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Evidence

Sunday, December 2nd, 2007

My last day in Płock, I returned to the state archives one last time, looking for absolute evidence that I was in fact related to the strangers from Piączyn. The archivist seemed happy to see me back and tried to shake my hand, but I had misread and thought he was reaching for my pen. I ended up stabbing him in the hand with my pen. Such miscommunications transcend all language.

Sifting through the parish birth records one last time, I found another kind of miscommunication, this one over a century old. My great grandfather did have a brother Józef after all- his name had been misspelled in Cyrillic. So we were related, after all.

Before catching a bus to Warsaw, I celebrated the week’s findings the only way I knew how- with a return to my favorite restaurant, Tessa. I ordered a pork chop with surówka, a tasty salad based on red pepper and cabbage. Indecisive between a coffee and a beer, I chose both. Another meal alone, but this time I had the Polish version of MTV. This featured mostly American videos, but with Polish text messages submitted by lovers. For all Płock lacked in a jazz scene, it made up for in excellent food and televisions.

You Must Always Pay for Breakfast, Even If You Already Did

Monday, November 26th, 2007

Weary-eyed from a night of not sleeping all that well and flipping through channels of Polish-language A-Team and a Wheel of Fortune episode with an obvious answer like “a jednak sie kieci”, I made my way to my breakfast.

Everything was going well as I plowed through bowls of cornflakes, a heaping plate of sausage, bread, cheese, hardboiled eggs, and something I had taken from the buffet line but on further consideration was deathly afraid to eat (jello with vegetables in it?). And then, a man who looked like a retired NFL player burst into the room. “Dzien dobry (good day),” he said, and I didn’t answer because my mouth was full, and then “fdas jaksldfj asdjkg asdjgkl” (or something else in Polish) and next thing I knew he wanted my key. I got the sense that my good times were coming to an end when he was joined by another figure of similar build, who nodded in agreement. Then he went on about how breakfast cost 20 zlotys. This should not have been a problem, because I already paid for it. I explained this to him, and he didn’t seem to believe me, so I ran upstairs. He must have ran after me, because he was already at my door when i was rummaging for my receipts. Anyway, after some more confusion, I brought the receipts down to the front desk, confirmed that I had paid, and that was that. No apologies or nothing, but at least my life was spared, so i guess i should be thankful? I may never really be sure.

Jazz in Northeastern Mazovia

Monday, November 26th, 2007
Still high from my discovery of the thriving and innovative jazz scene in Krakow, I was hoping to find at least a little of the same in downtown Płock (pronounced "Pwotsk"). I walked by the one reputed music club ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trains and the rascals who ride them

Monday, November 26th, 2007
Trains are technically part of a journey, not the destination, but even so they can be one of the high points of a trip. Or one of the low points. Polish trains are typically made up of closed compartments with ... [Continue reading this entry]