Seoul Coughing

(From The Korea Herald, Feb. 23, 2006)

By Tracey Stark 

Hidden from the view of most visitors to the misnamed Demilitarized Zone at Panmunjom is an enclave of nine soldiers representing the Neutral Nations Supervisory Commission, an important but often overlooked part of the 1953 Armistice Agreement.

Resembling a woodland retreat, surrounded by evergreens and rolling mossy hills, it is the home of the Swedish and Swiss contingents of the NNSC whose jobs are to act as supervisors, observers, inspectors and investigators along the DMZ and, more specifically, in the Joint Security Area. 

Palpable tension

A small alley off the main street of Insa-dong in Seoul. These alleys are usually the best places to find good Korean food in small, family-owned restaurants.

I live in an area chock full of art schools, universities, and did I mention art schools?

A funny thing about Korea is that they like to stick all similar businesses next to each other. Go to any area with restaurants and you will frequently see all the galbi restaurants in a row and then all the pork restaurants in a row, then all the seafood restaurants clumped together.

The same holds true for the art schools of Hongdae. There are other places suitable for art schools, I’m sure. But the majority of them are along a single road in Hongdae, home of Hongik University.

The students in the Hongdae area are similar in one way: they are all striving to be different. But they want to be different in the same way. As art students they have an idea of what they should look like and then they all go for that look. That affords them some comfort in that they ARE different from non-art school students, but they are the same as the rest of the art school students. No one will stick out like a sore thumb and will not have to suffer for being too different.

So in the art school section the way they differentiate themselves is by wearing full length aprons everywhere they go. Six days a week you can see them walking down the street in their aprons. Who knows if they even have art class that day? It doesn’t really matter.

Girls (and they are mostly girls) wearing blue aprons won’t walk down the street with the girls in the green aprons. They clump together or walk alone. But they never cross the line. Even talking to an other-apron girl is unheard of.

When I first moved here and saw this I thought it had to do with all the restaurants in the area. But I realized that there aren’t THAT many restaurants. And finally I noticed the paint splatters on some of the aprons. A lot of this paint appeared to be strategically placed on the apron in a very artistic way.

What bothered me when I realized this was a status symbol was that it seemed ridiculous to walk down the street in an apron, when you could just roll it up and put it on when you get to class. I expressed this opinion (in a very negative and accusatory way) to a friend of mine. She told me to calm down and not let this be seen as a pretentious “look at me, look at me” statement I was making it out to be.

But what else can it be? First of all, art school is usually attended by pretentious idiots anyway. And second of all, in Korea the need to conform overrides all other rational thinking.

“No,” Aly protested. “It’s just like letter jackets jocks wear in high school in the U.S.”

“No,” I argued. “Letter jackets serve a purpose. They keep the wearer warm for one thing.”

“But they are really just worn to differentiate the wearer from everyone else.”

After a while of pondering this and the fact that most of these girls are really only 18-21 years old, I began to accept the fact that it really was harmless and probably no more pretentious than a letter jacket.

Maybe my problem is that I never had a letter jacket or an art school apron. Or maybe it’s because I never gave two shits about conforming. Just like everyone else.

(From The Korea Herald, November 15, 2005)

Very few Koreans can imagine the possibility of the North attacking

The following is the second in a five-part series of articles on how Korea is perceived by foreigners and what efforts Koreans should make to enhance its images abroad. – Ed.

By Tracey Stark

It is a commonly held belief in the West that the Korean Peninsula is a powder keg waiting to be ignited by some random event, resulting in a second Korean War.

A foreigner might also believe that in Seoul – a scant 50 kilometers from the North Korean border – there is palpable fear and worry that their northern neighbor, nay, their brothers, are inclined to attack. But ask any Korean or foreign resident walking down the street and they will tell you the same thing: Anxiety over the communist state to the north is minimal and seldom a subject of everyday conversation.

“When I traveled abroad it was something people asked me about often,” said Lim Seung-eun, 27. “I was even urged not to return to Korea by my friends in Australia.”

A teacher in Gyeonggi Province from the United Kingdom, Graeme Armitage, 27, recalled before coming to Korea more than three years ago that although he and his parents didn’t have any preconceived notions about Korea, he had friends and family who continually confused North and South Korea, and thought he was going to live in the communist North.

“There was no concern from my parents that I was in any danger, but other relatives weren’t so clued up on Korea. They knew very little about the place.”

Western media may be partly to blame. News with the mention of Korea is most often sensationalized stories about the looming threat of North Korea, or a story involving large animals running wild through Seoul. (Recently a story about a woman in Seoul whose baby stroller got caught in the doors of a subway is being shown frequently on CNN.)

That is changing these days with international events being held in Korea like the World Cup, Pusan International Film Festival and the current Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation summit being held in Busan. While the coverage may only last a few days, and then return to the ongoing saga of the six-party talks, it is effective in separating myth from reality.

“Before I came to Korea I didn’t know what to expect. It seems like all the news you hear about the country has to do with North Korea’s aggressive stance,” said Dan Secor, a 34-year-old American, who lives in Ilsan with his Korean wife. “But you get here and see that this country has been neglected by the media.”

Secor added that on a trip home to Massachusetts when he told people he was in Korea the second most frequent question – after the North Korean issue – was “Did you see the elephants run rampant through Seoul?” referring to an isolated event in a very small part of a very large town.

A group of dedicated Koreans have taken up the task of spreading the truth about South Korea. The Voluntary Agency Network of Korea began in 1999 and now has 15,000 members and set its task as the disseminating of the truth about Korea.

“All VANK’s members are guiding overseas Koreans and foreigners so that they can better understand Korean culture, language, or situation, etc. through e-mail or postal-mail and at the same time we are building friendships, bridging cultures and changing the image of Korea as cyber diplomats,” VANK’s website, www.prkorea.com, says.

But the question must be posed: Why would people worry?

For starters, in the event of a war, the initial bombardment on Seoul would be in the neighborhood of 500,000 rounds per hour landing on Seoul, according to the U.S. military. This bombardment wouldn’t be contained for several days. The outcome would be disastrous.

Secondly, North Korea dropped out of the Nuclear Nonproliferation Treaty and then subsequently bragged about possessing nuclear fissile material – enough for several warheads. They have also advanced in short- and long-range missile technology.

With the breaching of multiple international agreements on the part of North Korea, it is accepted by many in the South that the North’s government can’t be trusted. But with recent progress in the six-party talks and the nuclear threat diminished, the world may be breathing a collective sigh of relief.

Very few ordinary Koreans can conceive the possibility of the North attacking them.

“They look like us and we speak the same language. The only way they would attack is if they were attacked first,” said student Cho Hyun-i. She added that it was unlikely that South Korea would make such a move and pointed to the United States as the most likely catalyst of a war ever starting on the peninsula.

With a population of 48 million in an area about the same size as the U.S. state of Virginia (population 7.4 million), crime can be another worry.

The numbers show this to be false as well, as 2002 crime rates for Korea were significantly lower than those of neighboring Japan, in most areas, and the United States, United Kingdom and Germany in all categories.

The overall crime rate was 1,674 incidents per 100,000 people in Korea, while those numbers were more than one third higher in Japan at 2,240 per 100,000. The United States and the United Kingdom followed with 4,119 and 11,240 per 100,000 people respectively. Murder rates in 2002 for Korea, the United States and United Kingdom per 100,000 were 2.1, 5.6 and 3.5 respectively. Rape and sexual assault in those same three nations were 19.8, 33 and 86.6 per 100,000 respectively.

“I feel safer walking down the street late at night in Seoul than I did in Boston,” said Secor. He added that the drug culture of the big cities of America were what led to higher crime rates. “Korea seems pretty drug-free.”

An outsider may be surprised to see many busloads of Korean police around the city, but this in no way reflects a high crime rate. They are most often used as crowd control around important buildings or to prevent the frequent protests from getting out of hand around the capital.

“It’s a reflection of our growth as a democracy to see so many protests. Under President Park (Chung-hee) these things would not have been permitted,” said university student Cho.

Although it may not be an urban utopia, Seoul has lifted its status in the world from the center of government of a less-developed, semi-democratic nation, to a rapidly growing, culturally diverse, center for international business and travel. Infrastructure improvements and an economy that made a quick recovery from the 1997-98 Asian financial crisis has proven to the international business community that Korea is no longer a poor Hermit Kingdom.

“Life is too short to worry about such things. We have learned a lot from our mistakes of the past. We will someday be united and that will make everyone in the world safer,” Lim said.

(traceystark@heraldm.com)

(From The Korea Herald, October 2005) 

by　Tracey　Stark

Brandi Vallodolid and Christina Cho stayed in a cage for more than an hour on Monday, October 24, 2005 to protest the inhumane treatment of chickens used by KFC in Seoul.

Two　bikini-clad　protesters　squatted　in　a　small　cage　for　more　than　an　hour　yesterday　in　front　of　a　KFC　in　Seoul　to　protest　the　inhumane　treatment　of　chickens　supplied　to　the　fast　food　chain.

As　the　regular　lunch　hour　was　beginning　in　Seoul,　two　women　in　yellow　bikinis　and　silver　high　heels　walked　down　the　street　carrying　a　small　wire　cage　and　signs　that　read,　”KFC　Tortures　Chicks,”　in　both　English　and　Korean,　stopped　in　front　of　the　fast　food　restaurant,　squatted　on　the　ground　and　placed　the　cage　over　their　heads.

They　were　in　Seoul　as　part　of　People　for　the　Ethical　Treatment　of　Animals’　ongoing　protest　–　called　”Kentucky　Fried　Cruelty”　–　against　what　they　say　is　the　fast　food　chains’　suppliers’　continual　inhumane　treatment　of　chickens.

The　cage　was　less　than　one　meter　wide,　and　three-quarters　of　a　meter　deep　and　tall.　But　the　women　were　not　complaining　about　the　cramped　space.

“It’s　not　as　uncomfortable　as　having　a　beak　cut　off　and　being　trampled　in　a　cage　my　entire　life,”　said　Brandi　Vallodolid,　who　works　at　PETA’s　main　U.S.　office　in　Norfolk,　Virginia.　

“We　have　way　more　space　than　the　chickens　do.　Their　personal　living　space　is　smaller　than　a　standard　sheet　of　paper,”　Christina　Cho,　a　classical　pianist　and　part-time　activist　added.

According　to　PETA’s　website　and　a　documentary　narrated　by　actress　Pamela　Anderson,　the　chickens　supplied　to　KFC　live　in　over-crowded　conditions,　develop　diseases　from　high　ammonia　levels,　become　lame　and　crippled　from　drugs　that　speed　up　growth　and　accidents　related　to　being　top　heavy,　and　when　they　are　caught　for　slaughter　they　are　often　thrown　violently　into　small　containers,　resulting　in　broken　legs　and　wings.　The　video　also　showed　the　operation　of　a　beak-trimming　machine　used　on　young　chicks.

The　slaughtering　process,　PETA　claims,　is　even　worse.　First,　the　chickens　are　hung　upside　down,　then　run　through　a　stun　bath,　with　voltages　so　low　the　chickens　are　often　completely　conscious.　The　chickens’　throats　are　then　slit　and　they　are　next　dipped　into　scalding　hot　water　for　feather　removal.　Again,　PETA　says,　the　chickens　are　still　often　conscious.

“The　beak-trimming　machine　shown　in　the　PETA　video　…　is　no　longer　in　common　use　in　our　industry,”　said　Richard　Lobb,　a　spokesperson　for　the　National　Chicken　Council.

PETA　spokesperson　Bruce　Friedrich　insisted　that　all　the　video　was　shot　within　the　last　year　and　a　half　of　its　release.

KFC　could　not　be　reached　for　comment,　but　animal　welfare　guidelines　and　press　releases　at　http://www.kfc.com/　refute　every　accusation　that　PETA　has　made.

“As　a　major　purchaser　of　food　products,　we　have　the　opportunity,　and　responsibility,　to　influence　the　way　animals　supplied　to　us　are　treated.　We　take　that　responsibility　very　seriously,　and　we　are　monitoring　our　suppliers　on　an　ongoing　basis　…　As　a　consequence,　it　is　our　goal　to　only　deal　with　suppliers　who　promise　to　maintain　our　high　standards　and　share　our　commitment　to　animal　welfare.

They　also　show　their　animal　welfare　and　poultry　guidelines,　covering　comfort　and　shelter,　catching,　transport,　holding,　stunning,　and　humane　slaughter.　”If　an　audit　reveals　dirty　or　sick　birds,　corrective　action　at　the　grow-out　house　must　be　taken　by　the　supplier,”　KFC’s　website　said.

The　website　also　lists　an　animal　welfare　council　consisting　of　animal　welfare　experts.　”In　consultation　with　our　Council,　Yum!　Brands　(the　parent　company　of　KFC)　has　developed　guidelines　and　audit　programs　for　our　suppliers　in　the　broiler　industry,”　the　website　said.

Broilers　are　chickens　used　for　their　meat.

Several　of　the　people　still　listed　on　the　website　have　recently　resigned　their　posts　over　a　proposed　confidentiality　agreement:　Dr.　Temple　Grandin,　Colorado　State　University　and　Dr.　Ian　Duncan,　Department　of　Animal　&　Poultry　Science,　University　of　Guelph,　Ontario.　The　agreement　would　prevent　them　from　speaking　to　the　press　about　any　of　their　findings　or　conclusions　related　to　KFC　suppliers.　

In　a　Chicago　Tribune　article　former　advisor　Adele　Douglass　said　that　KFC　”never　had　any　meetings.　They　never　asked　for　any　advice,　and　then　they　touted　to　the　press　that　they　had　this　animal-welfare　committee.　I　felt　like　I　was　being　used.”

Although　PETA　had　no　concrete　information　about　suppliers　of　Korea’s　KFC　restaurants　they　say　it　is　the　same　everywhere.

“We’ve　never　done　an　investigation　anywhere　where　there　weren’t　egregious　violations.　It’s　the　nature　of　mass　production,　but　they　have　to　find　a　way　to　do　it　humanely,”　Vallodolid　said.

One　such　supplier　was　Pilgrim’s　Pride,　in　West　Virginia.　Hidden　video　cameras　caught　workers　stomping　on　the　chickens,　drop-kicking　them　like　footballs　and　throwing　them　violently　against　a　wall.　And　it　appeared　that　the　workers　were　doing　it　for　fun.

The　footage　was　shot　by　a　PETA　investigator　who　worked　from　October　2003　to　May　2004　at　the　Pilgrim’s　Pride　plant　in　Moorefield,　which　won　KFC’s　”Supplier　of　the　Year”　award　in　1997.

KFC’s　president　Gregg　Dedrick　said　in　a　press　conference　after　the　release　of　the　video　in　July　2004,　”As　a　responsible　corporate　citizen,　we　require　all　our　suppliers　to　treat　animals　humanely.　This　behavior　by　Pilgrim’s　Pride　employees　is　not　only　appalling,　it　violates　the　standards　we　have　in　place　for　all　our　suppliers.”

“We　think　it’s　outrageous　that　PETA　is　unfairly　singling　out　KFC.　They’ve　done　this　because　we’re　the　most　recognized　brand　selling　chicken　today,　and　our　name,　Kentucky　Fried　Chicken,　is　synonymous　with　chicken.　So　we　have　become　their　target.　The　truth　is,　we　sell　about　5　percent　of　all　the　chicken　in　America　today　–　that’s　less　than　the　leading　burger　chain.”

Dedrick　added,　”PETA’s　campaign　distorts　the　truth　and　we　would　ask　the　media　to　report　the　true　facts　of　the　situation.”　

Cho　was　arrested　in　Korea　in　January　this　year　for　a　similar　protest　in　Myeong-dong,　Seoul.　The　difference　then　was　that　she　and　a　cohort　were　topless.　She　was　charged　with　indecent　exposure　and　blocking　traffic.　

She　added　that　the　policeman　who　arrested　her　told　her　that　he　didn’t　want　to,　but　had　to　do　his　job.　”He　said　he　hoped　his　daughters　would　be　like　me　and　stand　up　for　what　they　believe　in.”

As　for　protesting　in　bikinis　and　even　topless,　they　say　it　is　the　best　way　to　attract　the　most　attention.

“It’s　the　MTV　generation.　We　have　to　do　something　flashy　or　we　just　won’t　get　people’s　attention,”　said　Jason　Baker　of　PETA　Asia-Pacific,　and　one　of　the　organizers　of　this　protest.　”If　you　just　hold　up　a　sign　people　just　don’t　care.”　

He　said　that　he　has　been　in　the　cage　before　on　demonstrations　and　attracted　a　lot　of　media　attention.　”But　nothing　like　this,”　he　said,　pointing　at　the　swarm　of　camera　men　and　women.

“We’re　not　here　to　make　a　problem.　We’re　here　to　bring　awareness　to　people　everywhere,”　Cho　said　from　inside　the　cage.

Vallodolid　added,　”This　leads　to　more　hits　on　the　website　–　http://www.peta.org/　–　and　that　leads　to　change.”

The　protest　ended　after　about　an　hour　without　incident.(traceystark@heraldm.com)