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The City of Lights Woos Me — with fromage

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

Another cold day in Paris, but today was full of interesting things, including a GIANT PLATE of CHEESE for dinner!

The day began, of course, with a sprained ankle, but after a few anti-inflammatories and the magic of frozen perogies, I set out again and headed for the Louvre. I spent five or so hours there, getting lost and stumbling upon such things as the Venus de Milo and the Mona Lisa, etc. I found the Appartements de Napoleon interesting (he never actually lived there, though). I especially liked the French sculptures, and the horses in particular.

I have a newfound appreciation for anyone who can remember the names of artists, art works, places, street names… I can’t remember any of those. I hope it doesn’t bother you too much.

I also enjoyed the Italian sculptures, and saw a few of Michaelangelo’s works. It’s rather humbling to think he was just 28 when he was commissioned to paint the Sistine Chapel. Really makes me wonder what the heck I”m doing with my life.

From the Louvre, I moved on to Notre Dame de Paris. This church now joins my very short list of places on earth which I’ve felt to be divine. The others are St. Elias in Brampton (at Vespers and Easter morning), the Pecherska Lavra in Kiev, Ukraine, and the grand temple (Wat) at Angkor, in Cambodia. At Notre Dame, the first thing that sprang to mind as I entered the main part of the church was “Oh my God!”, and then the second thing was guilt for using the Lord’s name in vain, tisk tisk.

I then wandered about the Latin Quarter in search of a cheese plate recommended by my sister. I eventually just happened upon the street and the cheese shop itself. It’s called La Fromagerie 31, and it is at 31 Rue de La Seine. I took a photo so I’d remember the name.

I had a plate of seven cheeses, and was only able to eat half of it. I missed my typical dinner companion who would usually eat the other half. The cheeses were very tasty. Laura, if you’re reading this, I want you to know that I was fully aware that FitDay would score that dinner way off the charts!

I made my way home on the subway and caught my first glimpse of the city of lights in its best form…at night! The Eiffel Tower (which I have yet to climb) was all lit up and sparkling beautifully, which apparently it does for five minutes on the hour in the evenings.

It has been very cold here, but I look forward to London on Friday, where I expect it will be cold still, but where friends and pints and revellry await and will be sure to warm me!

I’ve been trying to attach photos but can’t seem to get the hang of it. Maybe eventually…

Bluecheese Breakfast

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009

I’ve passed a most marvellous day in Paris, speaking exclusively French, and I must chalk it up to the fact that I began my day with blue cheese and a croissant. Actually, I began the day by sleeping in, simply because I can. THEN I ate the cheese.

Despite the cold weather, I set out for a full day of walking about. My first stop was the Petit Palais’ free permanent collection. It was bite sized, and just right for my attention span. The building itself is impressive, with it’s huge and ornate doors, beautiful gardens and frescoes. Here, though, I learned once again of my low tolerance for guide books and other general information. Somehow, reading all about the artist, or the history of the place, doesn’t really add to my experience when I’m taking in beauty. Even on the streets, it seems every corner, obelisk, bridge and park has some historical significance. I’d have my nose in the book the whole time trying to keep up if I needed to read about it all!

One thing, the first, really, to move me was a sculpture in the Petit Palais called “Ugolin.” The knuckles and toes on this angry fellow had so much tension that it actually made me feel like I ought to recoil.

I moved on to Montmartre and found my favourite bit of Paris, so far. The place has a real character of its own, not to mention a very impressive church (Sacre-Coeur). I don’t know why, but churches here have a real spirit, like they are living beings themselves, that I find lacking at home. The view from the church out onto the city is amazing, and I managed to enjoy it, despite the large group of tourists singing that “ay ay ay ay….” Mexican song right outside the doors.

In the evening, I enjoyed an “Africain” hot chocolate, i.e. a melted pure chocolate “drink”, and very thick. I sat by the octagonal fountain at the Jardin Tullieres, and was enjoying the serentity of the sun set when a half Marseillaise, half Algerian fellow made himself comfortable beside me. We chatted for a full half hour, at least, all in French I’m proud to say. He found my Canadian accent amusing. It was a nice encounter with a pseudo-local. The first of many, I hope. I heeded the advice of a friend to “trust no one” (wink) and left before he could issue a dinner invitation and just after he felt my bicep when I told him I play soccer (???).

I had a few interesting interactions with phone store clerks, again all in my Quebecois French. They seeemed amused but still friendly with me.

I’m off to bed feeling like I’ve spent a very good day indeed in Paris. Tomorrow: the Louvre and the Musee D’Orsay, if all goes well!