A Jolly Good Trip

Have you ever wished you could turn back the calendar to the days of no telephones, cable televisions, or internet computers? Or have you ever longed for a place so remote and peaceful, without intrusive neighbours, loud traffic, or congested streets? If you have answered “yes” to either of these questions, then I have found the perfect place for you.

Situated on 1,000 hectares of rolling, grassy fields is “Panagea” – an authentic, working ranch in the South American country of Uruguay. Uruguay is the size of North Dakota and has a population of about 3.4 million, with 44% of them residing in the capital city of Montevideo. Most of the population live in the cities and towns along the Atlantic coast in the south and the Uruguay River in the west. Therefore, some property owners living in the north, central, and eastern regions of the country own vast amounts of land. Although some of the land is used for wheat farming and “bodegas”, or vineyards, most of the land is used for cattle and sheep ranches.

After leaving Estancia La Paz, Fred and I headed northeast in search of Panagea. My only knowledge of the existence of this place, was from “googling” “authentic estancia in uruguay” or something to that effect, while using my wi-fi laptop, poolside. There was no website for Panagea, however, the place came up on a few travellers’ blogs. After reading their blogs, and seeing the attached photos, Panagea sounded like my kind of paradise and the experience we were seeking. I must admit I left out a few “details” when reading the blogs to Fred so as not to deter him from going 🙂 Fred was quite content to stay at this resort ranch with swimming pool, BBC, and fine dining cuisine.

The blogs left an email address in which to contact Juan and I immediately emailed him that we would like to come. Given the fact that there is no electricity or computer at Panagea, the blog advised Juan would respond whenever he went to town. I was relieved to get an email back that we could come, along with the following information about the ranch:

“The ranch offers a great opportunity to experience life on a working farm, such as herding sheep and cattle, vaccinating animals, assisting in lambing and calving, shearing and much more, depending on the season.
We always work on horseback and if you choose to join us, we can teach you how to ride, even if you have never done it before.
However, our primary business is ranching, so please be aware that you will be part of a normal farming life. That means that you will stay in the family house, in basic but comfortable bedrooms. The food is simple and is typical gaucho homestyle cooking, therefore, nothing fancy. if you are vegetarian please let us know in advance.
Being far from the city, there is no electricity, we have a generator that makes it available only 3 hours per evening, as well the hot showers. The rest of the night is by candle light or firelight. Take warm clothes in the winter, and be aware they can become dirty!
Since there is no internet or mobile coverage, sometimes it takes a while before we answer your mail or call. We check our mail only when going to the city.
We will appreciate your help and assistance on the ranch, but you are also welcome to relax and enjoy the many other activities as fishing, swimming, hiking, badminton, volleyball, bird watching – or one of the 1900 movies we have in our collection.
The price of this experience is $35 dollars per person, which includes:
-accommodation (we have 4 double rooms and two triple rooms)
-3 meals a day
-snacks and fruits
-mineral water/tea/coffee
-horse riding, including. all gear
-pick up from the bus terminal in Tacuarembó
We speak English, French, Portuguese, German, and, yes, Spanish.
P.S. The best months to visit are spring and autumn, meaning September, October, November, March and April. The others are either too hot, or too cold. Be aware that January is really hot, and June and July are extremely cold in Uruguay.
Also, note; if you are a British teenager; we are not a party place nor an entertainment center.
If you are a sixty something North American; we are not a restaurant nor have Sheraton like facilities,
We are a real South American ranch. For both; we can recommend excellent places in Buenos Aires and Montevideo, with much better entertaining life and better accommodation and large menu restaurants.

So, Fred and I drove 4 1/2 hours across the mostly flat plains of Uruguay with hardly another car in sight. It was another hot day, but some cloud cover offered us some relief from not having any air conditioning. Panagea is located about 45 minutes west of Tacuarembo – the heart of the “gaucho” , or cowboy, homeland (population 40,000). It is about an hour south of the Brazilian border, three hours east of Argentina, and about a 5 ½ hour drive north of Montevideo. We turned off the “main” highway, and headed down the gravel/dirt road for 9km before reaching the handpainted sign, “Panagea”. We were finally there 🙂

We were first me by a Swiss couple, Pierre and Katarina who are staying at Juan and Susanne’s for the high season to help out with the guests.They had previously been guests at the ranch on a couple of other occasions and have developed a strong friendship. There was only one other couple there – a young Finnish couple who recognized us from Hostel El Diablo Tranquilo in Punta del Diablo. They were on their way up north towards Igaussu Falls and had already spent a few days there. They had an interesting experience at the ranch under their bed -a gigantic tarantula! (needless to say, I always checked under my bed before going to sleep, and shook out my shoes before wearing them!) We were shown to our room in the house and were immediately made to feel very comfortable. The pumpkin soup, salad, and fruit salad Katarina then prepared for us was delicious! Everything was much better than I had anticipated 🙂

A little later Juan arrived from town and within 10 minutes, we were saddled up and hittin’ the fields. We rode from 5:00 p.m. until 7:30 p.m., checking the cattle in one of the fields. Juan and his gaucho help check the herds twice a day for any injuries or recent births of calves. If one of his cattle gets a cut, within a couple of days maggots will infest the wound if left untreated. If a cow is found dead in the field, it is usually one of four possiblities: struck by lightning, injested anthrax from the grass, a snake bite (there are poisonous snakes here), or death by one of seven main diseases (tetnus being one of them).

Juan Luque is the owner/operator of Panagea, who, after completing his seven-year veterinarian studies at Montevideo Univeristy, worked treating small and large animals, and now has a limited client base in order to have time to run his ranch and tourist business.

Juan raises Brangus cattle (a cross between Brahman and Angus cattle) because they are able to resist many diseases and can handle the climate. He has approximately 800 cattle (3 bulls), 300 sheep, and 80 horses (2 dun coloured stallions). Juan keeps the cows but sells the steers when they are about 200 kg. Because of the recession now, Juan has had to keep his steers since the price is too low to sell. It was because of the 2002 economic crisis that Juan decided to open up his “estancia” (Spanish word for farm) to tourism.

Throughout the year, Juan and his Swiss spouse, Susanne, accommodate a small number of travellers who are looking for the gaucho experience. Visitors staying at the ranch are all eager to test their skills and abilities herding cattle or sheep. Visitors have arrived from 45 different countries – their country’s flag since painted on the outside wall of the homestead. – from Palestine and Turkey, to China and the Philippines. A lady from Vancouver liked it so much, she has visited Panagea three times and has purchased her own horse which she keeps on the ranch. Juan raises the horses to use on the ranch and rotates them around so they don’t get overused.

The next day, we were up and saddled by 7:30 a.m. Along with Juan and his gaucho (I would mention his name, but it is very Spanish I keep forgetting it), Fred and I had the opportunity to herd cattle for the first time. We also had the assistance of 4 awesome cattle dogs (according to Juan, they are a mixed breed) and really knew how to work the cattle. Fred had a good laugh when one of the dogs went after a steer that was lagging behind and grabbed its tail. The steer took off and the dog was airborne behind it, still holding the steer’s tail in its mouth for several strides. After about an hour or so herding the steers, we brought the cattle into a roundpen area where they were individually herded through a shoot by the gaucho while Juan stood above them and sprayed them with an insecticide to deter horn flies. The horn flies are a big problem here, and with the cattle constantly trying to get them off their backs with their heads, they are not eating, and thus, not gaining weight for market.

Like most gauchos, Juan first began riding horses when he had to go to primary school at the age of five since the school was an hour away. The children’s horses were kept in a paddock at the school so they could ride them home at the end of the school day.

When I asked Juan why some horses in Uruguay have their tails cut straight across at the hocks, he said it was probably because the owner preferred that style. However, when times have been very tough, like the 2002 recession, farmers would go into their fields and cut all the hair off the horses’ and cattle’s tails and take the hair to the market to sell. Apparently, the hair is used for the bristles of paint brushes.

Another task was to ride out into another field where the cows and their calves were located to put iodine on the navels of the calves. I was amazed at how the dogs knew to keep their distance from the calves but stayed close by in case they were needed.

We finally finished our chores and put the horses away by 7 p.m. Pierre and Katarina were up for a badminton match and after a slow start, Fred and I fought back to defeat them 2-1. A cold shower has never felt so good! We have to return someday to allow a rematch, and of course, to challenge the skills of Juan 🙂

Maybe someday you’ll see Juan riding around at a quarter horse show in Ontario if he accepts our invitation to visit us in Canada. We wished we could have stayed longer, and logged more hours in the saddle, but Africa awaits us!

Lisa n Fred

Uruguay is now country #6 on our travels and we spent our first night in the historical district of Colonia Del Sacramento. We had our accommodation already booked at Hostel Viajero ($40 for a private room, with bath and satellite tv) and had no problem following the signs as we carried our backpacks from the ferry terminal. We were pleasantly surprised with the 31 degree C heat and sunny skies after visiting the patagonia area with its cooler temperatures and high winds.

Uruguay is the size of North Dakota and has a population of @ 3.5 million, and 80% are descendents of European immigrants. Approximately 90% of its citizens reside in urban areas, which are located mostly along the Rio Uruguay or the Atlantic Coast. For those of you who remember the 1993 film, Alive, about a team of young rugby players who in 1972, survived an air crash and over two months of subzero temperatures in the Andes mountains, they were from Uruguay.

Since Fred and I had read an article in the Globe and Mail Travel section a couple of years ago about the beaches in Uruguay, specifically Punta Del Diablo, we set off the next morning in seek of sun, sand, and surf.

Our first 2.5 hour bus ride took us to the capital city, Montevideo (population @ 1.3 million), where we purchased another ticket for a 4.5 hour bus ride to Punta Del Diablo (in English, “Devil’s Point). Most tourists head to the much closer, Punta Del Este, but after seeing postcards of the city on the beach with skyscrapers, luxury hotels and restaurants, etc., we opted for the fishing village with a population of 700.

On arrival, we followed several hand-crafted, wooden signs to Hostel del Diablo Tranquilo. Since it was now 6 p.m., and quite a hike along the sandy roads, we were relieved when manager “Heidi from Minnesota” had a private “suite” room with bath and fireplace (for $60). It had a spectacular view and balcony overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. This is THE hostel to stay at in Punta del Diablo and it seems like they control the market. Even though it was not high season (Dec – March), all 53 beds were occupied. Their services included wi-fi, 4 computers with internet for the guests to use free of charge, free breakfast, book exchange, games, surf boards, communal fireplace and hammocks. The young owner, Brian, from the U.S., invested half a million into the hostel, as well as a 3-story restaurant with an extensive deck right on the beach. Even the restaurant was full after 9 p.m at night. The selection of wines were limited to those bearing a label from Uruguay but we did enjoy a bottle of 60% Merlot and 40% Tannat.

Our finest meals, however, were enjoyed at Ernesto’s (El Viejo y la Mer), or, The Old Man and the Sea. A very quaint, authentic restaurant serving excellent seafood, chicken, and steak, with a very limited, but good, selection of wines. We settled on a bottle of Merlot from Argentina ($15 because it is “imported”). Even this restaurant was filled to capacity after 9 p.m. (all 6 or 7 tables).

We spent 5 days/4 nights in Diablo. Unfortunately, the hostel was booked the last night so we had to repack and find another accommodation. Luckily, we found another guest house, right on the beach, for $60 including breakfast (La Posada). Our second story view was spectacular, however, the fierce Atlantic winds would not allow us to fully enjoy the balcony. We did meet an American guy, from Alaska, who rented a cabin for just over $10/night, complete with bathroom and kitchen. There are Se Aquila signs (For Rent) on most places in Diablo, but unless you go around knocking on doors and are able to speak Spanish, they are not so easy to rent.

Our stay in Diablo was cut short by the weather. Although it was sunny each day, the wind got progressively worse, to the point that after 5 p.m., I was wearing my winter coat. Apparently, this is what the Atlantic coast is like in the springtime for the most part (similar to the weather we had in Puerto Madryn/Peninsula Valdes). We had a couple of two hour walks along the beach in each direction, as well as a terrific 4 hour horseback ride to Santa Teresa National Park (controlled by the army). Although our guide spoke very limited English, he took us through some spectacular sceneryi ncluding sand dunes, eucalyptus forests, botanical gardens and a colonial-built greenhouse with flora growing from around the world, as well as a lagoon area teeming with bird life.

On the way back from the park, we trotted along the beach and stopped to see one of the several washed up penguins. Apparently, they get caught in a bad current, we were told, and that’s what kills them. In September and October you are able to see whales along this beach, but they have moved south towards Patagonia.

Our 4 hour ride ($35 each) was definitely our highlight at Punta del Diablo. The horses are the local “Criollo” breed which he explained first came from Spain (a mixture of Andalusian and Arab). Mine was a 12 year old grey/white pinto with a fresh vampire bite on his hip from the night before, and Fred’s was an 8 year old buckskin. When I asked the guide what the horses’ names were, he said they didn’t have any (reminding me of Neil Young’s song, “A Horse With No Name”).

“On the first part of the journey
I was looking at all the life
There were plants and birds and rocks and things
There was sand and hills and rings
The first thing I met was a fly with a buzz
And the sky with no clouds
The heat was hot and the ground was dry
But the air was full of sound

I’ve been through the desert on a horse with no name
It felt good to be out of the rain
In the desert you can remember your name
‘Cause there ain’t no one for to give you no pain
La, la … “
Even though it is springtime, they had not had any rain in 10 days.

Had we been fortunate to have hot weather and calm seas (like it is supposedly December – March), we would have then visited the very remote village of “Cabo Polonia” – a half hour or so west of Punta Del Diablo. In season, there are sea lions on shore and the village has no electricity – just candles and generators between specific hours. Similar to Diablo, there is a hostel (although not of the same calibre), cabins to rent, and a sprinkling of local restaurants. However, Fred and I wanted to return to the warmth and decided to return for a night in Colonia, then rent a car and venture off in search of tourist ranches called Estancias.

We spent another day travelling by bus the 7 hours back to Colonia and finally arrived at 7 p.m. Since we had only decided the day before to head back to Colonia, we did not have any accommodation pre-booked. Arriving on a Saturday in this tourist town met with challenges. I stayed with the luggage at an outdoor cafe (enjoying a 1L bottle of Pilsen), while Fred walked all around the historical district with map in hand. About ¾ of an hour later, and asking 30 – 40 hostels, hotels, and inns, Fred was only able to come up with Hotel Royal, just down the street, at a whopping $90 (we had to pay the triple rate, even though there was just two of us, because the room had 3 beds). Given it was the last available room in the town, we took it for the night. This “3 Star” Hotel was the worst accommodation we had to date. The room smell of cigarette smoke and looked like it hadn’t been remodelled in 30 years.
Deciding to spend another night in Colonia, we immediately went out and booked a nicer accommodation at El Viajero Suites ($65 with bath and tv). A big step up from the Royal, with wi-fi. We booked an economy car from Thrifty first thing in the morning, and since we had booked it for 5 days, they gave us a 6th free (worked out to be $37/day). It was a brand new compact car with only 200 km on it. We drove to the beach area (on the River de la Plata) and we were surprised how far out you could walk and still only be knee deep in the brown coloured (but apparently clean) water. We enjoyed a Heinekein at a riverside bar and headed back at sunset to go for dinner.

In Fred’s and my opinion, Colonia Del Sacramento is the nicest city/small city (@ 21, 714) we have been in so far (in South America) – and rightfully so, a protected by UNESCO . Moreso than Buenos Aires, Cusco, Mendoza, and Copacabana (Bolivia). We love its wide, mature tree-lined, cobblestone streets, parks and gardens, and slow pace of life. There are very few vehicles driving around the historical district but do include tourists driving around in rented golf carts, dune buggies, and motor scooters. They obviously do not have helmet laws, nor age limit requirements on motor scooters (we saw a boy about 12 driving down the road on a motor scooter). Plus, it is common to rent bicycles since the area is relatively flat and the roads are very good, with a long, wide boardwalk along the river. It feels a lot more European (well, it was founded originally by the Spanish and Portuguese) and you feel safe walking along the streets at night. There are lots and lots of quality restaurants, reasonably priced (@ $30-40 with a bottle of wine), with outdoor seating by candlelight, at night.

*** news report from BBC *** a young person in Latin American is 30 more times likely to be murdered than in Europe. (Fred is watching BBC while I am writing this blog). According to our Rough Guide, along with our own experiences, Uruguayans are among Latin America’s friendliest peoples.

Monday morning we headed off early (well, 8:45) to go riding ($20 each for 2 hours). We had a very good ride on, once again, horses with no names (just named by their colour). Our guide didn’t speak any English, so we just took in all the sights. Half of our ride was spent riding through the wealthy residential area (always an advantage being on horseback to look over their flowering shrub fences and into their gardens) and the other half was spent riding on the beach alongside the river. It was really neat riding beside the racetrack and watching the jockeys training their horses (quality looking quarter horses! a.k.a. “quarta de milla”).

After our ride, it was back to the room to shower, pack up, and move on. Destination(s) unknown. Stay tuned!

Lisa n Fred