Fear” (National Geographic) or “Sharkman” (Discovery Channel).

Despite viewing their celebrity photos inside the clubhouse, I looked through the guest book and saw where they signed their attendance. Brad Pitt commented “Eyeball to Eyeball” while Leo wrote “Unforgettable experience”. We happened to be dining at the same restaurant (Ernie’s) with the skipper the night before when he got a call that “One Republic” would be sailing with them shortly. Since I was the only one who knew who they were and could vouch for their great music, I was invited to join them – unfortunately, we had to move on. I would have loved to “Stop and Stare” at them!

Fred and I boarded the “Baracuda” with 10 others who were equally as excited to experience “Jaws”. After donning our 7 mm wet suit, somehow I ended up being the first one lowered into the shark cage. I was directed to move over to the far right – which meant I was exposed on two sides! Despite wearing a weight belt, I still found it challenging to keep my feet on the floor of the cage without them escaping out of the cage. We were in the cage for about 15 minutes and the shark(s) came by at least 8 eight times. The largest one was 4 metres (@12 feet). Apparently, the largest shark to visit a boat in this area was 7.1 metres! Also, they have tagged a shark and found that they are very mobile. One in particular swam all the way to Australia in 99 days. The skipper estimated a daily shark turnover of 80% which would account for the fact that the sharks continue to chase the tuna, despite never being allowed to get a hold of it and eat it.

After a few hours at sea, we headed back to shore and were advised to keep a look out for whales. We had several sitings of the “Southern Right Whale” just off shore the day before (mothers with their calves) but we didn’t see any on our way back into Gainsbaii. Once back on shore, we had a small lunch at Shark Diving Unlimited and watched the video of our adventure. We purchased a DVD of our footage, along with a second DVD of a documentary of Michael Rutzen’s “free diving” with the great whites (he is one of only a few people in the world who free dive with these sharks). Check out their website at www.sharkdivingunlimited.com

By noon, we were ‘on the road again’ for more exciting adventures.

Stay tuned 🙂

Lisa n Fred

Great White Scare!

Pictures just don’t do justice . . .

Hi All,

Just to let you know, we haven’t fallen over a cliff or died of heat exhaustion…..yet!

I have written a few blogs, they are on my laptop, but unfortunately, haven’t found any wi-fi or hotspots these past 10 days or more to be able to put them on our blog so please be patient!

Fred and I went shark diving with a 4m Great White Shark in the Atlantic Ocean. Here are some pics I had loaded, the text will be added later when I can hook up!

Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays!

Cheers,

Lisa n Fred, currently in a cattle ranching community in central Namibia!

Well, after all the researching and reading we’ve been doing, we have our white, Nissan car (with air-con, but stickshift), and we’re beginning our southern Africa adventure tomorrow. The plan – a 6 to 8 week (flexible) driving adventure around southern Africa. Destinations include Namibia, Botswana, Mozambique, Swaziland, and Lesotho (crime permitting). The car was only $28 U.S. per day, but when we factor the cost of the country permits ($100 each to enter Namibia, Botswana, Mozambique and Swaziland) it comes to $38 U.S. per day. Which is still a very good deal. We spoke with a couple of German guys who are in the room next to us and they had rented a similar car to ours and drove around South Africa for 3 weeks without any problems.

We took the car for a “test drive” today, about an hour and a half drive down to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. Although Fred has driven all over Europe, Asia, and in South America, it still takes a little adjusting to get used to shifting gears with your left hand, using the clutch with your left foot, and driving on the left hand side, but we made out just fine, and at least all the signs are in English 🙂

After eating a delicious cheeseburger in paradise on the waterfront at Bertha’s (Simon’s Point), and listening to a live African calypso band playing Christmas songs, we drove to Boulder’s Beach (False Bay) to see the “African Penguins”. Hundreds of penguins were wandering freely on the beach, some were nesting in holes in the sand. From just two breeding pairs in 1982, the penguin colony has grown to about 3 000 in this protected environment.

The African Penguins

Here are some fast facts about the African Penguins:

– the African penguin is listed in the Red Data Book as a vulnerable species
of the 1.5 million African Penguin population estimated in 1910, only some 10% remained at the end of the 20th century. The uncontrolled harvesting of the penguin eggs (as a source of food) nearly drove the species to extinction.
– Because of their donkey-like braying call (and we got to listen to them), they were previously named the Jackass Penguin.
– Their diet consists mainly of squid and shoal fish such as pilchards and anchovy
they can swim at an average speed of 7 km/hr and they can stay submerged for up to 2 minutes
– their enemies in the ocean include sharks, Cape fur seals and, on occasion, killer whales (Orca). Land based enemies include mongoose, genet, domestic cats and dogs, and the kelp Gulls which steal their eggs and new born chicks
– their distinctive black and white colouring is a vital form of camouflage (white for underwater predators looking upwards and black for predators looking down onto the water)
– the main breeding season is in February and they are a monogamous species. The lifelong partners take turns to incubate their eggs and to feed their young

Their peak moulting season is December, after which they head out to sea to feed (since they do not feed during moulting), so we were very lucky to be able to see them on the beach. Most of them had moulted except for a few that were still losing their feathers. They return again in January to mate and begin nesting from about February to August. Tourists are warned that penguins have very sharp beaks and can cause serious injury if they bite or lunge. We were able to get so close to them that we could have pet them. Afterwards, we watched some footage of “City Slickers”, a story about a penguin named Henry and his life. It is very well done so I picked up a DVD (53 minutes) to show my Grade 4 students as part of their Science Unit on Habitats and Adaptations 🙂

We continued south and entered the Table Mountain National Park, “Cape of Good Hope”. I remember first learning about this famous location in Grade 6 (Famous Explorers Unit) that is still taught today. Finally, I could add a vivid image to my mental schema (pre-existing background knowledge) – hahaha, just thought I’d throw in some teacher-talk! It was just as I imagined – crashing waves, white caps, and gale force winds. What I hadn’t visioned was the dozens of Japanese tourists and seeing wildlife. We saw a family of baboons (wow, they look mean), and an ostrich grazing by the ocean. Apparently there are also zebras but we didn’t see any.

Baboon crossing

Here are some fast facts about the baboons we saw:

the Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus troops on the Cape Peninsula are the only protected population of this species in Africa
they subsist on fruits, roots, honey, bulbs, insects and scorpions
during low tide, they may be seen roaming on the beaches, feeding on sand hoppers and shellfish, behaviour believed to be unusual in primates
baboons are dangerous and are attracted by food (visitors must not feed or tease them)
baboons that have been conditioned to receive food from humans may have to be destroyed

The landscape reminded me of the Snowden Mountain region of Wales – rocky, scrub grass, and very hilly/mountainous. The Cape lies between two major ocean currents, the Indian and the Atlantic Oceans. Apparently, there is a difference of marine life between the two major ocean currents, due to the differing sea temperatures.

Cape of Good Hope

After three VERY windy days (southeasterlies called the Cape Doctor here), we are ready to begin our overland adventure. We have spent the last few days getting ready for the next leg of our journey. Fred was able to get his Canadian eye prescription filled for replacement eye/sunglasses/contacts (from when his daypack got stolen at the bus terminal in Tumbes, Peru) and we’ve also stocked up on toiletries, and other supplies (have still to hit a music store to pickup some CDs for some very long drives ahead). I also went to a Kodak store and had our 500+ photos on the camera put onto a DVD (only $2) and did some shopping (I bought 3 Billabong swim suits, 2 light weight tank tops (Viscose/Spandex), and a cotton pullover for a swimsuit, plus, 2 folding, small beach chairs), getting our hair cut/highlighted (I absolutely must recommend “Scar” hairdressing salon), taking our clothes to the landromat, and watching a movie at the cinema (in English “Body of Lies” starring Russell Crowe and Leonardo di Caprio – excellent). We also purchased a couple of “buffs” (National Geographic theme), which are made of a lightweight, breathable material which are used over your head/ears/nose/mouth to protect you from high winds, sun, and sandstorms.

Today, we are heading 200 km east to a fishing village called Gansbaai, on the Indian Ocean. Fred and I will be engaging in our first, hopefully of many, “extreme” adventures here in AFRICA 🙂

Stay tuned,

Lisa n Fred

Greetings from South Africa!

Fred and I flew direct from Buenos Aires to Cape Town on a Malaysian Airlines 747 jumbo jet (7 hours direct) on December 4th. We took the Backpacker Bus ($10 each) to Cape Town Backpacker Hostel where we were happy to be shown to our “suite” room in the recently renovated colonial style building. Our large room has 12 foot ceilings, the best shower yet, plus a walkout covered balcony with a spectacular view of table top mountain ($40/night) where we enjoy our coffees in the morning (that Fred makes using his filter). The only downside – no air-con or fan so the room is about 80 degrees, despite the balcony door being open. Then, with the door open, we hear the late night revelers coming in at all hours, hootin’ and hollerin’. Since our arrival, we have been fortunate to have sunny skies and 32 – 35 degree Celsius heat. I have checked the Toronto weather so will not complain anymore about our hot room (but that is why I am still awake at 1 a.m. writing this blog).

After a few hours nap, we spent the first day checking out the neighbourhood and gathering up all the travel brochures, pamplets, and tourist info we could find. We then went to a good bookstore and purchased the latest edition of Lonely Planet’s “Southern Africa” and Lonely Planet’s “East Africa”. We have used Fodor’s, Foot Print’s, Frommers’, and Rough Guide’s, but find the Lonely Planet gives the best information for people who prefer to travel independently. After a delicious plate of Penne Amatriciana at the Pasta Factory, we returned to our room to read, read, and read.

Fast Facts about South Africa (taken from Southern Africa Lonely Planet 2007 edition)

– five times the size of the UK, population 46.9 million
– world’s third most biologically diverse country
– one of Africa’s most urbanised – appoximately 60% of the population living in towns and cities
pressing issues include crime, economic inequality, overhauling the education system, and especially, AIDS
– an estimated 4.5 million South Africans are affected with AIDS – more than any other country in the world – it’s the leading cause of death in S. Africa
– since becoming a democracy for over a decade, the nation is fast becoming a society divided by class rather than colour – the gap between rich and poor is vast – one of the highest in the world
– South Africa has the highest incidence of reported rape in the world – with approximately 52,000 cases reported to the police annually, and a woman is assaulted every 26 to 60 seconds on average (the real figures could be much worse since not all women report victimization – and 20 to 40% are of girls below 18 years of age)
– football, rugby, and cricket are the favourite sports
– S. Africa is bordered by the cool Atlantic Ocean on the west and the warmer Indian waters on the east

City Bus Tour

The next day, we took an open air, city bus tour ($12 each) to get an overview of the city (population 3.2 million). It was a hop on/hop off one, so at the mid-point, we jumped off to enjoy a drink at the waterfront (pint of beer $2, glass of house red wine $1.95). We couldn’t believe how busy with tourists it was and how inexpensive the myriad of restaurants were. Fine dining at waterfront restaurants for two people for less than $25, with a view of Table Top Mountain in the background. Wow. We have been enjoying delicious breakfasts (finally!) for under $5 each, our lunches have been @ $12 (for two), and dinners around $20 (for two). We are finding the prices here cheaper than in Argentina, Uruguay, and Chile. Plus the food is twice as good 🙂

Our tour took us through several areas of the city including government buildings, the parliament house, museums, conference centres, and even a castle (with a moat around it) and also the beaches area. The guide on the bus pointed out the British billionaire, Richard Bronson’s triamaran in the waters of Clifton Bay. He also showed us where the likes of Leonardo Di Caprio stays when he comes to Cape Town and pointed out ultra modern, million dollar homes with veniculars and underground garages complete with elevators. Apparently, Bill Gates owns two homes in Cape Town. We also saw where they are constructing a new futbol (soccer) stadium to host the 2010 World Cup.

Yes, Cape Town is still a city of extremes and pockets of neighbourhoods are still very black – white, although not like it was during apartheid. Fred and I plan to go on a tour of the shanty towns (we went on a favela tour in Rio and found it very informative). We have been advised to stay in certain areas and avoid others, just like any other city. The hostel manager has advised to not be at the train station after 5 p.m. (there is a tourit train you can take to Simon’s Point).

Ferry to Robben Island

Our next day, we took the ferry (30 minutes) to Robben Island to tour the maximum security prison where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years. The island has been used for several purposes over the last few hundred years and at one point, was a leper colony. It wasn’t until the island was needed during World War II that the lepers were allowed to go back to the mainland.

Our Guide shows us Nelson Mandela’s cell

Prisoners were incarcerated right up until 1996 on Robben Island. Now, it is a museum and a World Heritage Site, and one of the most popular destinations in Cape Town. Nelson Mandela was freed from prison on 11 February 1990. Once all the prisoners had been released, the prison became a museum in 1997.

Table Mountain

What an amazing way to spend a Saturday night. Climb aboard a cable car to take you up 1,200 metres to the top of Table Mountain. The cable car holds 65 people and what is really unique is that it rotates on the way up so everyone gets the same impressive views. In one hour, it can take 900 people to the top! Also, it is half price ($7.25 each) after 6 p.m. 🙂

There wasn’t a single cloud in the sky and the 360 degree views were spectacular. We didn’t realize how mountainous and hilly the Cape Town area was until we were on top of the mountain. Plus, we had the added enjoyment of being able to crack open some bubbly and sip away as the sun set. It seems to be the thing to do while watching the sun go down. We also witnessed the very rare phenomenon of seeing a “green flash” as the sun sets over the ocean. This particular flash was actually quite large, and we saw the sun turn green for a few seconds before setting.

Sunday in Cape Town

Once again, we awoke to sunny skies and sweltering heat. There’s no better way to spend a Sunday than to head to the beach for a little sun, sand, and surf. We chose “Camps Bay” which is one of the more sheltered and popular ones. It seemed that most of Cape Town was on the beach, enjoying the light sea breeze and a very refreshing dip in the ocean (average temperature is 10 – 14 degrees C). It was no doubt the coldest water we have ever “swam” in – more like a very quick dip to cool off. A google search shows tomorrow to be almost equally as hot, so our only decisions for tomorrow will be, which beach? SPF 45 or SPF 15? Diet Coke or Water?

As you can see, Cape Town is a city with lots to see and do – we have only scratched the surface! We had originally planned to stay for a week but our plans may change 🙂

Cheers,

Lisa n Fred

Howdy all! In our last post, Gringos n’ Gauchos, I forgot to post that Juan, the vet, expertly removed my stitches (from my fall in Peninsula Valdes). Luckily he was able to remove them, as they were not the soluable ones and they had been in my head for about three weeks. His spouse, Susanne, a nurse, was also assisting and advised my gash was not infected and was healing very well 🙂

Have you ever wished you could turn back the calendar to the days of no telephones, cable televisions, or internet computers? Or have you ever longed for a place so remote and peaceful, without intrusive neighbours, loud traffic, or congested streets? If you have answered “yes” to either of these questions, then I have found the perfect place for you.

Situated on 1,000 hectares of rolling, grassy fields is “Panagea” – an authentic, working ranch in the South American country of Uruguay. Uruguay is the size of North Dakota and has a population of about 3.4 million, with 44% of them residing in the capital city of Montevideo. Most of the population live in the cities and towns along the Atlantic coast in the south and the Uruguay River in the west. Therefore, some property owners living in the north, central, and eastern regions of the country own vast amounts of land. Although some of the land is used for wheat farming and “bodegas”, or vineyards, most of the land is used for cattle and sheep ranches.

After leaving Estancia La Paz, Fred and I headed northeast in search of Panagea. My only knowledge of the existence of this place, was from “googling” “authentic estancia in uruguay” or something to that effect, while using my wi-fi laptop, poolside. There was no website for Panagea, however, the place came up on a few travellers’ blogs. After reading their blogs, and seeing the attached photos, Panagea sounded like my kind of paradise and the experience we were seeking. I must admit I left out a few “details” when reading the blogs to Fred so as not to deter him from going 🙂 Fred was quite content to stay at this resort ranch with swimming pool, BBC, and fine dining cuisine.

The blogs left an email address in which to contact Juan and I immediately emailed him that we would like to come. Given the fact that there is no electricity or computer at Panagea, the blog advised Juan would respond whenever he went to town. I was relieved to get an email back that we could come, along with the following information about the ranch:

“The ranch offers a great opportunity to experience life on a working farm, such as herding sheep and cattle, vaccinating animals, assisting in lambing and calving, shearing and much more, depending on the season.
We always work on horseback and if you choose to join us, we can teach you how to ride, even if you have never done it before.
However, our primary business is ranching, so please be aware that you will be part of a normal farming life. That means that you will stay in the family house, in basic but comfortable bedrooms. The food is simple and is typical gaucho homestyle cooking, therefore, nothing fancy. if you are vegetarian please let us know in advance.
Being far from the city, there is no electricity, we have a generator that makes it available only 3 hours per evening, as well the hot showers. The rest of the night is by candle light or firelight. Take warm clothes in the winter, and be aware they can become dirty!
Since there is no internet or mobile coverage, sometimes it takes a while before we answer your mail or call. We check our mail only when going to the city.
We will appreciate your help and assistance on the ranch, but you are also welcome to relax and enjoy the many other activities as fishing, swimming, hiking, badminton, volleyball, bird watching – or one of the 1900 movies we have in our collection.
The price of this experience is $35 dollars per person, which includes:
-accommodation (we have 4 double rooms and two triple rooms)
-3 meals a day
-snacks and fruits
-mineral water/tea/coffee
-horse riding, including. all gear
-pick up from the bus terminal in Tacuarembó
We speak English, French, Portuguese, German, and, yes, Spanish.
P.S. The best months to visit are spring and autumn, meaning September, October, November, March and April. The others are either too hot, or too cold. Be aware that January is really hot, and June and July are extremely cold in Uruguay.
Also, note; if you are a British teenager; we are not a party place nor an entertainment center.
If you are a sixty something North American; we are not a restaurant nor have Sheraton like facilities,
We are a real South American ranch. For both; we can recommend excellent places in Buenos Aires and Montevideo, with much better entertaining life and better accommodation and large menu restaurants.

So, Fred and I drove 4 1/2 hours across the mostly flat plains of Uruguay with hardly another car in sight. It was another hot day, but some cloud cover offered us some relief from not having any air conditioning. Panagea is located about 45 minutes west of Tacuarembo – the heart of the “gaucho” , or cowboy, homeland (population 40,000). It is about an hour south of the Brazilian border, three hours east of Argentina, and about a 5 ½ hour drive north of Montevideo. We turned off the “main” highway, and headed down the gravel/dirt road for 9km before reaching the handpainted sign, “Panagea”. We were finally there 🙂

We were first me by a Swiss couple, Pierre and Katarina who are staying at Juan and Susanne’s for the high season to help out with the guests.They had previously been guests at the ranch on a couple of other occasions and have developed a strong friendship. There was only one other couple there – a young Finnish couple who recognized us from Hostel El Diablo Tranquilo in Punta del Diablo. They were on their way up north towards Igaussu Falls and had already spent a few days there. They had an interesting experience at the ranch under their bed -a gigantic tarantula! (needless to say, I always checked under my bed before going to sleep, and shook out my shoes before wearing them!) We were shown to our room in the house and were immediately made to feel very comfortable. The pumpkin soup, salad, and fruit salad Katarina then prepared for us was delicious! Everything was much better than I had anticipated 🙂

A little later Juan arrived from town and within 10 minutes, we were saddled up and hittin’ the fields. We rode from 5:00 p.m. until 7:30 p.m., checking the cattle in one of the fields. Juan and his gaucho help check the herds twice a day for any injuries or recent births of calves. If one of his cattle gets a cut, within a couple of days maggots will infest the wound if left untreated. If a cow is found dead in the field, it is usually one of four possiblities: struck by lightning, injested anthrax from the grass, a snake bite (there are poisonous snakes here), or death by one of seven main diseases (tetnus being one of them).

Juan Luque is the owner/operator of Panagea, who, after completing his seven-year veterinarian studies at Montevideo Univeristy, worked treating small and large animals, and now has a limited client base in order to have time to run his ranch and tourist business.

Juan raises Brangus cattle (a cross between Brahman and Angus cattle) because they are able to resist many diseases and can handle the climate. He has approximately 800 cattle (3 bulls), 300 sheep, and 80 horses (2 dun coloured stallions). Juan keeps the cows but sells the steers when they are about 200 kg. Because of the recession now, Juan has had to keep his steers since the price is too low to sell. It was because of the 2002 economic crisis that Juan decided to open up his “estancia” (Spanish word for farm) to tourism.

Throughout the year, Juan and his Swiss spouse, Susanne, accommodate a small number of travellers who are looking for the gaucho experience. Visitors staying at the ranch are all eager to test their skills and abilities herding cattle or sheep. Visitors have arrived from 45 different countries – their country’s flag since painted on the outside wall of the homestead. – from Palestine and Turkey, to China and the Philippines. A lady from Vancouver liked it so much, she has visited Panagea three times and has purchased her own horse which she keeps on the ranch. Juan raises the horses to use on the ranch and rotates them around so they don’t get overused.

The next day, we were up and saddled by 7:30 a.m. Along with Juan and his gaucho (I would mention his name, but it is very Spanish I keep forgetting it), Fred and I had the opportunity to herd cattle for the first time. We also had the assistance of 4 awesome cattle dogs (according to Juan, they are a mixed breed) and really knew how to work the cattle. Fred had a good laugh when one of the dogs went after a steer that was lagging behind and grabbed its tail. The steer took off and the dog was airborne behind it, still holding the steer’s tail in its mouth for several strides. After about an hour or so herding the steers, we brought the cattle into a roundpen area where they were individually herded through a shoot by the gaucho while Juan stood above them and sprayed them with an insecticide to deter horn flies. The horn flies are a big problem here, and with the cattle constantly trying to get them off their backs with their heads, they are not eating, and thus, not gaining weight for market.

Like most gauchos, Juan first began riding horses when he had to go to primary school at the age of five since the school was an hour away. The children’s horses were kept in a paddock at the school so they could ride them home at the end of the school day.

When I asked Juan why some horses in Uruguay have their tails cut straight across at the hocks, he said it was probably because the owner preferred that style. However, when times have been very tough, like the 2002 recession, farmers would go into their fields and cut all the hair off the horses’ and cattle’s tails and take the hair to the market to sell. Apparently, the hair is used for the bristles of paint brushes.

Another task was to ride out into another field where the cows and their calves were located to put iodine on the navels of the calves. I was amazed at how the dogs knew to keep their distance from the calves but stayed close by in case they were needed.

We finally finished our chores and put the horses away by 7 p.m. Pierre and Katarina were up for a badminton match and after a slow start, Fred and I fought back to defeat them 2-1. A cold shower has never felt so good! We have to return someday to allow a rematch, and of course, to challenge the skills of Juan 🙂

Maybe someday you’ll see Juan riding around at a quarter horse show in Ontario if he accepts our invitation to visit us in Canada. We wished we could have stayed longer, and logged more hours in the saddle, but Africa awaits us!

Lisa n Fred