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Hong Kong – Carlsberg don’t make airports, but if they did…

Saturday, May 6th, 2006

It is with no small amount of incredulity that I realise I have now reached my third country on this trip. To those of you at home forced to read my meanderings out of politeness or family ties, it probably seems an eternity, but for me, it’s absolutley flying by. I guess the old saying really is true. Cast ne’er a clout till May be out. Oh, and time flies when you’re having fun.

I arrived at the airport in Sri Lanka ridiculously early, even by my standards. There were a couple of reasons for this – firstly, my flight was at 2am and I’d been told by a few people that it wasn’t safe to get the night bus alone. And, secondly, I’d completely run out of things to do in Negombo. Negombo was my last stop in Sri Lanka, because of its proximity to the airport, but it is utterly barren of any entertainment. It’s a run down old seaside town – think Blackpool, but less glamorous. Really. I’d been to the post office three times, the internet cafe five times, and I’d even splurged on a buffet lunch at a posh hotel. Despite my dedication and perserverence to the dual causes of eating and time wasting, I couldn’t spin it out for more than three hours. Bear in mind, though, that’s three hours of eating. My dedication knows no bounds.

When I arrived at the airport, it was too early for my flight to be on the board, so I posted myself on some insanely uncomfortable chairs – I’m now convinced they make them that way on purpose, probably as penance for feeling smug about being early – near a couple of girls, one of whom started talking to me. She was Becky and her friend was Erin, and they recognised me from Kandy, where we’d spoken briefly and seen each other around town after that. They were in what politely might be termed a bit of a pickle, and impolitely would be called something that I’m not going to write because my Mum reads this. Basically, they were booked on the 2am flight on Saturday morning but had somehow looked at the tickets, seen the date and the time, and assumed it would be 2am Saturday night/Sunday morning – the flight I was on. Becky was now booked on to my flight but Erin was only on standby, and would fly out for sure the next day. They were amazingly good humoured about it, considering they had been at the airport for 24 hours, and hadn’t slept for 48 hours, and they managed to keep me entertained with card games, and also with their superior knowledge about the airport, being long term citizens. They told me which were the best loos and which had the attendants that watched you wash your hands a bit too closely (to give marks out of 10, maybe?), who were the friendly security guards, and how much the coffee was at the upstairs lounge. I suppose they were prettier versions of Tom Hanks in that film ‘Terminal’ (which I haven’t seen but am obviously an expert in, having viewed the trailers and spoken one time to someone who had seen it).

As soon as we saw a Cathay Pacific Uniform, at about 11pm, we bolted over and Erin pleaded her case – lone female, another 24 hours to wait in the airport, separated from her friends, and so on. I felt like I was in a Sri Lankan version of ‘Airport’ only with fewer orange uniforms, less orange foundation, and friendly, helpful staff – the lady even apologised when she couldn’t guarantee Erin a place.
Becky and I checked in and I went through to Departures, while Becky hung back with Erin to see what the verdict would be. 10 minutes before we boarded, I saw Becky come through alone. She was gutted to leave Erin, but it seemed unavoidable – the flight was completely full, with no room for her. Then, just to make the situation laughable again, Becky got called back, and it turned out she’d been upgraded to Business Class. At least she’d manage a good sleep on the plane, although she declined my (selfless, I thought) offer to swap seats with her.
The flight was excellent, even when I was only one of a couple of passengers to stay on past Bangkok to Hong Kong. I’ve never been on a plane during a turnaround before, and it was so much fun to watch. You know those plagues of locusts that can strip a place clean in minutes? This is what the Cathay staff at Bangkok were like, they descended and, in just a few minutes, then whole plane was clean again for the new set of passengers. They each had their own job – one woman ignored a piece of tissue on the floor, and I was about to point it out when a guy, obviously on the Tissue on the Floor Team, came by and nabbed it. Impressive. Then I had some lovely dim sum for breakfast, which made me delighted to realise I was somewhere so completely different I wouldn’t be constantly comparing it to India, as happened in Sri Lanka.
Now I’m at Hong Kong Airport, a worthy winner of the Best Airport In The World title (yes, these things really happen. I want to be on the panel that decides. Sri Lanka would be ruled out because of the hard chairs and the Snickers Bar costing one pound. No, the peanuts weren’t gold plated). Hong Kong has free internet access – which is why I’m being so wordy – and is easy to get around. I’ve only managed to get lost once. So in a few hours I’m off to Beijing, and I couldn’t be more ready for it.

Sri Lanka – Final Thoughts

Saturday, May 6th, 2006

It’s easy to see why, in the past, so many nations fought to make Sri Lanka part of their empires. I’m not condoning colonialism or any of its implications; this, however, does have the air of an island blessed with precious things.

I can’t remember the last time I saw such astonishingly beautiful scenery. I know this has been a recurring theme throughout my Sri Lanka diaries, and it will be painfully obvious when I upload my photos, but I think pictures will be the only way of completely communicationg the beauty of this country. Peaks as seemingly high as those in, say, Switzerland or Austria, vegetation so lush the air must be the most oxygenated in the world, flowers every colour of the rainbow and more besides and, on the fringes, white beaches and clean, clean seas. I think if I was an explorer in years gone by, I’d have certainly settled here too, believing it to be paradise.

And yet, and yet. Every day you are reminded that it isn’t paradise, but something altogether more flawed. The tsunami devastated, utterly, parts of the south and east coasts. Talking to people who live there, they point out, almost nonchalantly, where walls were swept away, or the tree they climbed to save themselves, or the hotel a few doors away where people died. I hold my hands up and admit that, when I was in Mirissa on the coast, I didn’t sleep very soundly. Every big wave, every gust of wind, had me snapping into wakefulness, heart racing. I had to give myself a mental slap round the face and tell myself that not only would anything as devastating as that probably never happen again in my lifetime, but also I was being a real coward. I was there for a few days only, and yet I was surrounded by the people who had survived the disaster. and who were re-building their shattered lives on the same spot.

A combination of the tsunami and the political situation here seems to result in a lack of tourists. This then has the knock-on effect I described in an earlier entry, where tourists are either hassled a lot (in particular the women – men that I’ve spoken to have had nowhere near as much), or treated like the most honoured guests. A real paradox, and I hope that as more people visit, the super-nice Sri Lankans win out. Because they are very, very nice people indeed.

On the plane over here, I remember reading that one of Sri Lanka’s names is ‘Serendib’, from which the word ‘serendipity’ is derived. This is one of my most favourite words. Not only is it a treat to say out loud – try it, and feel it skipping from your tongue – but what a lovely meaning. A fortunate accident. Things going your way, unexpectedly. This made me smile on the way here but now, leaving, I’m smiling again because I have experienced some wonderful serendipity here. Mostly through the people I’ve met – Tina, Sarah, and especially Anna in Ella and Petra and Detlef – wonderful new friends. In addition, a few serendipitous , brief encounters with other people have really struck home, and will keep me thinking for a long time to come. And it is this serendipity that will be my lasting, happy, memory of Sri Lanka.

Mirissa – It’s a hard life

Thursday, May 4th, 2006
Bumper edition today, folks!  The reasons are threefold: 1. I've been lazy since I've got here and now I've found a good cheap internet cafe 2. It's Friday and you wouldn't be doing much work anyway - am I right or am ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ella – Mind the gap

Thursday, May 4th, 2006
The train journey from Kandy to Ella, further East, is beautiful.  It's funny, you'd think after a while of being surrounded all the time be completely stunning scenery, the effect would wear off, but it just doesn't happen.  I took ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sigiriya – The Rock

Thursday, May 4th, 2006
My next day trip out from Kandy was to the ancient rock fortress of Sigiriya.  This was built around 477AD - eat your heart out, Stratford Upon Avon!  It was the brainchild of King Kasyapa, who intended it as an ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pinnewala – Can I take one home please?

Wednesday, May 3rd, 2006
Kandy is well placed, pretty central in the country, so I decided to base myself there for a couple of days and take some day trips to outlying areas. And absolutely number one must see in my book, and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kandy – sweet tooth

Tuesday, May 2nd, 2006
I arrived in Kandy on Tuesday evening, tired after a long but very scenic route cross-country.  The views here are just spectacular - think Switzerland, but with tropical plants, and that's about as close a description as I can manage.  ... [Continue reading this entry]

Colombo – Not getting arrested

Thursday, April 27th, 2006
I arrived in a very warm and tropical Colombo at lunchtime on Monday 24th April, eyes all red and blurry from my emotional farewell to India.  I'd managed to meet my friend Dave at the airport (he was out at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangalore – Photos

Monday, April 24th, 2006

I'm currently uploading all my photos, and they'll be on my Flickr site soon (look right and you should see the link).

Meanwhile, here are some of my favourites, about the people I've been talking about.

This is a bad picture of ... [Continue reading this entry]

India – Final Thoughts

Monday, April 24th, 2006
First of all, apologies to everyone for the lack of blogging over the last couple of weeks. My days fell into such a happy routine that would have been incredibly dull for you to read - "Woke up, had ... [Continue reading this entry]