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Head of the class

Thursday, August 14th, 2008

 Or maybe joke of the class? It’s hard to tell when you don’t speak Thai!

 My teaching experience hasn’t received much press time on this blog, but considering that I spend 40 hours each week immersed in it, I think that the time has come to change that. Teaching, as loyal readers will remember, was pretty nervewracking for me at the beginning. This is understandable when you take into account that I was thrown into a classroom after a three week training course (hardly sufficient!) and that, for those who know me, I don’t have the most commanding presence out there. I’ve never enjoyed being in charge (vocally that is – I love running behind-the-scenes shows), and I’m certainly not comfortable in a position of authority. I always hated babysitting and teaching teenagers in Thailand (everywhere?) is exactly that – babysitting.

The nerves settled after a few weeks, though it honestly took quite a bit longer to hit the point where I genuinely didn’t mind getting in front of a class and ‘teaching.’ I still can’t say that I enjoy it per se, but it’s become much easier to swallow and every day has its charms. The time is flying and whereas at one point I was doubting my ability to finish my contract, I am now aware that it’ll be over before I know it.

The problems with Thailand’s educational system are well-known, widely published and nowhere near being solved. I won’t go into a lot of general facts and theory, as these are easy to find (thanks, google!) if you’re interested, but I will discuss them in terms of my own short experience.

The number one, all-encompassing problem is the lack of critical thinking and creativity. Thai schools use rote teaching methods in which the Thai teacher sits at the front of the class, talks on a microphone and the students write down what she says. Their sole task is to memorize these things and then spit them back out on a test – there is no such thing as participation or critical thinking or questioning, it is what it is. This runs more deeply into Thai culture as a whole, but I won’t get into that right now. Basically, there is a formula and the point of school is to learn it – not too unlike what is happening in American schools with such a huge focus on standardized testing. School is less and less about thinking and more about memorizing that magic formula to pass the test that will determine the futures and salaries and budgets of those in charge. The end goal is the piece of paper, not an expanded mind. Considering that Thai schools are profit-hungry businesses, it makes sense.

Anyways, this has translated into a relatively frustrating experience. It is nearly impossible to communicate to these kids that you want them to be creative, be funny, think of something new! It’s not that they’re incapable, but that school as they know it is a place for right and wrong, black and white. Give them an open-ended question – where do you see yourself in 10 years? They will just stare at you, perplexed, waiting for a clue as to what “the” answer is. Of course there are exceptions and occasionally you have a student who GETS it (and makes my day!), but overall, straying from the textbook is futile.

With that said, many of my students can write sentences quite well, have impressive spelling skills and all of them have  flawless handwriting. What they can’t do is put a sentence together in spoken form! They can often manage to get the point across, but I honestly don’t think that I’ve ever heard one complete, grammically correct sentence come out of any of their mouths! It’s a shame, but they are so reluctant to speak English (they’ve spent their whole lives memorizing how to write it) that there’s no way they can get better. It’s surprising when you realize that all of these kids have been studying English for the past 5-12 years.

Moving on. The system flaws are not helped out by the fact that most of these kids have no reason to WANT to learn English. A handful of them do, of course, and they understand that it could open up some doors for them. Most of them, however, don’t see the point. Thailand is not a fully developed country and only a small percentage of the population will ever cross the border; travel is not something that is finacially possible or even a consideration for most Thais. This is an extremely nationalistic place (more on that in another post) – many of my students just don’t understand why a second language matters or how it could possibly affect them.

Not wanting to learn English, when coupled with no-fail policies (we wouldn’t want anyone to stand out!) naturally contributes to all sorts of other issues in the classroom. Tardiness, as I’ve mentioned before, is the norm. This is partially due to “Thai time” (meaning any time different than what was specified) and probably isn’t helped by the fact that I don’t discourage it – I love getting out of some teaching time!

The other major issues are the talking, the primping and the cell phoning. These things, again, aren’t helped by my severe lack of disciplinarian skills, but they seem to be the norm for all foreign teachers. These kids can talk at unimaginably loud levels, they never get tired (this is the birthplace of Redbull!), the girls (and many boys) must consult their mirrors every 3 or 4 minutes and the cell phones are pretty much an extension of their bodies. A typical class will have the 7 studious kids up front, trying to take notes, the group of too-cool guys slouching in the back row, no textbooks in sight, the 10 ‘princesses’ scattered throughout, constantly smoothing their hair and applying lipgloss and about ten cellphones being ‘secretly’  utilized at any given moment, by any given kid.

The difference between here and what I remember from my school days is the lack of defiance. The second that you shoot them a look, ask where the textbook is or why the cellphone is out, they will immediately look embarrassed, wai you (bow) and fix whatever it is they were doing wrong. This doesn’t mean that they won’t resume within five minutes, but Thais don’t do confrontation and it’s evident in the classroom. When class is over, they’ll all thank you, say ‘see you next time,’ and will wave enthusiastically at you outside of class, yelling the all-too-common “Tee-cha!”

Strangely, many of my students are my age and a few are older. I have one girl who is 29, in an intro class with a bunch of 16 year olds. Age is an ambiguous thing here – no one ever looks their age (especially not while wearing a school uniform!) and the maturity rate is so different from the west. A 20 year old Thai is like a 15 year old westerner in terms of maturity – I have a group of 23 year old girls and I cannot process it in my head. They giggle and idolize pop stars and gossip like high school freshman. Most will live at home until they are married, if not longer, a result of limited finances and very tight-knit family units.

Cheating is another major facet of Thai education. They ALL cheat, shamelessly. Tests aside, it’s not necessarily seen as a negative. The attitude is more that of, “You asked for the correct answer, so here it is!” Give them an assignment out of the book? The two smartest kids will finish, show me, then everyone else will promptly crowd around and then excitedly show me the exact same answers. Write about yourself? Strange, all 24 kids have the exact same life! And they wonder why no one ever learns

They know better than to cheat on a test, but oh, they will try! I’ve got to admit, they’ve got some clever tactics, but luckily I’ve done my research. There’s the ridiculous method of just blatantly talking amongst each other, then there’s the “holding my paper up to ponder my answers but really I’m showing the girl behind me” method, the trick where the kids who’ve finished stand outside the door and signal answers through the window and many others. Every student, even the smartest, straight-A kid, will have wandering eyes during a test. It’s something genetic, I believe…even if there’s no chance of seeing anything due to distance or if it’s the worst student in the class, they will look. Test day is almost as stressful for me as for them!

This seems to be a post full of complaints and criticisms, but that really isn’t my intention. There are a lot of enjoyable aspects of it, and I do as best I can with what I’ve got. I know that I have no right to call myself qualified, though I’m not sure that “qualified” makes a difference here. All of these issues have becomes less bothersome as time has passed, largely because I’ve realized that it’s useless to care too much when the kids don’t. The ones who do (and I do have some) will let you know and they will talk to you outside of class – those are the ones that make this enjoyable. I’m sure this is a common sentiment of teachers everywhere, but it’s interesting to look at it in light of the culture you’re dealing with.

It’s a shame that so many of these problems persist – there are articles in newspapers and whatnot all of the time, but nothing is ever done to change things. These kids aren’t dumb, they aren’t slow and they aren’t lazy, but the school system certainly sets it up so that they appear to be in certain realms. I think it’s a big reason why Thailand isn’t developed yet and doesn’t seem to be getting any closer. If schools don’t teach critical thinking, responsibility, consequence (aside from being hit with a stick) and awareness of the outside world, then your population will be without. When it comes to English, at least, they could start by not employing crash-course “teachers” like myself!

The journey and (eventually) the destination

Friday, August 8th, 2008

One thing that I’ve learned in Thailand is that no matter how long it may take or how haphazard the method may be, someone will always make sure that you get where you’re going!

A good example of this happened several weeks ago, as Gabe and I were trying to hail a taxi home from Sukhumvit. A persistent tuk-tuk driver kept trying to lure us in, claiming he would take us to Tao Pun (the major road near my place) for 70 baht, well below a cab fare. Although it seemed like it was a bit far for a tuk-tuk ride, he insisted that he knew Tao Pun (not always the case) and we decided to go.

Ten minutes later we were pulling into the driveway of Tao Pun Hotel – definitely not where we needed to be! Gabe and I started laughing, though I half expected that we would have to pay this guy then switch to a taxi. That wasn’t the case, however – it quickly dawned on our driver that we meant THE Tao Pun (white people don’t go there!) and he also laughed, saying “Tao Pun, 100 baht!” We agreed as it was still a good deal and soon we were being dropped off at our 7-eleven. There was no frustration, irritation or insistence that we pay since we hadn’t clarified our destination; he just found humor in the mistake and fixed it!

There were other great examples this past weekend. We had decided to go to Lopburi to see the monkeys and a few of my friends. We’d planned to catch an 8:30 train on Saturday morning, but a late night of drinking with the street vendors and the changing plans of my friends botched that idea. It was no problem, as the online railway schedule showed a 3rd class train leaving Bangsue at 10:04. We jumped in a taxi and got to the station merely minutes before, wondering if we’d miss it again.

We DID miss it, but not by mere minutes…it had left at 9:40! Their train schedule wasn’t even remotely related to ours and it showed the next train leaving at 1:45. We were directed to the other station where there was a departure for Ayutthaya any second, which would at least get us halfway there. We ran and managed to get on, cramming into the aisle as the food vendors pushed past, calling out their prices.

It was a two hour trip and about halfway through a very nice guy gave up his bench for us. As we neared Ayutthaya we got up, ready to exit. We got off at what we believed to be the right stop, only to see a sign reading “Ban Phe”…luckily we made it back on, several Thais gesturing at us. At least five people asked where we were going and made sure we knew it was two more stops. At the next one, several others reminded us not to get off quite yet. Soon after, a conductor came by, indicating to me that Ayutthaya was next and not to miss it.

We got off and sat to wait an hour for the next train to Lopburi. While waiting, another conductor approached me and, assuming that we were headed to Bangkok, pointed out which platform we needed to be on. I told him that we were going to Lopburi and he apologized, revising his information. It wasn’t anything that I didn’t already know, but I certainly appreciated it!

We eventually got to Lopburi and spent a few hours getting attacked by crazy monkeys and catching up with some of my friends (see photos!). The last train was at 5:30, but Gabe and I decided to stop back in Ayutthaya to hang out with Michelle for a bit. It ended up being something of a pointless stop; we only managed to explore the night market and grab a snack before the storm rolled in. It wasn’t going to let up, so we decided to just go ahead and go back to the station to catch the 9:45 train.

We got to the station via shared songtaew, only to find out that the train was first-class and would cost 320 baht – unacceptable since it had only cost 13 baht to get there! Gabe suggested trying our luck with the buses, so we headed back into the rain to find a tuk-tuk. He went to inquire and was told “Buses finished, only trains now.” Meanwhile, I spoke to another old man who thought for a moment then said, eyes lighting up, “I know a bus! Only until 9:00, is far but I take you now. 100 baht!”

We figured that we had nothing to lose and took him up on the offer. We climbed into the back of his tuk-tuk, sheets of plastic hung around the outside to block the downpour. Halfway there, the tuk tuk stalled and didn’t start again. Our driver got out, pushed it out of the intersection, and motioned for us to wait. I assumed that 9:00 wouldn’t happen, and that we’d have to find someone else to take us back to the station and end up paying for the train anyways.

Lo and behold, the determined nature of the Thai transport professional did not fail us! A new tuk tuk pulled up across the street, our driver indicated that his engine was full of water and that his friend would take us to this mystery bus. He walked us across the street, waved at his friend, and sent us on our way!

Within ten minutes we pulled up next to a van with a few people standing around it, waiting on the side of the road. This was the ‘bus’ to Bangkok, so we paid our driver and were greeted by guys who were apparently waiting on us. These vans are known as minibuses and are basically a carpool service. They run a certain route, will pick up/drop off anyone along the way and don’t leave until they are full! We paid 40 baht (much more like it) and squeezed in.

We were in Bangkok within 45 minutes and pulled up to a huge transport center outside of a mall in Rangsit, on the outskirts of the city. This was apparently the final stop and although I luckily knew where we were (I have friends living in the area), it was still a hefty taxi ride to Bangsue.

The driver asked where we needed to go and after I told him he spoke with one of our fellow passengers. She indicated that we should follow her, so we shrugged and did so. This girl literally spent 30 minutes asking all sorts of bus drivers, minibus touts and random people how to get us to Bangsue. I knew that we could just stop a taxi, but she seemed determined and we kept following her through the hordes of people.

Eventually she explained in very broken English that she was waiting for Bus 29 – it could take us MoChit, where we could get on the subway to Bangsue. Was that okay? I said that of course it was okay, and asked if she was going to the same place, which would explain why she was spending so much time on us! She smiled and shook her head, said no, no, she lives in a different area. Soon Bus 29 pulled up and she led us over, reiterating that we could get the subway at MoChit. We thanked her and she disappeared – I was blown away at her generosity!

The bus was of the archaic, local variety and cost an entire 7 baht to ride. It was packed at first and neither of us were totally sure how we would know where to get off, since we had no concept of the route. Eventually the crowds thinned and we were able to sit; as soon as we had a view of street signs and landmarks, we recognized the area and actually managed to get off at exactly the right spot!

Finally, finally we got home! It was about 9 hours of travel for 3 hours of sightseeing, but thanks to the nonsensical (yet effective) networks of “transporters,” we ended up exactly where we needed to be.

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Visual pleasure

Thursday, July 31st, 2008
You should all have my flickr link, http://www.flickr.com/photos/26728799@N06/ (there are new photos up), but I wanted to send out Gabe's as well. You can check out his photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/outdoorgabe/, and should probably add it to your favorites. Enjoy!

Against the odds

Thursday, July 31st, 2008
In most parts of the world, running is a test of physical endurance and mental strength. In Bangsue, running is a test of quick reflexes, high steps and the adaptability of the respiratory system! Although one of the most appealing ... [Continue reading this entry]

Scammed! Another contribution from GBG

Monday, July 28th, 2008
Just when you think you are adapting to the Thai lifestyle, avoiding the tourist priced eateries, learning useful phrases, knowing the roads, etc. YOU GET SCAMMED! I write this laughing because nearly all experienced backpackers think they are smarter than ... [Continue reading this entry]

How to find paradise for seventy dollars.

Thursday, July 24th, 2008
2690322619_4176d89490.jpg After an entire two days back in Bangkok, Gabe and I were about ready for another trip. Gabe had been kind enough to go buy the bus tickets on Tuesday while I was at work, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Being good at life! (a rediscovery of Thailand)

Wednesday, July 16th, 2008
As you've probably guessed by my lack of writing, Gabe has arrived and I've been preoccupied with finally having a partner in crime! I managed to find my way to the airport late Tuesday night and was there in plenty ... [Continue reading this entry]

Thai time, Thai size and other observations

Sunday, July 6th, 2008
It's another stormy Sunday afternoon, so I thought I'd pass the time with some more social commentary... First of all, Thai time. In Thailand, meeting times, starting times, ending times, departure times, arrival times and deadlines are all merely suggestions. Thai ... [Continue reading this entry]

Spicy food and other delights!

Tuesday, July 1st, 2008
Cyclone? Tornado? Independence Day? There is a giant cloud outside that looks like it may spawn 10 or 12 tornadoes (see photos), so I decided to spend some time commenting on a few ... [Continue reading this entry]