BootsnAll Travel Network
Add this blog to: MyYahoo, Google, Bloglines, RSS


Archive for the 'Cairo to Capetown' Category

« Previous Page — « Previous Entries
Next Entries » — Next Page »
« Home

Ngorongoro’s wild nightlife

Thursday, August 19th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
It was late. The damp cold outside had kept me in the lodge longer than intended. The nice receptionist who had mentioned a cheap room that morning wasn’t there and while his colleague invited me for a cup of tea I did not quite trust him. I would have paid the going rate but I could not risk him asking for the money declaration form.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on Ngorongoro’s wild nightlife

The greatest Zoo on Earth

Wednesday, August 18th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
We drove down into what is in effect the biggest zoo on Earth. From the top of the crater there was no sign of the extraordinary wildlife in the pan below. We drove down steep slopes, past primordial tree-like Euphorbias, into the valley of the crater itself and into something out of Eden.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on The greatest Zoo on Earth

Sneaking a Safari

Tuesday, August 17th, 2004

Tanzania 1984
Arusha — from one large and dirty town I had come to another. I did not intend to stay long.

When we asked for a room at the YMCA I noticed that Tanzania was expensive, even when paying with black-market cash. Our accommodation cost 20 US$ each, according to the official rate. While the street-rate was five times that, tours and safaris had to be paid with money accompanied by official exchange receipts. We had to think of something.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on Sneaking a Safari

Cross-country Rally

Monday, August 16th, 2004

Kenya 1984
After a week in Nairobi it was time to leave — before I forgot what continent I was supposed to be in.

I was drawn to the sea. At first I had wanted to avoid the tourist resort of Mombassa, but a friedly Arab had offered me a lift.He even offered to pay for my room at the posh ‘Hotel Iqbal’, which I declined. But I accepted the lift. My mind was made up completely when he said I was certain to see dolphins off Mombassa. So that morning I checked out of the New Kenya Lodge and waited over a pipe and a cup of tea while the Arab took care of some business.

I never did get to Mombassa.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on Cross-country Rally

Chewing the cud

Sunday, August 15th, 2004

Kenya 1984
The border crossing into Kenya was entirely without incident. That is worth a remark.

The train from Kampala crossed the equator early in the morning. Judging from the view, I found that hard to believe. We were rattling past green fields of corn and lush meadows with piebald cows grazing in them. I was not surprised when we crossed a thick pine forest. At the next station, men with wooden baskets full of juicy pairs walked through the train. It was as cold as back in Germany. Somehow I had imagined my first equator crossing to be different.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on Chewing the cud

First Class

Saturday, August 14th, 2004

Uganda, 1984
There was a station in Kasese. The town was well developed with paved roads, electricity and a daily train to Kampala scheduled for four in the afternoon.

I had 610 Ugandan shillings and hoped to get a ticket but the cheapest fare was 800 Sh. From my secret belt-pouch I took an English pound note which I had left from a previous summer’s trip to the UK and which now turned out to be a blessing. It was worth 200 Sh. It was enough for a ticket, if not to buy food. My stomach was grumbling.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on First Class

The King of Gruff

Thursday, August 12th, 2004

Uganda, 1984
I found a cheap room in a Somali-run hostel and met fellow travellers: two black Amerikans who I had met briefly in Bangui and a Sudanese man who immediately offered me tea. But although I spoke to other travellers, I did not find any companions.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on The King of Gruff

100 km trek (3) – The Ruwenzori mountains

Wednesday, August 11th, 2004

Zaïre 1984
I awoke at dawn to the rustling of two rats running across the beams above my head. One nearly fell but caught itself — just.

I was up to an early start to cover as much distance as possible as it was clear that there would be no transport. No vehicle had come through the village in a week. I would have to walk all the way to Beni.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on 100 km trek (3) – The Ruwenzori mountains

100 km trek (2) – the enchanted stream

Tuesday, August 10th, 2004

Zaïre, 1984

I spent the night on the floor of the hut, rolled into my tent. There was just about room. When I woke up the first rays of the sun had just begun to filter through the roof. Through a hole in the wall I looked out to the other leaf huts and the forest beyond. A few ants were sluggishly crawling up one of the sticks that formed the wall, still affected by the morning chill.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on 100 km trek (2) – the enchanted stream

The 100 km trek (1) – the gold-digger camp

Monday, August 9th, 2004

Zaïre, 1984
The quickest and easiest to the Ugandan border was via Beni where I hoped to meet Sophie and Roland again or else find another lift in direction Kenya. I left the house of the good doctors in Mambasa at ten, bought two bananas and one avocado and sat down by the roadside, waiting for a lift. A passer-by stopped and told me a jeep would leave for Beni from the catholic mission. I asked the way.
“2 km, straight on!”

— That was the start of my five-day trek to Beni.
[read on]

Posted in Cairo to Capetown | Comments Off on The 100 km trek (1) – the gold-digger camp

« Previous Page — « Previous Entries
Next Entries » — Next Page »