Kandy – sweet tooth
I arrived in Kandy on Tuesday evening, tired after a long but very scenic route cross-country. The views here are just spectacular – think Switzerland, but with tropical plants, and that’s about as close a description as I can manage. When I post my pictures, you’ll see that they’re ALL of the countryside – about every 10 seconds you see another gorgeous view that you just have to capture on camera.
I got a room in a quiet but nice guesthouse south of Kandy lake, up a verrrrrry steep road that made my thighs ache just to think about. It was quite late so I had some dinner at the guesthouse, chatting to the only other guest – an English girl called Sarah. She’d been there for a few days already so was helping me decide what to do in my few days there.
I set off early the next morning, after a huge breakfast, down into the town. Kandy is based around a lovely man-made lake, and was one of the main bases of the British when they were here. If memory serves me right (and it very often doesn’t, so don’t go quoting this in an exam or anything), I think Mountbatten was based there during the war, even though all his troops were in Trincomalee. He had good taste – it’s a pleasant little town to look at, all hills and trees and monkeys.
The main tourist site in Kandy is the Temple of the Tooth, where one of Buddha’s teeth is kept. Or maybe it isn’t. You see, there’s a bit of discussion gone on in the past as to whether it really is or isn’t there. The Buddhists sometimes say it is, and sometimes say it is kept somewhere else for safekeeping. Then the Portugese Catholics, in real spoilsport mode, it has to be said, claimed they stole it and burned it some time ago. Whichever story is true, the Temple of the Tooth is revered as one of the most sacred Buddhist sites.
After wandering through the many, many, many bag and body searches – of which I was glad, considering the bomb in Colombo the previous day, and a bomb had exploded here some years ago – I got to the entrance and paid the tourist-only entrance fee. I considered claiming I was a Buddhist on pilgrimage, not just a common or garden tourist, but this somehow seemed to go against the whole principle of Buddhism. I got a free self-guide on MP3, though, but I had to leave something as security. As my passport is with the Chinese Embassy in Colombo, I had the choice between leaving my current switch card, or leaving one that expired about 4 years ago, that I carry as a deterrent for muggers. Well, not an actual deterrent per se, I don’t think that waving this would dispel them like BatFink’s cape or anything, it’s more of a stunt card so if anyone nicks my purse, they will see that and scarper, leaving my real card untouched elsewhere on my person. If any would-be muggers are reading this, please disregard and forget the last sentence. Anyway, the upshot is I left my old card. Stop looking at me in disgust, I know it’s a Buddhist temple and all, but come on! I steal t-shirts from festivals, toiletries from posh hotels, of course I left my old card.
I skipped most of the MP3 tracks, as most of it was atmospheric music, and the rest was a guy sounding not unlike Jackie Chan talking me through the sacred sight. Which was unexpected, to say the least. And plus, I was dying to get to see the tooth. In my mind, I imagined a huge tooth (like my brother Michael’s wisdom tooth apparently was), lying on a velvet pillow.
I had to get in line and wait for about 30 minutes before I even got close to the tooth. And let me say right now, Sri Lankan Buddhists have taken tips from Italian Catholics on how to wait in a queue. When I was in Lourdes some time ago, we occasionally worked as marshalls on big processions like the Blessed Sacrament. Those little innocent-looking Italian grandmammas were the worst crowds to control. On one occasion, two of them knelt down as the procession went past, then tried to walk forward on their knees to get under. No chance, grandmamma. Same story in Kandy. People push you from all sides, all the while keeping their eyes heavenwards and their hands clasped in prayer. I worked in tandem with the lady next to me to keep the crowds back. Good to know that all the years spent digging Italian OAPs in the ribs haven’t gone to waste. So all this was building up to something spectacular.
And, well, I guess I was a little underwhelmed. OK, a lot. No velvet pillow, no huge tooth – in fact no tooth at all. Just a gold little box where the tooth is apparently kept. Or maybe not (see above…). The two mean, muscled monks either side who would have looked more at home on Venice Beach than in a temple, pushed me on quickly when they realised I had no offering to make, so I hurriedly nodded my head in what I hoped was at least vaguely a respectful gesture, and went on my way. I reluctantly handed back my MP3 player (even I couldn’t bring myself to steal from a temple), and headed back out.
After this, I made the short walk up a hill at the back of the temple to the British Garrison Cemetery. Most of the graves here are from the 19th century, from the Brits who headed out here to claim this precious island in the name of old Blighty. If the evidence from the cemetary is to be believed, most of them didn’t live long enough to enjoy the views here. Most died very young indeed, mainly from malaria, but some from fun things like sunstroke and wild elephants. The caretaker here was a real gem, knowledgeable and funny and interesting. I had the place to myself, and it was a treat. There’s no entrance fee which makes a nice change, but they ask for donations – I was more than happy to oblige.
That night, Sarah and I headed out to see a display of Kandyan dancing. This was very ornate, many drums and masks and things like that, and was pretty interesting, not least the ending, when there was firewalking. Needing a bit of refreshment after that, we headed to the imaginatively titled ‘Pub’ (I wonder how long it took them to come up with that name) where we sat on the balcony in wicker chairs, watching the world go by, and sinking a few Arrack cockails (made from the potent local booze, only drinkable if you add lime and passionfruit juice, which we did in abundance).
Tags: Sri Lanka, Travel
Suzanne
Hey Suze, I’m working yet another night shift- my god the NHS get the most out of their money!! You must e-mail us with the recipe of those delicious cocktails, you know how much our family enjoy them!! Caroline is especially great at mixing them, usually ending up on the ceiling or floor!! Hope you fot my e-mail. ENJOY!!!!! Lot of love x x
You’ve just rescued me from what was turning out to be the most boring day of my life so far! It’s Year 9 SATs exams this week and I’ve been scribing for a kid who has broken his arm. Know how the poor kids feel now!
Very impressed with your tale of the switch card – I’d call it being resourceful!
Take care my friend and keep blogging!
xxx
P.S. Was down in London at the weekend meeting the whole of Ronan’s family in one go! Will e-mail you with the scary details! Hope you got the other wedding photos I sent.
Hi Suze (SIS!)
Ha ha Long Island Ice Teas all over the kitchen ceiling – house warmings and birthdays aren’t the same unless you stick to the floor for the next six months as a reminder ;o)
Good to speak to you Suze at the weekend, was lovely to hear from you. Apologies for the v late phone call the night before, Mike and I hadn’t quite worked out how how late it would be on the other side of the world! (Too much vino I think!)
Received your postcard today – thanks so much! Mike and I are going to start looking at venues soon – so I’ll be in touch with web links so that you can let me know what you think.
Speak soon hun
Keep blogging
love and hugs
C
xxxx
Hey darlin’,
Just a little note to say how lovely it has been to log in and get an update on your latest exiting adventures. Your stories from the past weeks (or has it really been months already?!?) have in turn made me dream of travelling to faraway places, stare out of the windows at work with a wistful expression on my face (and no I DON’T sit all day looking out of the windows anway), contemplate giving it all up (yes that’s right, all my riches!) for a more spiritually-fulfilling nomad existence, ponder the bigger questions of life (such as how many items from a hotel can you pilfer before being arrested)…but most of all they have made Dinos and I roll around the flat giggling at your various antics….I think a career as a travel writer definitely beckons if the wedding planning business becomes scarce.
Am so happy that you have made wonderful new friends along the way and it is great(although not surprising) to discover that in the various corners of the world you have visited so far people appreciate and are attracted to your wonderful energy! Keep on enjoying the trip of a lifetime sweetie.
Thanks also for the postcard – it has pride of place in the kitchen!
Mwah mwah!
Lots of love,
David
X
If only I’d known I could’ve kept my heeeaaauuugeee wisdom tooth and donated it to the Buddhists as a stand in for Buddha’s missing molar. It had a Carabelli’s Cusp as well as long twisted roots. A real marvel of modern dentristry, of which I and my dentist often reminisce at my check ups.
My lower wisdom teeth are pushing on through, so I may be able to oblige with another specimen.
Glad to see your Lourdes crowd control skills coming in useful at last: pushy pilgrims need to know their place.
The new job is going well – there’s lots to do, but I’m looking on the positives of facing a good challenge and the ability to achieve some results… that’s if I can put up with my new car-pool buddy! ;0) Only joking. I’d best watch what I say, I know how you girls stick together.
Love you lots.
Michael
hi Suze glad to hea r that you are having a ball.What an experience for you .Look after your self love irene