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Archive for February, 2006

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Ella y Yo

Thursday, February 23rd, 2006

Ella y Yo is the second best reggaeton song.

I´m dedicating this post to answering some questions, and responding to comments.

Jews aren´t under-represented in South America… but the continent could definitely use a lot more pseudo-jews. Too many of the jews here take the chosen people philosophy a bit too seriously.

I havent really had many problems with cockroaches, surprisingly. Ive been in some dirty places, and some hourly hotels, etc., but they were all fairly cockroach free. Nor have I had issues with rats!

I havent seen anybody from the FARC, they´re based more in the south of the country. In Santa Marta there are paramilitaries who are responsible for most of the country´s drug production. The government and the paramilitaries are in a state of relative peace at the moment. They look just like regular Colombian soldiers, which really iis kind of like the guy on Nick`s tatoo.

 Cocaine is all over the place here. In Santa Marta you could ask just about anybody on the street, and they could obtain it for you. I know this only because lots of the tourists in my hotel were sampling the local produce. Also, If you go on this trek to a place called the “lost city” in the mountains near Santa Marta, they take you on a tour of a cocaine factory.

In terms of bargaining and being ripped off, it is almost expected to argue about prices. People never get angry about it. In the end, though, it is always up to the person offering the service as to whether or not you can get it at a normal price. And after the fact, you cant argue; in taxis, for example, you ALWAYS have to agree on prices beforehand.

Colombia doesnt FEEL so dangerous… It is a dangerous country, and I wont try to deny it. Colombia does have an obscenely high murder rate. I havent seen anything so exciting (unfortunately?). In Bogota, just after dusk one night, a guy grabbed my neck and my shirt, and demanded money. I reacted quickly. Aware that he didnt have a knife or any weapon, I pulled away, screamed, and punched him. He let me go, and I ran to my hotel. That`s the worst thing that`s happened to me, but the only result was a ripped shirt. The mute laundry woman in Santa Marta sewed it back together for me.

 So I`m back in Barranquilla now, getting ready for Carnaval. Milena is about to arrive today as well! The only issue is that I would prefer not to have a girlfriend during Carnaval… I want it to be really crazy and wild. We`ll see how it goes. I`m damn excited.

 Rock On

Dan

Posted in Colombia | 1 Comment »

Procura

Monday, February 20th, 2006
Santa Marta is a fairly unattractive town, but it has a spectacular location on the edge of the sea. The city`s center is right next to the malecon, with a beach and views of big freight ships coming into the port. It is very hot in the day, and unpleasant to walk around for lack of shade. It is a nice place to relax, though, which is why i`ve been hanging around.
I arrived in Santa Marta last monday, and I spent tuesday at a nearby beach/resort area called the “Rodadero.” El Rodadero, from above, looks spectacular. It is a small harbor surrounded by mountains, with high-rise buildings spreading until the waters edge. The beach itself is average, and the venders annoying. I walked away from the central beach area to a place where I could feel safe leaving my clothes on the shore, and swam in peace.
On wednesday i joined some others from my hotel on a trip to Tayrona National Park, a really incredible place. On the walk in the beach, through the jungle, we saw monkeys in the trees, huge highways of leaf-cutter ants, and numerous lizards of all colors and sizes on the sides of the path. The beaches themselves are incredible, small bays lined by palm trees and surrounded by enormous rocks, all overshadowed by the enormous mountains of the Sierra Nevada. Some of the beaches are too dangerous to swim, and have turbulent surf that looks like a perpetual hurricane.
There is nothing to do in Tayrona park; there are few trails, so the activity of choice is to just hang out. The “hotel” (I slept in a hammock) feels like a hostel, full of foreigners, but there were some Colombians I met as well. My first night there I went to a meditation session with some Colombians and Argentinians. I had been drinking rum beforehand, however, and I was in no mood to meditate. Though I didnt enjoy the experience, I was still struck by the absurd seriousity with which the others were meditating. The next day I laughed quite a bit with some friends about it.
One day in the park was enough, so I headed back to Santa Marta on Friday. That evening I went out with an 18-year-old Colombian kid and these two crazy french guys. For some reason we had decided to leave Santa Marta for a bar full of foreigners in a small fishing village on one side of town. There was a cool dance floor in the center of the bar, and the french guys were dancing absolutely ridiculously the entire time. In any case, we ended up meeting some girls, and went with them to another bar off of the highway which is open all night. I talked with one a while, and afterwards we went together to the beach. We talked well into the morning, and I didn`t arrive in the hotel until 9 in the morning.
On Saturday afternoon I woke up feeling sick, and my stomach was aching. I slept all day. That night I decided to try eating some soup, and I vomited. Later that evening I felt better, and decided to go out. The girl from the night before, Milena, was waiting outside of the disco for me. It was a great club, full of people, with a cool, relaxed atmosphere, and cheap. I stayed with Milena all night. Her sister, who the night before had been with one of the french guys, decided that he was a bit too crazy and left the club with an Israeli. The four of us went to the beach for a while before going to bed.
Milena and I can`t stand the Israeli guy. He`s arrogant and boring. He told the girls that Colombian girls love Israeli guys, and that everywhere he goes girls look at him. He doesnt really ever smile, either.
Yesterday morning I was feeling fine, and I decided to eat some breakfast. I went with Milena, her sister, and the Israeli to a nearby beach for the day. That evening, I went out with them for a beer. The israeli is trying to steal Milena for a friend of his. Upon seeing her for the first time yesterday, he told her that his friend shaved his beard. When i went to the bathroom at one point, he asked Milena if she liked his friend, and more or less asked her why she would prefer to be with some gringo kid. She laughed at him.
I ate no lunch all day yesterday, and in the evening I had a hamburger. Once again, my stomach was aching all night, and I slept until 3:30 pm today. As it turns out, another traveler in my hotel, from Switzerland, has been feeling similarly. He was in Tayrona with me, so we are convinced that it has something to do with the food we ate there. The other day, he slept 20 hours straight. At the moment I`m feeling alright, but I haven`t eaten anything all day. I`ll sit tight, and hopefully feel a bit better tomorrow.
I have a problem understanding people from the coast. I was in a bus from Cartagena to Barranquilla, and I met a kid from a village near Barranquilla. We talked a lot, but I only understood about every 5th word he would say. I could get the idea of what he was trying to convey, and I would agree or make some comment back, but the whole process was frustrating. Last night I had a similar experience with a friend of a friend here in Santa Marta.
I have hit a milestone: Milena told me that I dance salsa well enough, which is incredible. I just realized the other day that in salsa, you have to stand on the balls of your feet… it also helps to count, 1-2-3, 2-2-3, 1-2-3, etc. I still cant spin, but at least I`ve now got an idea of the basics.
Something cool about Colombia is that i can actually tolerate the traditional music. In mexico, the traditional music is called Ranchera, and I can`t stand it for more than five minutes. Here they listen to Vallenato, and though it does get tiring, there are several Vallenatos that I like a lot.  I find the music generally far more interesting than Ranchera.
One more thing: South America is absolutely flooded by Israelis. I`ve met dozens of Israelis in my short time here, and I must say, they are by far the most obnoxious group of travelers I have ever met. The owner of my hotel, who is a friend of mine, was talking about it for ages last night. I have no problem with a single Israeli, or several of them, but when they travel in big groups and act like they own the world, then it gets a bit annoying.  
Thats about all for now folks,
Love,
Dan

Posted in Colombia | 4 Comments »

Hell Yeah

Thursday, February 9th, 2006
I`ve made it to the Caribbean again, on Colombia`s north coast. At the moment, I`m in Cartagena, certainly the most touristic city in the country. It is almost funny to talk about touristy places in Colombia; compared to its neighbors ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Colombia | 7 Comments »

La Vida es un Carnaval

Friday, February 3rd, 2006
Im liking the comments. So I´ve reached South America. Here´s a great big fucking middle finger to all you doubters who thought it would never happen. Yesterday I flew to Bogota, and it is a really cool place. San Jose, Costa Rica, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Posted in Colombia, Panama, Travel | 3 Comments »