Coca in Cuzco
Ola! After about 38 hours on local buses from Quito to Lima (which cost us $27 each), Fred and I decided to fly into Cuzco direct from Lima ($143 including taxes, each). An hour flight over the Andes on a bright, sunny morning, was much more appealing than another 8 – 10 hour bus ride at that point. After a hassle-free flight, we took a taxi and checked out a few hostals before settling on Rikchariy (translates to Wake Up) Hostal on Tambo de Montero street. Great views over the city, cable TV, hot showers, very clean sheets and room, with breakfast, and Wi-Fi (when the owner has his computer on), all for $40 night. Rates for double rooms in Cuzco go for real cheap ($20) up to over $200, so $40/night is a little more than we are used to paying ($30), but it’s in a safe and quiet neighbourhood.
Upon arrival, the first thing you’re given in Cuzco (population @ 330,000) is Coca Tea. Apparently, it helps with high altitude sickness. Coming from Quito, we didn’t think we would find it much of an adjustment, but we noticed the change in altitude right away. After a short walk uphill (Cuzco is in the mountains so everywhere is either up or down hill!) I was having chest pains and Fred was feeling very weak and dizzy, similar to the feeling when you haven’t eaten for awhile. So, we popped in the nearest drug store and got some HAS (High Altitude Sickness) drug similar to Diamox (which I tried to get the day before we left at the pharmacy but I needed a prescription from my doctor for it so I just didn’t bother). After taking one morning and night, the next day we seemed to have adjusted to the 3,400 m. altitude. No need for the coca chocolate, coca leaves, coca toffee, coca candy, and not to mention the coca in its narcotic form. They say the Incas have always used coca for the altitude as it acts as a stimulant to increase your oxygen intake.
We spent the first couple of days then, getting quotes from a multitude of travel agencies for a Machu Picchu trek. I was told there were lots to choose from, but I am talking about hundreds! We were quoted anything from $190 to $595 for a 5 day/4 night trek on the Salkantay Trail (we would have loved to have gone on the original Machu Picchu trail but they get sold out anywhere from 30 days to a year in advance – depending on who you talk to). So, after consulting with the manager of Jack’s Cafe, an american lady, she said the SAS agency came highly recommended so we decided to go with them ($390 including sleeping bags/mattress rolls, etc). We decided to splurge and hire an extra guide to carry 9kg for us ($45 for the 5 days – how would you like to hike over mountains for 5 days for that income?!) so that leaves us just carrying our personal items in our carry-on backpack. Speaking of which, Fred has just returned from purchasing a new one (a Fila for $20 to replace his $19 Roots one that was stolen). I brought a winter toque and gloves with me, but Fred still has to buy his. We have purchased rain ponchos, long underwear, scarves, thermal socks, and Fred – a knockoff “North Face” vest. The vest was only $23 dollars and looks like an original (I am sure the insulation inside is not of the same quality) – I asked the lady at the market where it was made and she said her mother made it! Made me wish I could order a 100 for our OQHA or OQHBF awards and have them shipped back! (that price even includes the North Face logo monogramming!).
Sounds like we may be sleeping in all our clothes as this area of Peru is now approaching the rainy season (October). Although the last four days here have been mostly sunny, 18 degrees, today is only 9 degrees and cloudy, going down to 4 degrees at night…..wait until we get into the mountains at 14,000 feet! The guide figures it will probably be about 0 degrees at night (or maybe less!). Plus, sleeping in tents for 3 nights (the 4th night is spent in the SAS hostal in Aguas Calientes). I am sure Machu Picchu will be worth it.
On our third day here in Cuzco, we went on a Sacred Valley tour from 8:30 – 6:30 p.m. (only $20 each) to the Inca communities at Pisaq, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero. We saw some amazing ruins (the preferred term here is “ancient settlements”) and since they were all mostly on top of mountains requiring an hour trek, the tour was a great warm-up for the MP trek to come. I purchased a beautiful, 950 silver sun/moon necklace pendant for $25 (bartered to 65 Soles from her beginning price of 90 Soles) and a woven tapestry of colourful cats for @$10 (30 Soles from her beginning price of 50 Soles). I always buy a small souvenier cat for my cat collection, but since my cabinet is almost full, I opted for this tapestry from Peru. I thought it would look great on our kitchen floor, but of course, now I don’t want to use it!
On Day 4 in Cuzco (yesterday), we went for a terrific, four-hour horseback ride through the ancient settlements of Tambomachay, Saqsaywaman, and Pukapukara. We rode “Indigenous” horses – horses for the mountainsm, our guide said. My 9 year old bay was named “Debutante” and Fred’s gray was the translation for “Sunflower”. Both were very well mannered and careful with their feet (very bumpy at the trot though!). The guide said his boss bought a beautiful, big horse from the coast near Lima and brought it to Cuzco. It only lasted a week and then it died – its lungs burst from the change in altitude. Wow. We rode through Euclyliptus (spelling?) forests, up rocky mountains, and through desert-like terrain. We had terrific views over the city of Cuzco down in the valley. We had an excellent guide who was very informative on the area – it is hard to believe that they are still excavating these sites and discovering inca gold, silver, human skulls, etc. He showed us this huge amphitheatre that was only recently uncovered in 1995! According to the guide, the city of Cuzco itself is @ 850 years old – much older than Quito, Lima, Buenos Aires and other famous cities in South America. I am sure they have much more to discover!
Today (Saturday), is our last day before our big trek so we’re doing last minute preparations and relaxing. I have just finished sending WalMart about 100 photos of the past 4 days in Cuzco. I send them via their website www.walmartphotocentre.ca and in an hour, they are ready to be picked up! Mom has been picking them up for me in Kitchener when she gets a notice via email from WalMart that there are photos waiting to be picked up. What a great service! Mom has sitting at home for us, already processed, our Galapagos, Kapawi Lodge, etc photos, then I can clear them off my memory card and start all over!
For those awaiting photos on the blog, I have tried countless times to upload some without success, and have finally emailed the site adminstrator for help. Soon come!
For fellow travellers, it took me a long time to find a wi-fi service in Cuzco. I highly recommend the “Cappuccino Cafe” located at Portal Comercio 141, Plaza de Armas. It is a great coffee spot, upstairs, overlooking the main square. For only 1 sole per hour, high speed access, you can’t beat it. Oh yes, Fred wants me to mention how great the coffee has been in Peru. No Nescafe instant like we mostly found in Ecuador.
Look for our next blog, pending no frost-bitten fingers, after our ascent to Machu Picchu!
Lisa n Fred
Tags: Cuzco, Machu Picchu, Peru, Travel, wi-fi cuzco
frednlisa
Following your trip.Sounds exciting and a little dangerous.Can’t waite till you get back to see pictures and hear more stories.Stay safe and have fun.