BootsnAll Travel Network



Good night, sleep tight…

December 14th, 2006

The next week or so was not so exciting. I went to a small town called Alto Molocue, where Said and Zein live. (These guys were the father-son duo who gave me a free ride just a week or so earlier). The town was not all that interesting, though there was an American Peace Corps volunteer that I hung out with, who offered interesting insight into being a black American working in Africa. I spent a lot of time staring out the window at Said’s guesthouse to the back area where locals pulled water from the well and a chicken farmer tossed his chickens into the back of his pickup to take to market. Besides that, Said wanted to show me his mine, where he’s apparently starting to mine semi-precious stones. In the end, we got there too late to see it, although I did meet a local man who was apparently a general of the Renamo party during the Mozambican civil war, which was interesting. Continue reading this entry »

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I will stare at you so hard

November 24th, 2006

At this point in my travels, I’m pretty used to being the “different ” one – the white skin and blond hair being the obvious giveaway – having people look at me while walking down the street.  It was different here, though.  People stared.  Everyone stared.  And they stared hard, relentlessly, shamelessly, with mouth agape, turning their head to follow me walking down the road.  It’s darn hard not to feel it, and even harder to act as if it isn’t happening.  I think I wore a little smile of embarrasment as I walked down the road.  And it never changed the whole time I was in Pebane. Continue reading this entry »

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My head under her leg under my arm under her toe…

November 9th, 2006

I decided to leave Zimbabwe after getting back from the Zambezi Valley.  News that my grandmother passed away had come (love ya, Gramma), and I wanted some time to myself.  Will, his friends, and his family were amazing in hosting me, and I thank them a million times over.  There’s lots more to see in Zimbabwe (including the obvious Victoria Falls), but it’ll have to wait for “next time”…  For now, I was headed back to Mozambique. Continue reading this entry »

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TWoGin’ it up in Zim

November 8th, 2006

Despite all the weekend fun – flying planes, searching for bushman paintings and petting elephants – I was now starting to get a deeper understanding into Zimbabwe and the people who live there.  Will assured me: “Through all of the turmoil going on here we still live a really good life.”  And I started to see more and more of what he meant. Continue reading this entry »

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Feet-sucking elephants

November 8th, 2006

The bus ride to Harare was fairly uneventful, except for the one time we got stopped by police, searching for money.  Everyone in the bus filed off, then filed on as everyone opened their bags and the police officer peeked inside.  Very unthorough; mostly a waste of time.  When I arrived in Harare, I was given a ride by a pick-up taxi.  I threw my things in the back and sat in the front.  Mistake #1.  As we drove along, the driver asking me how the police were on the road in to Harare, I looked back to check on my things.  Lo and behold did I notice the guy in the back going through my bag.  We were at a stoplight, so I jumped out in the back with him. Continue reading this entry »

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Maybe hitching ain’t my thing…

November 7th, 2006

I originally had no plans to go to Zimbabwe.  The last bit of news I remembered was about Mugabe demolishing housing projects with no warning and no justification.  They’re got their problems, I figured; I’ll just wait until some other day.  Well, as I got closer and closer to Zimbabwe, I met others who had been there, and assured me that it was safe.  Besides, I knew Will from back when I was in London, so I figured I’d check it out. Continue reading this entry »

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Secret Agent Man

November 7th, 2006

Most of the time I had been at the Pink Papaya, I had the place to myself. After a long day of travel, I was looking forward to a nice quiet night. It never happens that way, though. Usually when you want a quiet night, you find a place full of people; when you want a friend or two, you find yourself in a place alone. Without fail, this is how it works. Arriving back at the Pink Papaya, I was greeted by nearly a full house, although Helen wasn’t there. She had taken a group of people out to her Forest Retreat, the original reason I seeked out the Pink Papaya, and a place I never went to. Continue reading this entry »

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Hi. Remember me? Back online…

November 6th, 2006

Hi there. So, it’s been a while, huh? Yeah. Sorry about that. Internet access was less and less accessible in northern Mozambique (let alone electricity and running water), but I think that’ll change now.  I’m currently in Tanzania, about to head into Rwanda (no worries…genocide ended over 10 years ago!), and it seems that internet is much more widely available in these parts.  Anyway, let’s get back to it…

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White Zimbabwe…it’s a small, small world, and I haven’t even arrived yet!

September 28th, 2006

The next day I didn’t do much but hang around Mike’s house and watch television. He had satellite TV, and it was kind of fun to just flip around the stations a bit during the day, especially since I haven’t had a TV at my disposal for a while. Mike had another guy staying at his house as well (another guy from Zimbabwe), so we flipped around the TV together, having interesting conversation. Mike also had a maid, which was unexpected. She cleaned up everything after me (before I could get around to it); to be honest, it made me feel a bit strange. “Well, with all the unemployment you see outside…” Mike offered as a reason. Alright, I can see that. Continue reading this entry »

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Mormon Mozambique? Let’s hope not…

September 28th, 2006

I woke up at 3:30 in the morning to get the 4:30 chapa to Beira. There was a group of us leaving, so we all made the dark walk through town together. I loaded my things on the little back trailer (normally not there), got on the chapa, and fell asleep while we waited to leave. These chapas are packed full – 4 people sit across, with a seat that folds up and down to allow passengers to pass through. In order to get out of the back, people in front need to get out, fold the chair up, and then allow you to pass. I had one of the folding chairs this time, which are definitely the least comfortable, due to their small folding back. No worries, though, I still slept, despite all of that. We finally left close to 5:30am, which made me really happy I had woken up 2 hours earlier to get there on time. Continue reading this entry »

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