Sunday was again another beautiful day. Every single day here has been glorious sunshine with temperatures between 90 and 100. One day we did get over 100 degrees but always at night it cools down beautifully. There is generally a gentle warm breeze throughout the day and that, combined with the fact that it is a very dry heat here, has meant that we never, ever have felt uncomfortable.
Today we traveled through a spectacular mountain pass. With sheer drop offs on the side of the road, the badly corrigated dirt road became an exercise in steel nerves as I sat in the passenger seat. (Those of you who know me well know that I am used to being the driver.) Lisa did a magnificent job of traversing the difficult, windy road and saw us safely to the other side of the mountain where we were astounded to come upon the lush, green vineyards of the Cederberg Winery, nestled high in the Cederberg Mountains. This was the first of our two destinations today.
When the dutch family that operates the winery first began growing grapes here they were belittled and their exploits considered foolhardy. You could not make good wine from grapes grown at such an altitude the “experts” said.
Throughout the years, the winery has consistently proven the contrary; producing many fine and award winning wines recognized throughout the world. Last year they were recognized for the best Shiraz in the world. So much for the “experts”!
Unfortunately, because it was New Year’s Day, there was no wine tasting that day but the wine store was open so we each purchased a selection of wines to hold our own wine tasting at home. Who needs little sips when you can partake from the whole bottle! I like white wine so I purchased their award winning Sauvinon Blanc and a bottle of Chenin. I am looking forward to enjoying them as we gather at the Boma each night. The grounds of the winery were beautifully maintained and landscaped. It was refreshing to see this lush oasis in the middle of the desert mountains.
Once again I am struck by the remoteness of things here. There are amazing establishments using state-of-the-art equipment everywhere but often you have to travel miles on windy, bumpy, gravel roads to reach them. Then, all of a sudden, they appear as a patch of relief from the stark landscape.
The business culture here is incredible and not at all what you would think. I hate to dwell on the race element but it is impossible not to as it is so integral to the structure of society in this area. Even though the blacks are now free, they are very much an unskilled labour force, and so business and industry appear to be almost exclusively run by the whites. Linton tells me, however, that this is not the case in the Johannesburg area which is much more dominated by blacks and is considered the seat of black power. (Remember I’ve only been here a short time so I’m reluctant to make broad, carved in stone social statements. Only my observations.) Nevertheless, the system works for them.
The whites here are incredibly industrious. They overcome severe obstacles that would deter most of us and they seem to do it without complaint or criticism. They simply decide what they want to do and then go about doing it. Things appear to be on a much smaller scale here, but when you hear their gross production figures it is absolutely astounding what they accomplish when you look at the obstacles they face.
One of the benefits to business here is of course a large base of labourers who are inexpensive to hire. Most businesses out here (outside of the city) house their workers right on the property and this housing is part of their compensation. It is just hilarious to see these modest shacks scattered on the hillside and as you gaze at them sympathetically, realize that there is a satellite dish outside so they can watch TV.
Despite our distain for race discrimination, it is impossible not to realize that there is a symbiotic relationship that makes this system work. Equality is a very new concept here and I am constantly amazed at how far they have come in such a short period of time.
Our wine in hand we ventured even further into the Cederberg to explore the amazing Stadsaal Caves and the rock paintings of the San Bushmen who inhabited this area many years ago. These drawings are painted on the cave walls and vary in age between 300 and 6000 years. Most depict people, Eland and Elephant. Historically, vast numbers of elephants inhabited this area but over hunting has eliminated them so there are none here now.
After viewing the cave art, we took a couple of hours to explore the various cave formations in the sandstone. Huge outcroppings are everywhere with caves and tunnels riddled throughout. Lisa and I enjoyed picking out formations such as the cobra and the old woman and many others that required varying degrees of imagination. The light was fabulous as we were there at late afternoon and the evening sun soaked into the red sandstone rock, making them a rich pallet of reds, oranges, gray and sand. Magnificant.
As the evening shadows began to fall we headed back to Gecko Creek in order to traverse the narrow mountain pass in daylight. We arrived back just in time to join everyone on the Lapa lawn, a grassy area just outside of the Lapa where we gather each night to enjoy a chat and refreshment in the late afternoon. We were pleased to have our new wine additions to our beverage selection to enjoy as the setting sun emblazened the mountain vista before us with its last, fading rays. Doesn’t this sound like a tough life?
Morag