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Just to let you know (anyone who still checks this) that I’ll be coming home (for a visit) at the end of April and will be staying through May. Planned cities to visit are Chicago, New Orleans, Washington DC and New York before returning back to Addis Ababa, which is where I currently am.
Hope to see you all soon!
It’s 6:34pm on December 31, 2007. At least that’s what my watch tells me. But, if you were to ask a local on the streets of Addis Ababa, they’ll tell you that it’s 12:34pm on Takhsas 21st, 2000 – Takhsas being the name of the 4th month in the Ethiopian calendar. Confusing? It can be if you pay attention. And most of the time I don’t. I live according to my time, my strange faranji* time, where the new day starts in the middle of the night and thoughts of the new millennium are well in the past. Continue reading this entry »
You’d be watching this on local television…
With a few minutes available to me, I thought I would heed my mother’s advice and just post something quick to let everyone know that I haven’t (yet) been kidnapped by rebels and I still remain with my entire body intact. Continue reading this entry »
I met the Mystery Birthday Boy the next morning over breakfast. He was interesting enough…the son of a Zanzibari woman and an African-American soldier, he was adopted by the-now German ambassador to Chile (if I remember the story correctly.) When his mother died, his family contacted him to inform him he had property on the island, which he now co-owns with his fat Muslim uncle (with something like 3 wives, all with whom he claims to be in love with.) I don’t remember Mystery Birthday Boy’s name, so I’ll just call him MBB. And as far as my rash goes? What was on my arm was starting to dry up already, and the roof of my mouth was less inflamed. I’ll never know what it was, though. Continue reading this entry »
The next morning I woke up, refreshed, although the quick reflection of where I was reminded me of the past day’s events and my ongoing concern about finding a replacement brake handle for my Vespa. I made a deal with the guy at my hotel, who was headed back to Stone Town, to buy me a handle while he was there that I would then install myself. That worry behind me, I spent the morning and a better part of the afternoon enjoying the beaches that Zanzibar is famous for. Continue reading this entry »
To my pleasant surprise, the man I gave the $10 to showed up the next morning on schedule, so I left with him to get my scooter. He hadn’t gotten the license, as I had hoped, but said he would take care of it that morning. We approached a few guys standing around a scooter, undoubtedly the one I would be taking. He told me to wait there while he went for my license. Completely baffled as to how he could get me a license without me being there, I started to argue with him. The guy with the scooter now wanted nothing to do with me, so we left. Continue reading this entry »
The next day brought Eid al-Fitr, the entire reason I had traveled so intensely for three days to get to Zanzibar. I spent the morning exploring Stone Town, navigating through the narrow alleyways, visiting old Sultans’ mansions, trying to determine which house was actually where Freddie Mercury was born, and admiring the locals celebrating their holiday. The women were dressed in beautiful, colorful new dresses, and the boys and men wore crisp, white long dress-like garments (called shalwar chamiss…or something like that.) The little girls were dressed in their new dresses as well, with their faces made up beautifully and every hair in place. Everyone was looking their best for this celebration to mark the end of the Ramadan fasting period. Continue reading this entry »
I woke up early the next morning for my third long-travel-day in a row. I was told to be waiting for the bus by 7, so I woke up at 6, packed and sat in the bus staging area (an open area surrounded by shops). I used the morning to study a little of Swahili, starting with the numbers – the most important thing to know of any language. I also learned the word for eggs – mayai (pronounced “my eye”), thanks to the little boy with the raspy voice screaming it repeatedly in an effort to sell his boiled goods. Buses came and went, and I was quick to learn that all of the buses headed to Dar es Salaam were starting in the town I had left the afternoon before…so much for the head start I was looking for.
My last destination in Mozambique was Mocimboa da Praia, and the bus ride there was fabulous. I made friends with the fare collector, who shared a coconut with me. He also pointed out all the historical sites to me – places where battles started, sparking the independence fight against the Portuguese. It was a nice little tour from the bus seat and a good finale for Mozambique. Continue reading this entry »
Tania