Hong Kong – Great Expectations
‘High expectations are disappointments under construction’. So wrote the fabulous Marian Keyes. Sometimes it’s true, other times I find that things that are hugely hyped-up (such as the Taj Mahal and Terracotta Warriors) are popular for a very good reason indeed. I had high hopes for Hong Kong, and hoped that it wouldn’t let me down.
And boy, did it not let me down. I fell in love with it immediately. It reminded me of the time I went to Venice. The best thing about Venice, and I think now the best thing about Hong Kong, is that they are exactly like you imagine they will be. Hong Kong is completely crazy, it’s China meets London meets New York, meets Crazy Town, but it’s wonderful. It’s jumped right in there into my ‘Cities I would love to live in – quick, pass me the Vacancies section from the local paper’ category. FYI, other cities in this category include Paris, Prague, Rome, New York, Miami, Udaipur. Other categories I have are ‘Cities I would be happy to live in if someone offered me a fabulous job’ – London, Mumbai, Bangalore, Colombo (though, sadly, not at the moment as it seems to have kicked off big-time in Sri Lanka – here’s hoping it doesn’t last), Beijing, Shanghai; down through various combinations of possibilities to the lowest, ‘Cities I would not live in even if Jimmy Choo was run from there and they offered me the top job and they offered to pay my salary in shoes’ – Delhi, Dundee, Chengdu. (Apologies to all inhabitants of these cities, I probably don’t appreciate them or something).
Honestly, were it not for the fact that it’s insanely overcrowded already, I would recommend that everyone gets up right now and moves here. It has everything you could ever want from a city. (Including 100% humidity – I’ve given up on the hair, and I’m wandering around looking like Sideshow Bob). It has fabulous shops, cheap markets, amazing food (I had the best Dim Sum ever on Saturday morning, including these little spinach dumpling things that actually made me say “Oh, yum” out loud, forgetting that I was at a big table with lots of other people. Still, at least they gave me a wide berth with the soy sauce), and it’s literally the city that never sleeps – step outside at any time of night or day and there’s so much going on, including the avalanche of people who surround you with their offers of “copy watches, copy bags”.
I was staying in Kowloon, which is the 4km strip of land actually on the mainland across from HK island, which was ceded to the British along with the island and so forms part of HK. I was in Cosmic Guest House (far out, man), in Mirador Mansions. Mirador and Chungking Mansions are two famous (or rather, infamous) big blocks on Nathan Road, both are about 20 storeys high, and both contain a mish-mash of market stalls, restaurants, and cheap guest houses. It’s a tad wierd, granted, but the people here are friendly, and the room feels safe and clean, the main thing in a city. Actually, overall, HK feels like a safe place to be – another reason to come here.
On the first morning, I wanted to get my bearings, so, after aforementioned Dim Sum, I caught the famous Star Ferry across to HK island to go up The Peak. The highest point on the island, it’s famed for its fabulous views across HK bay and the surrounding islands. I got the Peak Tram up, which in actual fact is a furnicular railway, and oh my goodness that’s a steep track. At times it felt as if I was lying vertical in my seat. Any steeper, and I would have got to know the guy in the seat behind me a little better than either of us would have been comfortable with. Unfortunately, the HUGE guy in the seat in front wasn’t bothered with such considerations. Stepping out of his chair to let his lumbering girlfriend take some photos, he stepped with real precision on my toe. He was as heavy as he looked. (EA, I took a photo just for you). Rubbing my toe and grimacing, I was distracted from my pain at the sheer angle at which we were passing nearby skyscrapers. It’s so completely odd, and throws your perspective all out.
In about 8 minutes, we were at the top, and I was greeted with a stunning view right down the harbour. Well, I would have been, had the blanket of fog that appears to be following me not swamped the peak. I could see precisely nothing. Still, I took some photos, more for amusement than anything else, and had a delish hot chocolate at the old, colonial-built Peak Lookout bar. It’s strange, when I was inside, I looked out to the swirling mist, felt the absolutely fierce aircon that seems to be mandatory here in HK, and felt almost wintery. That is, until I stepped outside and the humidity hit me like a warm, wet flannel.
The rest of my time here I’ve spent wandering about, I bought a weekly museum pass so have visited quite a few of the good standard of museums they have here. I loved the HK Museum of History, it started way back in the prehistoric age and showed the development of the city, through the British and Japanese times, right up to the handover back to the mainland. I also had such good fun in the HK Space museum. It’s very ‘hands-on’, and I did a moonwalk (just call me Neil), flew a glider, and worked a rocket backpack. OK, they were simulations, but still, it was great fun.
I had another slumming day, when I went for afternoon tea in the Peninsula Hotel (I’m still sticking to the budget, though – afternoon tea is one of my favourite treats, plus if you time it right you don’t need to – or won’t want to – eat again all day. The Peninsula was ace, the cakes were most fabulous, but the tea itself let them down. Look alive, people!). This is attached to a veh, veh upmarket shopping arcade, so I had fun going into expensive shops and trying on clothes I can’t afford. Well, it was fun until I tried on a too-small dress in Prada, and heard that sickening ‘rrip’ sound of a seam that has stretched a bit too far. Did I ‘fess up, or did I run? You decide!
For cheaper versions, I headed to the Ladies Market (it should be called the Missy Market, as that’s what you hear everywhere you go – “Hello, Missy”. Although I was sorely tempted by the ‘original’, I’m sure, Chloe and Hermes bags (I want a Kelly! I want a Kelly! Maybe if I repeat it enough and click my heels like Dorothy, it will happen). I even turned away from gorgous ‘Gucci’ sandals at 3 quid. Wow, how strong am I? I consoled myself with some lovely hair accessories, two cheapo vest tops, and a belt to go with my too-long jeans (tell me people, would it look terrible if I took some scissors to them myself? I don’t trust my own judgement on this one).
On June 4th, it was the 17th anniversary on the Tian’anmen Square massacre, and, every year since then, the people of Hong Kong have held a candlelight vigil in Victoria Park. They remember and honour those who died, and they show their determination to have a completely democratic system, not only in HK, but throughout mainland China. Of this I will write more when I get to another country, but enough for now to say I went to the vigil, along with about 20,000 other people, and it was incredibly moving and dignified. It’s something I’m grateful to have had the chance to be involved in.
Another strange thing about HK is how many people I’ve met here who I met elsewhere in China. For a big country, it seems awfully strange at times. I met one guy from Beijing, two from Xi’an, two from Chengdu, one from the Yangtze river cruise, and one from Shanghai. And I think this encapsulates what I love best about this place. It’s a big city, a world player, but still is small enough to feel like home. So pass me that newspaper with the job ads.
Tags: China, Travel
Suzanne
Glad to hear you loved HK Suze. If you do decide to stay there, I’m sure I’d become a regular visitor as I just loved the place too. However, the thoughts of your Ma turning up on a regular basis should be enough of an incentive for you to forget the job applications and keep on travelling!!
Love you lots.
Mum
Hello!
Two things:
Go for it with the jeans – you’ve always been the artistic type!
FAB news about being a bridesmaid! (Although part of that is the selfish me celebrating the fact that you’ll have to come home even if it’s only for a little while!)
HK sounds wonderful – am so glad you like it there!
Take care and keep enjoying the adventure – and the noodles!
xxx
Hi Suze: That’s definitely NOT what I want to hear – you living in Hong Kong!! I can just about cope with the thought that you’ll be away for eighteen months……. I’m sure you’d tire of it after a while (ha ha!!) I’m not sure if my friend Wendy’s daughter/son-in-law and grandchildren are still in H.K. as I know they are moving on to Singapore (July I think??) pity I couldn’t have organised for you to see them as they love to have English family/friends to stay…. and they are a lovely couple. Wendy was in Bermuda at the same time as us. Bet you were delighted with being asked to be bridesmaid – and doesn’t the venue look beautiful? We were at a wedding on Saturday (Alan Evans who used to live in our road) and it was held in the Torintone Suite at Thornton Hall (where Andy and Sam are having their wedding… it was all very nice. Getting back to Hong Kong I believe it is an unbelievable place.
Must check where you are off to next…… I’m dizzy keeping up (I’m dizzy anyway!!).
Much love – take good care. God Bless
Auntie Rosemary x
I’m dead set against anyone taking scissors to Jean(s). Why don’t you just grow your legs a couple of inches?