The Inca trail: Day 1
Ollantaytambo is the end of the proper road, and from here it’s dirt track that criss crosses the rail line to Machu Picchu for around an hour or so. On arriving at Km82, the minibus was swamped with people selling essentials for the Inca trail: hats, walking poles, water etc. Our porters appeared and the kit from the minibus was packed up and hauled onto their backs.
It was strange to see these guys with huge makeshift bundles on their backs and only basic sandals, but Fredy assured us that this is what they’re used to and what their feet are used to.
The heat on Day 1 was amazing. Even Fredy said that it was unusually hot. As we walked to the head of the trail, other minibuses and tour groups began to arrive. We signed our names and crossed the swaying bridge over the river. This is it!
The walk on Day 1 began by following the River Urumbamba, by this time a torrent crashing over rocks and squeezed tightly into the valley floor before breaking off up the coarse of a smaller but equally violent river coming down from the snow-capped mountains. It was beautiful, or “stunning” as Eug continually muttered (he even had Fredy saying it by the end of the trail!). Fredy answered all our questions along the way and was very good at rest breaks which I was grateful for!
Soon we were climbing upwards, and a quick glance behind (fortunately!) revealed a herd of frantic goats and their handler heading towards us at a great rate of knots. Not sure who was more scared on this narrow path, the goats or the hikers, but they passed safely and we spied our first real challenge, a short steep climb up to a grassy plateau where Fredy indicated a rest break – and then pointed downwards.
Here, from this lofty vantage point, we could see the River Urumbamba far below (our final sighting of it until we reach Machu Picchu in three days’ time), and fabulous ruins sited at a strategic junction between the main valley and the one we were destined to climb. Fredy told us all about the ruins, how they controlled access along the main valley (which was a commercial trade route), and the trail branching off, which was yet another Inca trail heading towards further settlements and eventualy joining THE Inca trail. We could see terracing for flowers and some agriculture (the Inca’s, it appears, liked to keep tidy gardens), fountains, accommodation buildings and a finely built religious centre. We also learned of how the Quechuans destroyed many of the Inca trails to prevent the Spanish from discovering the real treasure-laden citadels high in the sky that we are to visit. But, cunningly, they left the main commercial route along the River Urumbamba intact, so that the Spanish followed this, blindly past Machu Picchu and down into the jungle, where the insects and other unpleasant creatures had a feast!
We stopped for lunch by the river, where our porters and cook appeared with dining tent erected and table set. Not sure when we became royalty, it certainly felt like it! And then the feast began: “garlic bread”, soup, trout with avocado salad and rice, tomatoes cut in the shape of exotic flowers, peeled cucumber slices and the rest! How on Earth were we going to move after that lot? It was delicious – probably the best meal we´d had so far in South America. Fredy reassured us that we had loads of time so we settled our tummies (after desert, tea and coffee, served in a cup and saucer!) for about 20 minutes before setting off again.
That lunch was a real energy boost and we felt much better during the walk in the afternoon and realised we´d been flagging a bit before lunch! The heat continued though and even Fredy was applying our suncream to his arms! The walk was even more pretty in the afternoon and it felt as though we had the trail to ourselves. It was only the odd porter that came running past with his heavily-laden body and sinewy legs bearing yet another load ahead of these amazed hikers.
We came across a strange thing that afternoon. About 5 or 6 guys carrying a body covered in a blanket down the trail. Fredy gleaned that the guy had fallen down the mountainside far above us earlier in the morning and injured himself so his bearers were taking him for help – a mere ten miles away or so. But why was his face covered – in this heat and altitude? We all decided that the guy was dead. Spooky. Fredy, Eug and I had an orange dextrose energy tablet (kindly bought for us by Mil and Pil) to get over it – they are disgusting. The guys laughed at me and told me that medicine´s not supposed to taste good.
The final part of our first day´s trek was a bit uphill but OK once we got the pace going – slow and steady made it much easier. It was here where our “imaginary Tys” appeared. Eug and I kept quoting “Rich Tys” to each other which kept making us laugh and even more out of breath. “Well done, you´re making good progress”. “How´re ya doin?”. “Good walking”. “Superb!”. Our imaginary “Tys” stayed with us for the rest of the Inca trail!
We had a small campsite almost to ourselves that night, on a small farm and terrace. Nestled in the mountains, it was absolutely gorgeous! And of course, our massive tent was already pitched, the dining tent was up and our bag was ready and waiting for us. Julio made fresh popcorn and we had a beer. What a reward!
We sorted our bed out for the tent. SAS provided very comfortable roll mats and we had our inflatable mats to go on top so it really was luxury!
More luxury in the form of our evening meal: soup, meat, salad, vegetables, rice, apple and custard, coffee…. All superbly presented and very tasty.
The stars were out in force that night and Fredy, Eug and I sat outside the tent and admired the sky. I don´t think we´ve ever seen so many stars. With stiff necks, we retired to our tent (complete with two kittens lurking near the entrance, their eyes shining like the stars above), ready for an early start in the morning and the constant uphill of Dead Woman’s Pass.
Tags: Peruvian tales
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