If Your Compass Could Talk…

The time has come. New Years has passed in Buenos Aires and expatriates from around the world are starting to file into the city for some good times and cheap fun. BA is a very expat friendly city and around this time of year, the city starts to become a haven for English speakers and eager to learn Spanish expatriates. If you’re one of them check out this list of must have resources. You’ll be helpless without them!

So, it has been rumored that Argentina would be charging reciprocity fees for every entering American coming into the country. The fees, of which would be $130 US would be valid for several years but as you may already know, Argentina is well known as a super cheap travel locale. Anyway, I was curious upon entering the country from some time spent in the states if the reciprocity fee would be already enacted. As it was supposed to be on Jan 1st 2009. The verdict is in: I DID NOT PAY A DIME.

Now, this isn’t to say the reciprocity fee will NEVER be put into use. Argentina is some what infamous when it comes to implementing plans and then taking a long time before they are put into use. But it does go to say that if you’re entering the country any time soon, you will probably avoid this travel pitfall. Enjoy it now, who knows how long it will last!

Because its not always coming up roses now isn’t it? I recently was traveling through Panama (a must see. truly incredible!) and found myself reading Paulo Coehlo. You know him, the guy who wrote The Alchemist. Well anyway, I’m reading his book called The Devil and Miss Prym which, without getting into the long and short of it has to do with good and evil. Coehlo, per usual, has it chalk full of some spiritual insightfulness and in the interview at the end of the book he is commenting with the interviewer how he thinks there is always a little bit of hell in the midst of even the most heavenly places.

I lived this straight up during my stay in Bocas del Toro. Now while Coehlo means its all about perception or how you choose to see your ‘adventure’ ( translation ‘pain in the ass’) it got me to thinking that sometimes travel sends you to your wits end and back again. Bocas is beautiful, the islands tranquil, the people incredible. But noisy neighbors, lost luggage, too long meals, too long of nights and so forth sent me almost over the edge. I’ll look back and think about what I learned and will surely see Bocas as nothing but a fun blip along the way but I’m saying to all you travelers…

…its okay to have a bad run or two. It makes it all worth while and its the part that makes the good days, truly good. It can’t all be perfect – even in the perfect place.

Teaching English is a classic expatriate way to make money while living abroad. There are countless companies and ways in which you can make a living teaching your stronger language while living in another country. But how good of a job is it really? A lot of depends on the country you live in. For example, earning money living in Asia teaching English has afforded hundreds of English speakers a hefty savings and money to spare, while in South America the story is more of that of overworked and underpaid.

I came accross this article when looking for hostels about the realities of teaching English while living abroad. Check it out and make your own call. But its nice to hear an opinion from someone who has been there.

The Darien gap is a spread of land that connects Panama to Columbia. It is one of the few places travelers in South America, don´t dare enter. In fact, for a laugh check out Lonely Planet´s current info on Darien. There is an official exclamation followed by some serious text about the dangers of traveling through the gap.

I thought it interesting to note because so often when traveling we (travelers that is) get the sense that there is truly no place we can´t venture, when in reality we live in complicated world with real issues. Sometimes travelers take for granted the freedom in which they are welcomed especially while traveling in South America, yet, the Darien gap is  place largely run by drug trafficking and some heated political issues. To make a long story short – its not safe and not safely run by either panama nor columbia´s government. Its a ´go at your own risk situation´.

Check out this great articleabout a ten day kidnapping by a national geographic traveler in Darien. A great read.

Looking for the next hot spot? Well, don´t look too far. Bocas del Toro, Panama has the travelers going NUTS. This remote location near the Costa Rican Border is the caribbean of your dreams with cheap drinks, remote beaches, cool hang out bars and friendly people.

This town, while practically crawling with travelers, is a great vacation spot and anyone coming from the coasts of costa rica stops here for some sites to be seen. You can access the island by air from Panama City and from various other locations on the eastern coast of Panama. Hard to go wrong and two thumbs up from this traveler.

Check out Mondo Taitu for drinks, but avoid it as a hostel – you´ll never get any sleep!

As you may know, reciprocity fees are supposed to be enacted beginning Jan 1st, 2009 for all US citizens and citizens of select other countries coming into Argentina. At a cost of US $ 130, this has many people sighing heavily over the idea of paying for the previously free visa. However, no travel websites (the United States ministry of travel site www.travel.state.gov) or any sites (aside from travel forums) have anything written formally on the matter. As a traveler heading into Argentina for the millionth time (but this time under the premise I might be paying ) I will report back with the full deal when I enter again  on January 4th. Paid or not paid.

A thought on the undeniable lack of water in an extraordinarly hot city.

 Buenos Aires is known for lots of things: tango, excellent steaks and even gorgeous women. It is also known for the ridiculous heat that commonly takes place in the January and Februray months. Well this month, the heat has hit early and hit hard. The city went on record for having the warmest November on record in years. Needless to say, portenos and expatriates are sweating it out. However, the city should NOT be known for having a good place to cool off in the summer. For being such a big, HOT city, Buenos Aires has practically no good places to cool off. The river is off limits, public pools are a thing of urban legend and to get to any accessible beaches it requires a trip to a different country or, hours in a car. There seems to be little consolation from the heat. Except for roof top pools where maximum capacity is 5-6 people. The fact remains people will just continue to sweat it out in the Buenos Aires summer months.  

Celebrating the Holidays in South America is probably a bit different than what most North Americans and Europeans are used to. In fact a festivly decorated mate jar might be the extent of the Christmas spirit you seen anywhere in Argentina. While its a strange feeling its a great time to experience how cultures do the Holidays differently.

While Argentina is mostly Roman Catholic you’ll see Christmas as the overwhelming holiday, although there is a large Jewish population as well and Hanukah is widely celebrated. For Christmas, Argentines mostly celebrate on Christmas eve with dinner with family until about midnight a wide display of fireworks (and I do mean WIDE – the city will be exploding) and then parties till the sun comes up (what else is new). On Christmas day its mostly sleeping, eating and time with family. And who could think of a better way to celebrate than that.

Feliz Navidad all!

There is a lot of muss and fuss in guide books about taxis in Argentina. Where and when to be cautious when hailing the famous bumblebee colored cabs. But from this experienced traveler I have to say, its mostly just hype. Most cab drivers are fairly honest and won’t take you for too long of a ride. It goes without saying you may get ‘stuck’ behind a bus for several blocks increasing the fair and very obnoxious non-Spanish speaking Americans are sure to get the long way around – yet, most people have no problem.

Hailing a cab on the street you’re sure to get a legitimate taxi, its coming home from the airport when you need to be careful. Just be sure and agree to a price ahead of time before leaving Ezeiza and heading into Buenos Aires. This can get you really bad otherwise. In other cases, just have a general idea of where you’re headed and you’ll be fine. Keep an eye on the meter and enjoy the scenery. Like I said, the guide book hype is mostly just that – hype.