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Coca in Cuzco

Saturday, October 4th, 2008

Ola! After about 38 hours on local buses from Quito to Lima (which cost us $27 each), Fred and I decided to fly into Cuzco direct from Lima ($143 including taxes, each). An hour flight over the Andes on a bright, sunny morning, was much more appealing than another 8 – 10 hour bus ride at that point. After a hassle-free flight, we took a taxi and checked out a few hostals before settling on Rikchariy (translates to Wake Up) Hostal on Tambo de Montero street. Great views over the city, cable TV, hot showers, very clean sheets and room, with breakfast, and Wi-Fi (when the owner has his computer on), all for $40 night. Rates for double rooms in Cuzco go for real cheap ($20) up to over $200, so $40/night is a little more than we are used to paying ($30), but it’s in a safe and quiet neighbourhood.

Upon arrival, the first thing you’re given in Cuzco (population @ 330,000) is Coca Tea. Apparently, it helps with high altitude sickness. Coming from Quito, we didn’t think we would find it much of an adjustment, but we noticed the change in altitude right away. After a short walk uphill (Cuzco is in the mountains so everywhere is either up or down hill!) I was having chest pains and Fred was feeling very weak and dizzy, similar to the feeling when you haven’t eaten for awhile. So, we popped in the nearest drug store and got some HAS (High Altitude Sickness) drug similar to Diamox (which I tried to get the day before we left at the pharmacy but I needed a prescription from my doctor for it so I just didn’t bother). After taking one morning and night, the next day we seemed to have adjusted to the 3,400 m. altitude. No need for the coca chocolate, coca leaves, coca toffee, coca candy, and not to mention the coca in its narcotic form. They say the Incas have always used coca for the altitude as it acts as a stimulant to increase your oxygen intake.

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